Stalled while driving, then won't start.

Tiny
DONAMO153
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 DODGE AVENGER
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 264,000 MILES
The Avenger stalled at 50 mph and I coasted to a parking lot. The ABS light came up. The car started 2 minutes later and got me the 1 more mile home, but then would not start again. At home I checked the codes and there were no codes. Since the ABS light came up, I checked the brake fluid level. It was a little low and the brakes were a bit spongy, so I jackstanded the car and bled the brakes along with filling the reservoir. After that there was no change in starting, except that it would start, but only by holding the key in start position. When I let go of the key the engine would stall. I checked the fuel pump and got fuel at the rail connection.

I then pulled out the starter and checked it and it was bad, so I replaced it. The key again had to be held but the engine stalled when releasing the key. After a few times of trying, the key would no longer start the starter or the engine. I rigged a jumper wire to the selenoid and the starter would work, but the engine would not start. I tested the start wire with a multitester and as soon as I put the key in, the wire measured a full 13 volts from all start positions, even the off position.

I checked the fuses and found 5 that would not light up my light probe: #23) 15amp Auto Shutdown relay feed 3, #25 10amp Ignition run - heated mirrors if equipped, #26 15amp Auto Shutdown relay feed 2, #28 10amp Ignition run - occupant Classification Module (OCM)/Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), and #32 30amp Auto Shutdown Relay feed 1.

I checked all 4 relays and found them in working order, but the plugin strip had a female terminal (the one on the far passenger side) that was hot in the 85 and 86 holes, not on the 85 and 30 holes. I lifted the terminal block and found those lead wires to have 13 volts on the 85 and 86 positions. Isn't that odd? The wires seem normal and not charred or corroded.

I took apart the dash to get the key switch out and replaced the module on the back of the switch, but no change.

At this point I'm at my whits end!
Monday, September 22nd, 2025 AT 12:36 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,138 POSTS
Yep, everything you have described is pointing to a bad TIPM including the ABS light. These have a high failure rate but are easy to replace, you might be able to help confirm the issue by doing a CAN scan. This video can help

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Here is the location of the TIPM so you can swap it out which should fix it. Thank you for the complete description, it helps. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes
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Monday, September 22nd, 2025 AT 6:37 PM

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