1998 Saturn SL2 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 220000 miles
I repaired my ninitial problem and found a new problem. Here are my both stories.
On my initial problem of stalling, I measued the ohms on the cooling temp sensor and air intake sensor. Check ok. I had already cleaned the IAC valve before. I had a " gut" feeing that was my problem but an original cost $125 and thats why I hesitated to buy one. I decided to purchase a Duralast for $40 and take the risk. It worked!
As I was driving down the freeway, my Saturn just shut off. First time ever. I had gas but no fuel delivery. I pulled to the side and car wont start. I decided to swap the AC Blower High relay to see if my fuel pump will work. Relays are same part number. It worked. I stopped at the auto parts store and bought another relay. I drove back home and everything ok. I attempted to start my car this morning but relay was burnt again. Whats my problem? I have a 10 fuse and fuse is ok. My fuel pump is 2 yrs old but works with a good relay. Whats causing my bad relays?
First of all thank you so much for your donation. Are you sure the relay's are going bad I have seen very few of those relay's go bad it would be the last thing I would suspect going bad. Are you sure it's just not you pushing on the fuse box when installing the relay causing the relay to start working.I have seen bad fuse boxes do that same thing and when you push on the fuse box it make's it work.I have also seen a open terminal on the wire that feed's power to the fuel pump relay on the 68 way connector on the back side of the fuse box quite a few time's.
June, 16, 2010 AT 7:11 AM
I am 100% sure its the relay. I noticed that a " prong" had melted the plastic in the relay and the prong was darker than the others. When I went to Autozone, they too " confirmed" that the relay was bad. On my second fault, I took the relay out and had the same characteristics. Only this time it had two " prongs" darker and melted plastic. When I swapped out the relay, my car started. Good relay, it starts. Bad relay, no start. Remember that once it starts, my car runs like a 2010. These past two instances were random as to why the relays went bad. What can be contributing to my problem? I dont want to get stranded on the freeway again. Thank you.
June, 16, 2010 AT 8:00 PM
I emailed you a wire diagram of the fuel pump to your personal email. As you can see looking at it there really isn't a lot that can be melting that relay on the output side of the relay is the 10 amp fuel pump fuse if the fuel pump was drawing too many amp's it would blow that fuse. Now on the input side the power come's in from the i/p battery 30 amp maxi fuse in the under hood fuse box. Which take's a lot more power to blow that fuse. Let's check this on the back side of the inside fuse box there is a black 68 way connector disconnect the battery then unscrew the 7mm bolt and unplug that connector. Now look at all terminal's you will see a big red wire going to one of the terminal's that is terminal f5 you will see it in the wire diagram I sent you. Look and see if that terminal is open or look's like it has been arching. Let me know what you find.