1993 Saturn SL1 93 Saturn SL Check Engine Light

Tiny
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I wish I could better explain what happened. It was a one-time thing so who knows the exact cause.

Thank you for locating that part for me too. Would you recommend I get a new one and calibrate that or recalibrate my old one?
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
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I wouldn't waste my money programing your old one that's probably not going to fix the problem. Then you would have to pay to get the new one programed too. Just spend the 50 and program the new one.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 6:47 PM
Tiny
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Thanks! I'll let you know the outcome once all is done.
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Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
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The part ordered was the wrong part. I'm working with the guy now to get a new one.

My motor mount needs repair (slightly off topic). Is there any way to find out the part number for the mount? It's the front, right mount.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
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Is it the mount right by the valve cover?
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
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If you're looking at the engine from the front of the car, it is located on the left (passenger side). I said Right as it is the right side of the car.

So I think that would be a yes.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
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If it's held in place by 5 nuts then it's the upper motor mount or torque axis mount there 35 at auto zone. You don't need a part number unless your buying it from the dealer and they should have the part number.
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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
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I'm not sure how to answer that. Last I had my car looked at, the mechanic pointed to it (circled in the pic below) and said "this motor mount needs to be replaced." I only brought it up because I told a neighbor about it and he said it's pretty cheap and easy to do. Not sure if that's true.

Either way I circled what I'm calling the motor mount. Not sure if it's right lol.

Note: NOT actual pic of my car.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/525722_4844040001_large_1.jpg

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Saturday, July 31st, 2010 AT 11:03 PM
Tiny
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You have the strut tower circled but if your talking about the engine mount the circle is touching then yes it's easy to change. You just take a floor Jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan and Jack it up againist the oil pan to take the weight off the mount. Then take the 5 nuts off and replace the mount.
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 12:21 AM
Tiny
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Ah! The way the mech was talking, I understood the "strut" as the engine mount. Ok. That makes a bit more sense. Could you direct me to a site that would provide details about the labor? As I understand, it's relatively easy (I've been told).
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 3:38 AM
Tiny
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1993_SL1_upper_mount_part2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1993_SL1_upper_mount_part1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1993_SL1_upper_mount_part3_1.jpg


I just told you how to replace but here you go anyways.
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 4:14 AM
Tiny
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I know you told me, but seeing diagrams (for me) is easier. I do appriciate you locating and providing that information for me. Still working with the PCM. I'll let you know as soon as I get it fixed.
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
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That was ridiculously easy! Took about 30 min (had some issue getting the previous mount off).
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
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Still having issues with the PCM. Working with the guy to get an exchange.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
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I got the motor mount replaced just fine. No issues. Took a while getting the old one off (stubborn bolts). But the new one went on just fine. Drove it around the block. Runs fine. Smoother even. I went out and took care of some business. On the way home, the battery light came on.

Since then, I am now getting a battery light constant. When I jump for codes, I still get the PCM code (as I haven't gotten the replacement yet). But now my temperature gauge flashes "61" or "62". I'm pretty sure it was "61". I checked and there's nothing that says about the temp gauge flashing a code. This is right after the engine light does "12" 3 times and "82" 3 times. It then flashes the temp gauge "61" 3 times before doing "12" on the engine light again.

I just bought a new battery. It was dead within 2 days. I've asked around and everyone says it sounds like the regulator inside the alternator. Seems like fixing one thing causes another! Still never got the original problem fixed yet.
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Monday, August 9th, 2010 AT 11:47 PM
Tiny
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There is a 61 6x signal fault but if you had that it should come thru your check engine light. If your battery light is on have your alternator tested you probably have a bad alternator. Fix your alternator and replace your pcm and see what happens from there.
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2010 AT 1:20 AM
Tiny
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I have the new PCM (part number verified) arriving Friday or Saturday. Replacing the alternator in a day or two.

With the PCM, I read somewhere (while looking for something else) that the PCM is designed to program itself by following a certain set of steps. I am not sure if this is accurate or the cure to a different problem.

Also, I read that PCMs rarely go out and are most likely never the issue. At the same time, I read an article saying that the way my "dumb-ass back-yard-mechanic" (who is never allowed within 100 yards of my car again) "reset" the computer is one of the things that causes a PCM to fail.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
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No if the pcm doesn't come programed it has to be programed by the dealer there flash prom's that come blank and need the correct software it can't learn the correct software. You are correct the pcm rarely goes out but when they set a internal failure code that pretty much say's there bad. That's why I have replaced most of them because of the internal failure code's. How did your back yard mechanic reset the code's?
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
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He turned the key short of starting then disconnected the negative terminal from the battery and left it like that for 2 min then (with the key still in the same position) reconnected the negative terminal.

After reading online about my alternator, I read that disconnecting the negative terminal with the key turned can cause shorts in the electrical system. It listed the PCM as one of the components that can be damaged through this process.

Also, he said to test for the alternator, to start the car and disconnect the positive terminal. It said that the PCM (among other components) can be damaged this way, even if the positive terminal is disconnected without the key in the ignition.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
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I never had an issue with my alternator or anything that would indicate my alternator was failed or failed prior to him performing this on the car.

Before it was only the PCM that has been having issues. I'm not sure what has caused that.

Also, when the car jerks in reverse (done it as long as I've had the car), I read that it is the throttle body or "something body" that is causing it to do that. Something about putting the car in reverse and draining some hydraulic fluid from somewhere and replacing it. I didn't really read too much about it as I was a bit clueless about what they were talking about. I can send you the link if you'd like.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 5:18 PM

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