Power steering not working

Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER CONCORDE
  • 3.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 154,000 MILES
Hi,

I appreciate all the Expert help you guys have given me!
I have no power steering. Very hard to turn steering wheel. So I removed all power steering fluid from reservoir. Added 2 bottles 12oz of Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak. This helped make steering easier to turn for a few weeks but now it is back to no power steering. I also replaced the gaskets on the end of inner Tie Rod at Steering Gear Assembly. Because they were shot. As you can see in photo, which I uploaded for my last question, I think I cross threaded driver's side bolt for inner Tie rod. I don't like the look of bolt and plate; not seated like passengers side bolt and plate. But steering wheel was hard to turn before I changed tie rod gaskets. So, I don't know if cross threaded bolt is a factor now. Could problem be power steering pump?Or Steering Gear Assembly bad?And how would I determine if one or both are bad? Replace power steering pump first?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM

34 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good afternoon,

Unfortunately, you just caused a whole lot more issues with adding that stop leak. That stuff is no good at all and ruins the seals in the rack and the pump.

At this point, you need to replace the pump and the rack itself. The seals in the pump are most likely damaged as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-power-steering-pump

With the replacement rack, you will need new bolts for the tie rod ends. Fastenall will carry them for you as they are special. Take one of them with you to match up.

Once you get the new rack and pump installed, then have it aligned to be sure the front end is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-fluid-flush

Roy

Pump

REMOVE
1. Remove the battery ground cable from the ground stud on the shock tower. Then correctly isolate the ground cable by installing the cable isolator on the ground stud.

NOTE: The following step should be done to prevent excessive spilling of power steering fluid when the power steering fluid lines are removed from the power steering pump.

2. Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.
3. Raise vehicle.

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4. Remove the power steering fluid supply hose from the supply fitting on the power steering pump.
5. Let power steering fluid drain from the power steering fluid reservoir and power steering pump.
6. Install a cap on the open nipple of the power steering fluid reservoir to prevent power steering fluid from spilling when removing the power steering pump.

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7. Remove the power steering fluid pressure hose from the pressure fitting on the power steering pump.
8. Let remaining power steering fluid drain from the power steering pump.
9. Remove the wiring harness connector from the power steering pressure switch located on the side of the power steering pump.

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10. Loosen the lock-nut on the front of the pulley for the serpentine drive belt tensioner.
11. Using the adjustment bolt remove the tension from the drive belt for the power steering pump.
12. Remove the drive belt from the power steering pump pulley.

NOTE: Access for the power steering pump mounting bolts is through the holes in the face of the power steering Pump pulley.

13. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the power steering pump to the power steering pump mounting bracket.

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14. Remove the power steering pump from the engine. The power steering pump and pulley are removed as an assembly from the engine. The power steering pump is removed from the bottom of the engine between the radiator lower support and the cradle.
15. Transfer the required parts from the removed power steering pump, to the replacement power steering pump.

INSTALL
1. Install the power steering pump back in the mounting bracket using the reverse sequence of its removal.
2. Loosely install all 3 bolts mounting the power steering pump to the mounting bracket.
3. Tighten the power steering pump mounting bolts to a torque of 28 Nm (260 inch lbs.).
4. Install the drive belt on the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Engine, for required installation and tensioning procedure for the particular engine being serviced.
5. Securely tighten the lock-nut on the pulley of the drive belt tensioner.
6. Install the wiring harness connector on the power steering pressure switch.
7. Install the power steering pressure hose on the pressure fitting of the power steering pump. Tighten the power steering fluid pressure hose fitting to a torque of 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the power steering fluid supply hose onto the supply fitting on power steering pump. When installing the hose clamp on the power steering fluid return hose be sure the clamp is installed past the upset bead on the nipple of the power steering fluid reservoir.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Connect the battery ground cable onto the ground stud located on the strut tower.

CAUTION: Do not use automatic transmission fluid in this vehicles power steering system. Only use Mopar (R), Power Steering Fluid, or equivalent.

