After replacing inner and outer tie rods on both sides the wheel is still wobbles back and forth

Tiny
REBEKKD
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 DODGE JOURNEY
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 161,916 MILES
My vehicle had bad inner and outer tie rods on both sides, so I replaced it and got a wheel alignment done. However, the wheel still wobbles back and forth when it's jacked up in the air. Could this be an issue what is the strut?
Sunday, January 26th, 2020 AT 9:25 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,972 POSTS
It would much more likely be a bad hub bearing or a bad lower ball joint. The strut would need to be severely damaged for it to cause motion that you can see or feel that way.
The first pic is the hub, there are two bearings inside it, if either one fails the wheel can wobble around in all directions. Here is a video showing how to tell which part is likely at fault. The OBD scan won't do anything for your vehicle though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvKWGjmPKoc

Replacement isn't that hard unless you live in an area where they use salt on the roads and you get rust. Then replacement can require a lot of heating, beating and swearing!
Replacement requires you jack it up and secure it so the car cannot fall or move. Remove the tire. Now have someone step on the brakes and use a socket and long bar to remove the axle nut from the center. Next compress the brake caliper enough to loosen the pads, then remove the caliper and the mounting bracket from the steering knuckle. Hang them out of the way. Remove the brake rotor. If you live in the rust belt this is where the fun starts as the rotor can rust weld to the hub! Now with the rotor off look at the rear of the knuckle as shown in the picture, those 4 bolts need to be removed. I like to use a heavy wire brush to scrub any rust off the tips of them where you can see them coming through the hub. Then some lubricant or penetrate to help them come free. Push the axle in to get the outer CV joint back enough to clear the bolts. With the bolts out the hub can be removed. In the rust belt this can be tough as it will rust in place. This video is almost identical to replacing your front bearings. Both sides are pretty much the same. When he starts with the air hammer at about 5 minutes, there is only rust holding that bearing in!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6_WIWVn5xs
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Monday, January 27th, 2020 AT 4:56 AM

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