Setting the distributor

Tiny
1WARPIG1
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 DODGE RAM
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
Do you find TDC and then set distributor to number one or do you Go to TDC and then advance to V8 mark and set distributor number one?
Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 7:13 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,175 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Position the crankshaft pulley at TDC and then install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the number one spark plug wire in the cap.

Here are the distributor removal and replacement procedures specific directions for your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

_____________________________

PROCEDURES
REMOVAL

CAUTION: Base ignition timing is not adjustable on any engine. Distributors do not have built in centrifugal or vacuum assisted advance. Base ignition timing and timing advance are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Because a conventional timing light can not be used to adjust distributor position after installation, note position of distributor before removal.

1. Remove air cleaner assembly.
2. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
3. Remove distributor cap from distributor (two screws).
4. Mark the position of distributor housing in relationship to engine or dash panel. This is done to aid in installation.
5. Before distributor is removed, the number one cylinder must be brought to the Top Dead Center (TDC) firing position.
6. Attach a socket to the Crankshaft Vibration Damper mounting bolt.

Fig.18 Damper-To-Cover Alignment Marks - Typical

Picture 1

7. Slowly rotate engine clockwise, as viewed from front, until indicating mark on crankshaft vibration damper is aligned to 0 degree (TDC) mark on timing chain cover.

Fig.19 Rotor Alignment Mark

Picture 2

8. The distributor rotor should now be aligned to the CYL. NO.1 alignment mark (stamped) into the camshaft position sensor. If not, rotate the crankshaft through another complete 360 degree turn. Note the position of the number one cylinder spark plug cable (on the cap) in relation to rotor. Rotor should now be aligned to this position.
9. Disconnect camshaft position sensor wiring harness from main engine wiring harness.
10. Remove distributor rotor from distributor shaft.

Fig.20 Distributor Holddown Clamp

Picture 3

11. Remove distributor holddown clamp bolt and clamp. Remove distributor from vehicle.

CAUTION: Do not crank engine with distributor removed. Distributor/crankshaft relationship will be lost.

INSTALLATION
If engine has been cranked while distributor is removed, establish the relationship between distributor shaft and number one piston position as follows:

Rotate crankshaft in a clockwise direction, as viewed from front, until number one cylinder piston is at top of compression stroke (compression should be felt on finger with number one spark plug removed). Then continue to slowly rotate engine clockwise until indicating mark is aligned to 0 degree (TDC) mark on timing chain cover.

1. Clean top of cylinder block for a good seal between distributor base and block.
2. Lightly oil the rubber O-ring seal on the distributor housing.
3. Install rotor to distributor shaft.
4. Position distributor into engine to its original position. Engage tongue of distributor shaft with slot in distributor oil pump drive gear. Position rotor to the number one spark plug cable position.
5. Install distributor holddown clamp and clamp bolt. Do not tighten bolt at this time.
6. Rotate the distributor housing until rotor is aligned to CYL. NO.1 alignment mark on the camshaft position sensor.
7. Tighten clamp holddown bolt to 22.5 Nm (200 in. Lbs.) Torque.
8. Connect camshaft position sensor wiring harness to main engine harness.
9. Install distributor cap. Tighten mounting screws.
10. Refer to the following, Checking Distributor Position.

Checking Distributor Position
To verify correct distributor rotational position, the DRB scan tool must be used.

WARNING: WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING TEST, THE ENGINE WILL BE RUNNING. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STAND IN LINE WITH THE FAN BLADES OR FAN BELT. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.

1. Connect DRB scan tool to data link connector. The data link connector is located in passenger compartment, below and to left of steering column.
2. Gain access to SET SYNC screen on DRB.
3. Follow directions on DRB screen and start engine. Bring to operating temperature (engine must be in "closed loop" mode).
4. With engine running at idle speed, the words IN RANGE should appear on screen along with 0 °. This indicates correct distributor position.
5. If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not zero, loosen but do not remove distributor holddown clamp bolt. Rotate distributor until IN RANGE appears on screen. Continue to rotate distributor until achieving as close to 0 ° as possible. After adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5 Nm (200 in. Lbs.) Torque.

The degree scale on SET SYNC screen of DRB is referring to fuel synchronization only. It is not referring to ignition timing. Because of this, do not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this method. Rotating distributor will have no effect on ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled by powertrain control module (PCM). After testing, install air cleaner assembly.

____________________

Let me know if this is what you needed or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
1WARPIG1
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you, information is what I needed.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,175 POSTS
Happy to help. Did you get it running properly and back together?

