Stalling while driving (especially after red lights)

Tiny
MITT102486
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Car listed above is the GS model.
Body: 170,000
Motor: 70,000

4 months ago I noticed it was kinda shy about shifting when it reached 3,500 rpm's. I let off the gas and it would shift.

2 months ago I got gas and then the next day my car had a considerably hard time shifting at 3,000 and letting off gas wasn’t really helping. Within 30 minutes it was slowly dying. It would go past 2,000 then 1,500 then it would shut off.

I got the gas station inspected and they were fine. Wasn’t the gas. However within the week I get a call from the mechanic saying he couldn’t reproduce the issue. So I drove it home.

The next day I drove to college and it was good. On the way home it start to not shift past 3,000 again and my heart sank. It kept going for a few miles but living in Atlanta means red lights everywhere. Yea, the red light gave my car a chance to break down. I was barely even pushing the accelerator and it still shut off.

I restarted it several times and it idles fine. But as soon as I try to accelerate it has a terrible exhaust noise like a cat is clogged. I loosened the exhaust system (car is loud and annoying now). The car still has issues. Probably not the catalytic converter then.

I let the car run and removed the MAF sensor and the car died. Not the MAF sensor then.

I left it at a mechanic for a total of three weeks and he couldn’t figure out what was wrong. When it sits for awhile it seems to recover. However the more times it does it and recovers, the faster it dies next time.

Tl;dr car shuts off at red light. No like accelerate. Recovers for mechanic. I take home for a bit and it dies on me.
Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
MITT102486
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Also, the o2 sensor in bank 2 are new from AutoZone. I also removed bank 1 sensor 2 to let air flow to see if it’s the catalytic converter. It doesn’t appear to be.
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,254 POSTS
Hi,

Since the codes indicate lean or low voltage from the sensors, have you checked to make sure the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs?

If that hasn't been checked, that is where I would start. Here is a link that shows in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions and specs specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions. Additionally, it provides diagnostics for different situations.

___________________

2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.4L (4G69)
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
The content of this article and images reflects the changes identified in TSB - 10-13-008.

FUEL PRESSURE TEST

Required Special Tools:
- MB991958: Scan tool (MUT-III Sub Assembly)
- MB991824: V.C.I.
- MB991827: USB Cable
- MB991910: Main Harness A
- MB991637: Fuel Pressure Gauge Set
- MB992001: Hose Adaptor
- MB992049: Quick Connector
- MD998707: Test Device

1. Release residual pressure from the fuel line to prevent fuel spray.

WARNING: TO PREVENT A FIRE, COVER THE HOSE CONNECTION WITH SHOP TOWELS TO PREVENT SPLASHING OF FUEL THAT COULD BE CAUSED BY SOME RESIDUAL PRESSURE IN THE FUEL PIPE LINE.

pic 1

2. Disconnect the fuel high-pressure hose at the fuel rail side.

3. Assemble the special tool MD998707 of special tool as shown in figure.

NOTE: The special tool MB992076 (injector test set) is compatible with the special tool MB998706 (injector test set).

In case of vehicle using (square) quick connector

W/ Square Quick Connector

pic 2

(1) Remove the injector installation adapter from the hose. Remove another hose together with the adapter and remove the adapter from the remaining hose.
(2) Install the special tool MB992049 (quick connector) and the special tool MB992001 (hose adapter) to the hose without the adapter.
(3) Remove the nipple of the bolt of the special tool MD998709 (hose adapter).
(4) Install the special tool prepared in the procedure (3) to the nipple that was removed together with hose in the procedure (1).

In case of vehicle using (round) quick connector

W/ Round Quick Connector

pic 3

(1) Remove the injector installation adapter from the hose. Remove another hose together with the adapter and remove the adapter from the remaining hose.
(2) Install the special tool MB991990 (quick connector) and the special tool MB992001 (hose adapter) to the hose without the adapter.
(3) Remove the nipple of the bolt of the special tool MD998709 (hose adapter).
(4) Install the special tool prepared in the procedure (3) to the nipple that was removed together with hose in the procedure (1).

