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Went to start the car and the security light was on

Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.4L
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
I unhooked the negative battery cable, not from the end that goes onto the battery but that is connected to a bolt on the other side of the battery, I don't know what it's called. Anyway, I hooked it back up, went to start the car and the security light was on. This car does not have the factory radio in it so I could not reprogram that way nor does it have the chipped key.
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Monday, September 27th, 2021 AT 8:04 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

I need you to try something. Turn the key to the run position and wait for approximately 10 minutes to see if the light turns off. If it does, see if it then will start.

If that works, perform the attached reset procedure. It will take 30 minutes but should take care of the issue.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
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Monday, September 27th, 2021 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
This security light doesn't go off after 10 minutes, not 15.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2021 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Okay, at the end of the left instrument panel is a fuse box. Pic 3 shows four fuses I need you to check. Additionally, make sure there is power to and from the fuses.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Also, pics 1 and 2 are the wiring schematic for the anti-theft system. I'm providing them for a reference.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2021 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
They are not burned out, the fuses.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2021 AT 10:23 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

Are you getting power to and from them? The fuse could be good, and failure happened before the fuse.

If there is power and the fuses are good, go to the body control module and see if it is receiving power from the fuses you checked. Wire color is provided in the schematic.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2021 AT 6:43 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
So, I could do that with a multimeter? I will have to go buy one tomorrow.
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2021 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

You could use a multimeter or even a test light. I'm suggesting this because the problem could be before the fuse. Just disconnecting the negative terminal shouldn't have caused this to fail. I'm thinking there may have been a power surge and it caused a fuse (upstream) to fail.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2021 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
There was also a wire for an amp (radio) hooked to the negative cable. It was there when she bought the car, maybe the source of the parasitic drain?
Anyway, I'll buy equipment later today and get back with you.
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Thursday, September 30th, 2021 AT 12:01 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

As far as the ground, if it was not connected to anything, it is unlikely related to a parasitic power draw unless it was in contact with a component that could use it to complete a circuit.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, September 30th, 2021 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
If I've done this correctly here's the readings I got:
PCM/BCM/cluster: with key on, without key on both 0
BCM; with key on without key on 0
lh/htd/st/BCM: with key on, without key on 0
clstr/BCM: with key on.04, without key on 0
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Thursday, September 30th, 2021 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
I'd have to trace that ground wire.
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Thursday, September 30th, 2021 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

Are they all not working (no power)? If that is the case, go to the under-hood fuse box and locate the left instrument panel fuse box fuse (60 amp). That fuse is what powers the interior fuse box and components you are checking.

I attached a pic below of the fuse location.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below.
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Friday, October 1st, 2021 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
All things seem to be working, just not able to start the car, security. Going to have to study a bit to make sure I'm using that multimeter correctly; I've not used one before but want to learn. I had watched a couple of videos on it but maybe I didn't get it right. I will study.
Thank you very much for your continued help. :-)
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Sunday, October 3rd, 2021 AT 6:28 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Okay, let me know what you find. Also, if there is no power, check the 60 amp fuse I recommended.

Also, let me know if you have questions related to the meter. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Take care,

Joe
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Sunday, October 3rd, 2021 AT 5:03 PM
Tiny
AHARTLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 107 POSTS
Thank you. I will keep you informed until this project has reached its conclusion.
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Monday, October 4th, 2021 AT 6:28 AM

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