Joe
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Tuesday, February 12th, 2019 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Hi, a question I have regarding the cam dist sync 2001 Dodge Ram v8. If the sync, indicates "in range" would misfires still occur if it's not on zero? Mine says "in range" but I still have a persistent misfire at 3,000 RPMs in park. Don't feel a misfire when driving and it seems impossible to set the sync with the engine running because the numbers jump around. Thank you, Frank
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2021 AT 4:57 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,175 POSTS
Hi,

If it is in sync, it should be okay. As far as the misfire, is it constantly the same cylinder or cylinders? Have you checked other things such as fuel pressure, spark plugs, and so on?

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2021 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Hi Joe. Thanks for the reply. I concluded that it is a no-fuel misfire because the downstream sensor goes low v. When the miss occurs. And the misfire monitor on the scanner sometimes indicates that the miss moves from cyl to cyl. The injectors are new, but more than a year now and so is the fuel pump.I replaced the spark plugs a number of times and I checked the fuel pressure and it seems fine to me but bear in mind I am not claiming to be an expert, although I have done various courses. The only practice that I get is DIY. Let me know if I missed anything. Thanks, Frank
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Thursday, August 5th, 2021 AT 3:56 AM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Hi Joe. I checked the fuel pressure on my dodge van and it seems to be falling too fast on shut down. The pump has been replaced about two years ago and also the injectors but I suppose things could still go wrong. How do I do a test to determine if it is the injectors or the regulator on a no fuel-line-return engine? 2001 dodge ram v8 The press. Goes up slowly KOEO, goes to 44 PSI when running falls a little on acceleration. How does that sound to you? I appreciate your help. Frank
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Friday, August 6th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening,

I would clamp off the line to the injectors and see if the pressure still drops off. If it does, then it is the pump.

If it does not then it could be a leaking injector.

Roy
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Friday, August 6th, 2021 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Hi Roy, I'm going to run through this just to be sure I got it correct: there is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail and a flexible hose going to the fuel rail, and it is a returnless system. So you mean that if I have the gauge connected to the Schrader valve and I squeeze off the flexible hose, that would indicate if it is the fuel injectors or the pump/regulator if the pressure falls. Thank you, Frank
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Saturday, August 7th, 2021 AT 3:42 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
That would be correct. It should hold fuel pressure. If it does, then you need a pump.

Roy
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Saturday, August 7th, 2021 AT 3:50 AM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
If it holds pressure at the flexible hose I need a pump or if it does not hold pressure? Thanks Roy.
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Saturday, August 7th, 2021 AT 7:31 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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If it holds pressure with the hose clamped, the injectors are good and the pump is bad.

Roy
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Saturday, August 7th, 2021 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Hi Roy,

The biggest part of my problem I realized after a while was that the Schrader valve connection was a bad connection, so I had to T-into the line, and then I was able to do the test. The pressure is good within 44 to 54 PSI but I find that when I pinch off the flex line the pressure falls, but very slowly like 1 PSI in seconds. Is that good or bad? The engine starts fine, the only concern is that misfire.
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Monday, August 9th, 2021 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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What was the exact pressure?

Roy
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Monday, August 9th, 2021 AT 7:16 AM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
I think it was around 48/49.
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Monday, August 9th, 2021 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, do you have a noid light to test and see if the injectors are being commanded to send fuel from the ECM?

Roy
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Monday, August 9th, 2021 AT 8:04 AM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Yes, I do have a set of noid lights and I did do some checking some weeks ago. I know I checked number 4 once and it was flashing fine, but I can't remember if I ever checked all 8 injectors. I should probably do that sometime; the thing is I get injector cirt codes every time and then I have to clear the PCM. The last time that I got the code it wouldn't go away even after I plugged it back in. Frank
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Monday, August 9th, 2021 AT 8:38 AM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
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Hi Roy. Frank here again, and I have something different to run by you: I was looking at the sync on the scanner again yesterday and I noticed that although, generally it says IN SYNC when the engine is running it drops out of sync. For just a second or two and goes back to IN SYNC and the numbers shift all the time for instance plus 2 plus 3 plus 4 plus 2 etc. Doesn't that indicate that something is loose? Another feature that the Atel scanner has is the cam and the crank count, but I don't really understand how to read it. When I use the graphing mode the waveform isn't consistent. I believe that possibly the timing chain or the flex plate or distributor is at fault here. What do you think? Thanks for your help and thoughts. I do appreciate it, Frank
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2021 AT 4:16 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, when it floats like that, yes, I would suspect a worn timing chain. That indicates slack in the chain causing it to come out of sync readings.

The variation is too much. It should only go a degree or two at the most.

Roy
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2021 AT 4:55 AM
Tiny
FRANKIEDONNN
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Thank you. Roy, I suppose there isn't much more to say but to start ordering the parts, but presently I'm ordering parts and tools for the differential and axle bearings which are worn-out too. When I bought this van it was only 5 years but still had a lot of wear and if I did not replace the differential oil then by now it would have fallen apart on the road. Thanks again, Frank
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2021 AT 5:09 AM

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