4. Install the special tool assembled in step 3 between the fuel rail and the fuel high-pressure hose.

[When using the fuel pressure gauge]

pic 4

1. Via a suitable O-ring or gasket, install the fuel pressure gauge to the special tool that has already assembled as described.
2. Install the assembled fuel pressure measurement tools between the fuel rail and fuel high-pressure hose.

pic 5

1. Via a gasket, install the special tool MB991637 (fuel pressure gauge set) into the special tool that has already assembled as described.
2. Install the assembled fuel pressure measurement tools between the fuel rail and fuel high-pressure hose.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to scan tool MB991958, always turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position before connecting or disconnecting scan tool MB991958.

pic 6

7. Connect scan tool MB991958 to the data link connector.
8. Use Actuator test 9 to drive the fuel pump. Check that there is no fuel leaking from any section when the fuel pump is operating.
9. Stop the fuel pump.
10. Start the engine and run at idle.
11. Measure fuel pressure while the engine is running at idle.

Standard value: Approximately 324 kPa (47 psi) at curb idle

12. Check to see that fuel pressure at idle does not drop even after the engine has been revved several times.
13. If any of fuel pressure measured in steps 11 to 12 is out of specification, troubleshoot and repair according to the table below.

pic 7

14. Stop the engine and observe fuel pressure gauge reading. It is normal if the reading does not drop within two minutes. If it does, observe the rate of drop and troubleshoot and repair according to the table below. Start, then stop the engine.
1. Squeeze the fuel supply line closed to confirm leak-down occurs from defective fuel pump check valve.
2. If pressure continues to drop with both fuel lines squeezed closed, injector(s) are leaking.

pic 8

15. Release residual pressure from the fuel pipe line.

WARNING: COVER THE HOSE CONNECTION WITH SHOP TOWELS TO PREVENT SPLASH OF FUEL THAT COULD BE CAUSED BY SOME RESIDUAL PRESSURE IN THE FUEL PIPE LINE.

16. Remove the fuel pressure gauge and special tool from the delivery rail.
17. Fit the fuel high-pressure hose to the delivery pipe.
18. Check for fuel leaks.
1. Use scan tool MB991958 to operate the fuel pump.
2. Check the fuel line for leaks and repair as needed.

19. Disconnect scan tool MB991958.

___________________________________

Let me know what you find. Also, let me know if it starts right back up each time this happens.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
MITT102486
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you for the informative reply. But, I don’t understand why the car would be fine after sitting for several hours. Why would it idle fine? And why would that cause a gradual decrease of power until it shuts off and I have to wait to drive it anywhere?
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Sunday, May 17th, 2020 AT 10:43 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,254 POSTS
Hi,

My theory is this: Since you have a lean mixture, fuel pressure may be low to start. As the pump runs longer, it may be getting weaker as time passes causing what you described. As far as a good idle, that is when the least amount of fuel is required.

Please understand, this is a theory at this point. When it cools off again, it may begin working again. That is why I suggested checking pressure. I feel it is a good starting point.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
MITT102486
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  • 5 POSTS
I can’t seem to safely assume which hose is the correct fuel hose valve to test. The 2006 Eclipse GS seems to have little exact information online. Can you circle it on a picture of someone’s GS bay? It also appears I’ll need to buy a gauge since it’s for fuel.
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 11:52 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,254 POSTS
Hi,

The high pressure hose will be at the end of the fuel rail. I attached a picture. Let me know if it helps.

Joe
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
MITT102486
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  • 5 POSTS
Yea, I just realized that there’s not a built in gauge attachment. I’ll have to do a t joint fuel pressure test won’t I?
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,254 POSTS
Yes. They didn't provide a schrader valve. You actually will be putting a T in the fuel line so you can attach to it. I wish there was an easier way.

Joe
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 8:05 PM

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