1995 Saturn SL1 1995 SL1 ROUGH RUNNING, STALLS, REDUCED POW

Tiny
JBRAY4280
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 196,000 MILES
I have had an intermittant problem of stalling, rough running, reduced power for around 4 months now. I took it to a shop originally because the idle would not go below 2000 rpm. The shop said it was the IAC. They said it had no vacuum leaks and no codes, even though the check engine light would always come on when it ran rough, stalled, etc. They did clean the throttle plates. I did some research and decided it may be the thermostat as my temp was always low. I changed the stat and it ran fine for about a month. Then I started getting the rough idle, stalling, reduced power problem again. The engine has started to use oil when it never did before (2 quarts in 5k miles) on average. The strange part now is that if I put in fuel system treatment it will run fine for about 2 tanks of gas. Then starts again. It has still done it occasionally with the fuel treatment just added but very seldom. I tried to use a Code Reader at O'Reillys but wouldnt read. They did have an OBDI attachment. Any ideas to whittle down the possibilities?
Friday, September 24th, 2010 AT 12:45 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1993_SW2_code_retrival_part1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1993_SW2_code_retrival_part2_2.jpg


Follow how to get your code's like i posted let me know what code's you come up with.Also your oil consumption is within saturn spec's saturn allows 1qt per 2,000 mile's.
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Friday, September 24th, 2010 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
JBRAY4280
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  • 6 POSTS
I checked the codes manually. What I came up with was
12, 32 & 33.
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Friday, September 24th, 2010 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Code 12 is normal you should have that code.The code 32 is for the egr valve is for most likely a sticking egr i would remove the egr valve and slowly push down the pintle till it bottom's out and then slowly take the screwdriver away from the pintle.See if the pintle closes all the way and doesn't stick.But from the surging and the code's it sound's like it's sticking.The code 33 is for map sensor high voltage i think the egr valve is causing that code so let's fix the egr code first.I posted instruction's on how to remove the egr valve the Picture of the engine is different then yours but the egr look's the same and is held in place by two bolt's like yours Let me know what you find.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1995_SL1_egr_valve_1.jpg


REMOVAL

1. Turn ignition Off.
2. Remove the air intake tube.
3. Disconnect the linear EGR valve wiring harness terminal.
4. Remove the linear EGR valve attachment bolts and valve assembly.

NOTE: The linear EGR valve should not be soaked in any solvent; otherwise damage to the electrical solenoid can result.
NOTE: Remove all loose deposits from the EGR inlet passage, otherwise they could clog the EGR valve.

5. Inspect the cylinder head, linear EGR valve and adapter passages for excessive carbon deposits. Deposits can be removed using a screwdriver or 305-330 mm (12-13 in.) length of odometer cable.
6. Clean the EGR valve mounting surfaces and inspect for scoring and cracks.

INSTALLATION

1. Install new EGR valve gasket.

NOTE: Make sure gasket is installed correctly or a vacuum leak will occur.

2. Install EGR valve.
3. Install EGR valve attachment bolts.

Linear EGR valve to cylinder head Torque to 25 N.m (19 ft-lbs)

4. Connect linear EGR valve wiring harness connector.
5. Inspect air inlet tube. Attach air inlet and tighten clamp.
6. Install fresh air hose.
7. Start engine and inspect for exhaust gas leaks and diagnostic codes.
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Saturday, September 25th, 2010 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
JBRAY4280
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I removed the EGR valve and the pintle was sticking a LOT.I cleaned it thoroughly to the point the pintle moved freely. I also started the car with the valve off and ran a couple seconds to blow what I could out of the passage. Hopefully this will solve the problem. Ive only run it about 10 miles since, so will wait and see after a few days if any of the problems return.
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Thursday, September 30th, 2010 AT 12:07 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
I have never had any luck cleaning those egr valve's they stick at the opening and they stick open which mean's the pintle or the shaft stick's and cleaning that is impossible. Your best bet would be to change it with a new one. If the code 32 come's back you will have to replace it. Also when you started it with out the egr valve did the engine race?If it didn't then you have a clogged passage way.
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Thursday, September 30th, 2010 AT 12:16 AM
Tiny
JBRAY4280
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
When I started the engine w/the valve off. It did run up to about 4 or 5k rpms. So I shut it down when it did that. So I guess that means I DONT have a clogged passageway. Is that what you are saying?

It has been hesitating a bit since the cleaning. Not anywhere near as bad as before and havent had any SES light. So hopefully the problem wont return very soon.

If it does anytime soon.I will probably replace the valve as you suggest.

Thanks for your help.
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Friday, October 1st, 2010 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Yes that mean's your passage is clear. For the hesitating I would check the plug's and wire's also pop off your plug wire's off the coil tower's and see if the tower's are corroded.
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Friday, October 1st, 2010 AT 7:55 PM

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