After replacing timing belt one cylinder stops working/error codes P1336 and P1337

Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 PEUGEOT 307
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
Error code shown P1336 and P1337.

Already changed ignition coil, injectors, crankshaft sensor. I still do not what the problem is.

This happened right after changing the timing belt, but every mechanics says the timing belt is okay.

Help!
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Thursday, September 13th, 2018 AT 3:00 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
These are crankshaft sensor wiring issues please have them check the sensor wiring connector of corrosion or damage. Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, September 17th, 2018 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Yeah, that sounds so close to the solution. I hope it it what it is. I am an electronics engineer. I will check it myself. The mechanics from Chile sucks. One more thing I recently changed the crankshaft sensor, and now I was able to go to more rpm's with no issue, but still it has the same problem after 3,500 rpm's I used to lose a cylinder.
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Monday, September 17th, 2018 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Tomorrow I will check the wiring and let you know. Thank for helping me out. I have been having these issue for a year. It is one year of frustration. It sucks. I hope best for tomorrow. Figure crossed.

Thank you again!
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Monday, September 17th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Sounds good, try to test the continuity between the sensor and the PCM. I know you are an electronics engineer by this guide might help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, September 18th, 2018 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Hi Ken,

You have been really helpful in every step. I read all the instructions and followed it. The diagnosis is as below

1) I checked the wiring right till the connector that goes to the ECU.
2) Even the wiring was okay. I replaced it with a new one and now it has new wiring.
3) I checked the output voltage of the sensor which is of course an AC signal and it reaches till 5 volts or above corresponding to the acceleration. This voltage reached until the connector it the ecu without any issue.
4) I tested the car, still it has absolutely the same issue as before. One of the cylinder of the engine stops suddenly as soon as I go above 2,500 RPM's. Below 2,500 RPM's I have no problems whatsoever.
5) So when the cylinders stop the engine starts shaking, still running, but loosing the power.
6) After that to get it normal, I have to turn off the car completely and restart it, and the everything works just fine.
7) Again if I go above 2,500 rpm's, one cylinder stops.
8) When I am on a highway and my car is on the down steep, of course due to gravitational force it goes by itself, and in that scenario if I do not accelerate and the car goes itself above 2,500 RPM's then at that time no cylinders misfires/stops.
9) At the same time when I am on a down steep and the car is above 2,500 RPM's by itself and if I accelerate little bit then one cylinder stops.
10) Since I have been having this issue since one year and no mechanic has been able to fix it, I have started my own diagnosis. So I have learnt a trick to avoid this. What I do is I just accelerate but not in an constant manner, so to say like ( imagine my foot is on the pedal) zuuuuuuuu.(One second break) zuuuuuuuu.(One second break). Zuuuuuu. And so on. In this way the car does not stop but my foot pains so much after an hour. Of course that is not the solution.

I do not know Ken. This is all I could give you the information. I am frustrated like crazy.

Please please please help me.

Thank you!

Regards.
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Tuesday, September 18th, 2018 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
All of this started after the job correct? Lets check the wiring harness grounds it sounds like one of them is loose or corroded. Follow the harness to see where it grounds to the engine near the front where they were working. Let me know, you might need to get under the car to see everything.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2018 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Hi Ken,

You mean to say I should follow all the grounds that car has. Or only one that has relation with crankshaft sensor. I have a question:

1) Do you think it can also be because of the ECU?
2) Do you think it can be the Cambelt ( that also I changed right before this all started)?

If you above question's answer are no then I will stop worrying about Cambelt and ECU.

Thanks Again Ken,

Please walk me out of this messy problem.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2018 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
No problem, if all the problems started when the belt was changed the belt is where I would look first. If the shop that did the work says it is okay take it to a different shop. Make sure the marks are lined up.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 3:53 PM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Hi Ken. I am replying quite late, but did the revision of timing belt with the other mechanic and according to him the timing belt was not installed properly. So he did install it properly and now I still have the same issue. After 2,500 rpm, the cylinder stops working. I do not know what to do.

