I changed timing belt/water pump. I did not remove the cam sprockets for this job. Last belt/pump change at 112,000 (by dealer, pre-purchase).
Prior to starting, there was a substantial noise coming from the vicinity of the water pump and accessories, and I could not diagnose the source of the noise. Due to the mileage, I decided to do the belt/pump change and figured I'd come across the source of the noise in the course of the job.
After removing the accessory belts, I started the engine as a check to see if the noise was still present, to check if it was an accessory. The noise was still present.
After removing the pulley's and tensioner and water pump, none of them appear to have failed enough to make the noise reported above, but who knows, at high speed one of them could have been the culprit.
After belt install, I rotated crank by hand 2 times to check for interference. Tried with starter, no start. I did not keep trying.
When I re-inspected crank and cam timing marks again, I discovered that the rear cam had moved counter-clockwise (relative to facing the engine) from when I took the old belt off, so the belt was initially installed out of time. To be more specific, the crank and front cam were in proper alignment, the rear cam was off counter clockwise 60-80*) I have subsequently learned that that cam was not in a resting "unsprung" position in the aligned TDC state. [Neither of the two video tutorials I consulted mentioned this, but I have since watched others that warned about it]
I disassembled, re-set the tensioner, then re-installed the belt with both cam sprockets in proper alignment with the crankshaft. Again, I turned crank times by hand. Then I tried to start the car, and still no start.
- I have verified spark at the front left plug.
- Ground straps did not need to be removed.
- I have made sure there is no crud where the crank sensor is.
- I smell fuel, that's the extent of my fuel check.
- There are no fault codes in my reader.
The engine turns over with the starter normally, nothing seems odd. Hand turning still encounters compression.
It does not even hint of wanting to start.
I realize it is possible I bent one of more valves on the rear cylinder bank with the initial install. I don't think so because I did a hand crank 2x with no resistance (except compression). However, I assume that even if one bank has valve-train issues, the car should still try to start, and if there where issues, it would show up in other symptoms.
Q1: Is this a correct assumption?
Q2: What diagnostics can I do to track down to figure out what's preventing the car from starting?
Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:52 AM