11. Fill the power steering pump reservoir to correct fluid level.
12. Start engine and turn steering wheel several times from stop to stop to bleed air from fluid in system. Stop engine, check fluid level, and inspect system for leaks. See Checking Fluid Level.

Rack

1. Remove the battery ground cable from the ground stud on the shock tower. Then correctly isolate the ground cable by installing the cable isolator on the ground stud.
2. Position the front tires of the vehicle so that they are facing straight ahead.
3. Raise the vehicle on a frame contact type hoist until the front tires of the vehicle are just off the floor.

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4. Remove caps from both wiper arms at the attachment to the pivots to expose the wiper arm attaching nut. Remove the nut attaching each wiper arm to its pivot
5. Remove the wiper arms from the pivots. Wiper arms are removed from the pivots by rocking them back and force on the pivots until they can be pulled off the pivots.

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6. Remove the wiper module cover and cowl cover from the vehicle.

Reinforcement Attachment To Vehicle
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7. Remove the 8 bolts, attaching the reinforcement to the strut towers and the 1 bolt attaching the wiper module to the reinforcement. Remove the reinforcement from the vehicle.

In-Line Resonator And Air Inlet Hose
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8. Remove the in-line resonator and inlet hose from the throttle body and air let hose coming from the lid of the air cleaner housing.

NOTE: When locking the steering wheel, the front tires of the vehicle are to be facing straight ahead.

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9. Using a steering wheel clamp, lock the steering wheel from rotating.

CAUTION: Before removing the steering column coupler from the intermediated steering shaft be sure the steering wheel is locked from rotating. If the steering wheel is allowed to rotate freely after it is disconnected from the intermediated shaft, the clockspring will be damaged and will need to be replaced.

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10. Remove the retaining pin and the coupler bolt from the steering column coupler. Separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering column coupler.

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11. Bend back the retaining tabs on the mounting plate for the tie rod to steering gear mounting bolts.

Tie Rod To Steering Gear Attaching Bolts
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12. Remove the bolts, mounting plate and washers attaching the tie rods to the steering gear. Lay the tie rods on top of the trans-axle bell housing.

NOTE: The following step should be done to prevent excessive spilling of power steering fluid when the power steering fluid lines are removed from the steering gear.

13. Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.

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14. Remove the power steering fluid pressure hose and return hose from the steering gear.

Wiring Harness Connection To Solenoid
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15. If the steering gear being removed from the vehicle is a speed proportional steering gear, remove the wiring harness connector from the solenoid on the steering gear.

Master Cylinder To Vacuum Booster Mounting
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16. Remove the 2 nuts mounting the master cylinder to the vacuum booster.
17. Remove the master cylinder with the brake tubes connected, from the vacuum booster. Carefully position the master cylinder in an upright position on the left side valve cover of the engine.
18. Remove the vacuum supply hose to the vacuum booster at the check valve in the vacuum booster. Position the vacuum hose out of the way.

Steering Gear Attachment To Cross-member (Left Side)
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19. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the left side of the steering gear to the cross-member.

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20. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the steering gears right side mounting bracket to the cross-member.

Steering Gear Mounting Bracket
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NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the 2 mounting bolts attaching the right mounting bracket to the steering gear in order to clear the air conditioning lines.

21. Slide steering gear and intermediate shaft forward into the engine compartment to allow access to the roll pin retaining the intermediate shaft flex coupler to the steering gear shaft.

Steering Coupler Roll Pin Removal
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22. Using roll pin remover, Special Tool 6831A, remove roll pin from flex joint of intermediate shaft. Roll pin is removed from coupler using following procedure. Remove knurled nut from small end of removal tool. Insert small end of removal tool through center of roll pin and then install and hand tighten knurled nut. Position sleeve of removal tool on flex joint as shown. Holding threaded shaft of tool from turning tighten nut pulling roll pin out of flex joint.
23. Separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
24. Raise vehicle.
25. Remove the right front tire/wheel.

Tie Rod End Attachment To Strut
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26. Remove the nut attaching the tie rod end to the steering arm on the right strut.

