The right front axle was replaced because boots were torn, now there is a constant whine noise?

This is not too uncommon. It can be caused by the replacement procedure. One of the first steps is to remove the large axle nut from the end of the half shaft. Some people do that when the tire is still on the ground so it holds the shaft from spinning. That's the first place where the wheel bearing can become noisy and sound like an airplane engine. That nut, along with the outer CV joint it's on, is what holds the wheel bearing together. There must never be any vehicle weight placed on that bearing any time the axle nut is loose. Doing so instantly makes them noisy.

The second chance for this to happen is at the end of the procedure. That axle nut must be tightened to a very high value, typically 180 to 240 foot / pounds. If the tire on the other side is off the ground, as it would be when the vehicle is on a hoist, turning the axle nut one way is going to make the other wheel turn the other way. A simple way to stop that is to stick a punch or a large screwdriver into one of the cooling slots in the brake rotor. That will hold the axle from turning so the nut can be tightened, THEN the wheel / tire can be installed and weight placed on the wheel bearing.

There's two ways to determine if the wheel bearing is noisy. My preferred method is to run the engine, in gear, on a hoist, and listen next to each one with a stethoscope. One will make you think it's the culprit, but then the other one will be much louder. A second method that works well for competent do-it-yourselfers is to raise that tire off the ground, (please be sure to use a jack stand), reach over the tire and wrap your fingertips lightly around one of the coils on the coil spring, then slowly rotate the tire with your other hand. You'll feel a definite vibration from the noisy bearing.

You have the luxury of knowing which side was worked on. Wheel bearings also commonly become noisy on their own. At the mileage you listed, they're long overdue to develop this problem. The service involving loosening the axle nut could have just been the final straw in a failure that was about to occur on its own. When you don't know which side has the noisy bearing, there is a third way to identify it that can work. Most wheel bearings are complete hub, wheel studs, and bearings as one bolt-on assembly. They cost more but can often be replaced in a few minutes. Yours is of an older design where the hub must be pressed out of the bearing, then the bearing must be pressed out of the steering knuckle. This is a rather miserable job that requires special tools. The advantages are the bearing is less expensive, and there's that third way to tell which side the noisy one is on. You can't go by sound because it travels and can be misleading. What you're sure is coming from the right side, for example, can really be coming from the left side. With this pressed-in design, listen to how the noise changes as you turn slightly. The best example is changing lanes at highway speed. If the right bearing is noisy, it will get louder when you turn slightly to the left. That's when more weight shifts to the right wheel. It will get really quiet when you turn to the right. That's when weight shifts to the other side. This observation works for about 95 percent of noisy bearings for this pressed-in design. It does not work for about 95 percent of bolt-on bearing assemblies. For those, you have to resort to the first two methods.

As for grease, yes, they come with the correct amount and type of grease, and the boots are installed. Years ago it was common for a new half shaft to cost $450.00, so we installed rebuilt units or we took them apart and replaced the boots. That was a time-consuming, messy job. The boot kits came with the packets of grease and new bands to clamp the boot to the shaft and outer CV joint. As little as a few years ago, a brand new half shaft for my '88 Grand Caravan cost $65.00. There's no way you can justify repairing an old, tired shaft any more when it would cost three times as much and take five times longer.

The rattle should be checked at the shop that did the recent work. If it's their mechanic's fault, he deserves the chance to correct his mistake. While less likely, it can also be due to something that was already loose or worn, but needed to be stretched, moved, or exercised to get the looseness to show up. This is also more common than you'd think where we work on the front, and now there's a new noise in the rear. It has even happened to me with my own vehicles. I would never admit out loud that most of the time, if I ignore the squeaks long enough, they go away.

This article might do a better job of explaining what it sounds like is happening:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/7-common-symptoms-of-a-bad-automotive-bearing-hub