Timing marks are on the flex plate at the rear of the engine. If it is not already missing, there is a black foam rubber plug to remove so you can see the marks. That plug is strictly to reduce noise, so it is no big deal if it is missing.
If distributor timing was correct with the old timing belt, it is correct now. It is run by an intermediate shaft/balance shaft. If that was not set correctly with the new belt, you would have a miserable engine vibration. The better suspect that fits exactly the stalling symptoms you described is a common problem after the battery was disconnected. You need to meet the driving conditions for "minimum throttle" to be relearned by the Engine Computer before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. Until that is done, the engine may not start and run unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4", you will not get the nice idle flare-up to 1,500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall at stop signs. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.
This drawing shows how the timing marks will look when you are standing next to the left front tire, looking over to the transmission's bell housing, right near the top, rear of the engine.
Saturday, September 1st, 2018 AT 9:26 PM