Removing Outer Tie Rod From Steering Arm
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27. Remove the tie rod end from the steering arm of the strut using Puller, Special Tool C-3894-A, or equivalent.
28. Remove the tie rod from the vehicle.

Required Toe Position
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NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a 2.7 liter engine, rotate the front of the left front tire/wheel as far outward as possible. This is necessary to have the required clearance to allow the removal of the steering gear from a vehicle with this engine application.

29. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle using the following steps.

Steering Gear Through Tie Rod Hole
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a. Slide the end of the steering gear through the tie rod hole in the right side inner fender. Steering gear needs to be slid through tie rod hole until about half of the steering gear is through the hole.

Steering Gear Positioned For Removal
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b. Lift the left end of the steering gear upward, with the steering gear positioned as shown, between the back of the engine and the front of the cowl.
c. To remove the steering gear from the vehicle, pull the steering gear toward the passenger side of the vehicle out from between the cowl and the engine.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Hi,

That is a bummer. I thought Lucas is good stuff. My ignorance.
So if the Steering Gear/Rack and Pinion unit was good, it's history now.
Okay, I got it.
What do you think of the outer tie rod end where I replaced the bushings and bolts? See image in original question.
Do you see what I mean about driver's side bolt looking crooked?
Although if I am replacing Rack and Pinion Assembly, it doesn't really matter, so.
Thanks!
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 1:02 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
The inner bushings look good but you did strip the hole in the rack.

While you are doing this repair, replace the outer tie rods at the tire. The one with the new bushings are the inner tie rods.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
You're right. I meant inner.
Okay, I will replace both outer while I'm at it. Then front end alignment, as you said.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Correct.

Keep me updated.

Roy
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
I went online looking for re-manufactured rack and steering gear.
I did get the Mopar #. 5003933AA.
I have a couple questions.
I see some on Amazon and eBay.
But - some gears descriptions mention.
With Speed Proportional Steering or without. I don't know what I have and dealer parts has no idea.
Maybe I need to remove old gear and check #?
Also, some gears description mentions:
with sensor port?
And: without pressure switch mounted in pinion tower?
Are Sensor and Pressure Switch the same thing?
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Can you give me the VIN number?

Roy
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
2C3HD46J6WH200470.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, your car had the SBA steering gear code which is stock.

I attached the options for that rack from rock auto.

Roy
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Okay,

I forgot about Rock Auto. So SBA is standard.I don't need to concern myself with
needing Speed Proportional Steering (SBC). I don't have that, correct?
Also I will change all hoses and replace reservoir.
And install an in line filter. Sound good?
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
I would install the in line filter, yes.

Good idea to change the hoses.

I really like rock auto.

All sounds good.

Roy
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
I see 2 assembles on Amazon. Both are "Detroit Axle" brand.
Free shipping.
1 is $124.95 and description lists:
No sensor and notes-
w/o pressure switch mounted in pinion tower.
Couldn't I use sensor from original?
The other costs $349.95 and is listed:
W/Sensor Port.
Plus it comes with 2 inner Tie rod ends.
That is quite a price difference.
I guess I need to find out if the cheaper unit w/o pressure switch, will work.
I will call Detroit Axle tomorrow.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Image of assembly.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Image of more expensive assembly.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, do you have the sensor in your old unit? If you do, you need the one with the sensor mounting.

Roy
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:44 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Will remove old unit because I do not know the answer to you question.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Okay, I would order the correct one when you have the old unit out and you can set them side by side.

Roy
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Flying blind.
I thought both had sensor ports, but higher priced unit came with sensor. Okay, I will see tomorrow.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Keep me updated.

Roy
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 4:55 PM
Tiny
GREGORY MICHAEL YATES
  • MEMBER
Hi Roy,
I am removing original R & P Gear.
I noticed a lot of power steering fluid around driver's side of gear.
I read that I need a tool (6831A), for roll pin removal on steering coupler.
This tool costs around $80.00 from Freedomracing.
I read that I can try a pin punch and hammer.
I see other roll pin removers out there but labeled as steering pivot pin remover, etc.
These are way cheaper.
Might these work?
Here are some images.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 4:06 PM

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