Can you please help me?
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Saturday, November 10th, 2018 AT 8:46 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Please remove the valve cover and look for a broken valve spring using a flash light. This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, November 10th, 2018 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Sure Ken, I will do it. As I have mentioned before, that this problem when the cylinder stops working after 2,500 rpm's, goes back to work normally after I turn off the engine completely and restart the car. So do you still think it can be the spring in the valve? Please do not think that I am questioning you. I just have this minor doubt. Because I think that if the spring is compromised then the problem should not be associated with restarting the engine. Please help.

Cheers.
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Saturday, November 10th, 2018 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Yep, that would not be a valve spring sounds more like the PCM is going bad since it can be reset.
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Monday, November 12th, 2018 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Yes I would say the same. What would say about the multi-functional injection relay? Do you think it can be the culprit. Today I will put the signal from crankshaft sensor on oscilloscope to study it.

Regards
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Monday, November 12th, 2018 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
I do not think it is the relay because it would affect all of them. It sounds like an injector driver is going out inside the PCM.
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Monday, November 12th, 2018 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Do you know how to to identify an injection driver? What is the name of the IC. I can replace it. I am an electronics engineer. Should be okay for me.
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Monday, November 12th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • EXPERT
Coming in late in the game here. What were the results of your testing with the scope? Can you post a picture or video of the scope trace while revving the engine up to 2500+? Also, we would not have the schematics of the ECU to be able to identify the driver transistors for the injectors in the ECU. And also can you confirm that you are still receiving those same codes (P1336 and P1337). The next step in my mind would be to probe each of the injector signals coming from the ECU. If you have a four channel scope you could do them all at once. I would like to see a scope trace of that as well if you are able.
Jon
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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 7:35 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
Hello there, yes I can send you the video. We have tested with a multi-meter at the output of each injector so what happens is after 2,500 rpm's, one of the injectors gets 12 volts on both terminal making potential difference of 0 volts and hence the injector stops working. All is see that the culprit is the ECU.
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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 8:02 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • EXPERT
Also just thinking here, You mentioned that you have already replaced the injectors so I am pretty confident that the injectors themselves are in good shape. I would feel better if we could ring out the harness that connects them to the ECU.

These are all Low-Side Drivers so, on the two pin connector with Key On Engine Off, you should see 12 volts on one of the pins and 0 on the other. The ECU has the power transistors that will sink the injector current to ground. Check that you have a solid 12 volts to one pin on each of the injector connectors and then test that each shows infinite resistance to ground on the other pin. Let us know what you find.

A scope trace would be really nice to see for this and it sounds like you have the capability to do so! That is exciting! The waveform you are looking for is a bit of an inverted square wave where you start at system voltage 12vdc nominal, then when the driver reaches saturation the voltage will drop as it sinks to ground. Then, when the driver is turned off, there will be a spike as the pintle in the fuel injector closes. This can vary depending on the impedance of the injector coils, and the type of clamping in the circuit. The width of the "injector-on" time (or duty-cycle) will change based on RPM and engine load. This is why I think this would be an excellent diagnostic tool for your problem.

Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this quickly for you.

Ciao
Jon
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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 8:13 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • EXPERT
Okay, the sensor waveform looks just fine. That is what I would expect to see. See my last post =)
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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 8:14 AM
Tiny
SANNKYNM
  • MEMBER
The waveform I have sent is from the output of crankshaft sensor. Which looks okay and as I accelerate, I see that the frequency increases means to day that the wave form has the same amplitude but the waveform squises.( Obviously). If you take a look at the video I do see some interference in the waveform, I was expecting it to be pure. Anyways, the wire harness to the injector looks okay. And I will put the oscilloscope on the output of the injectors as you asked me to do. Even though the result that we got from multi-meter was that the injector gets 12 volts on both terminal and hence it stops working, which looks like the ECU injection drive Bosch 30566 is the one which can make this happen. What do you say?
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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 8:29 AM

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