Right sliding door not working properly

Tiny
BIONDOLILLO CARLO
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Right sliding door did not work, I replaced the power module. Now it closes but at the end of the run comes back. Instead, if the door is already closed when I open I hear just a click, and nothing happens. I attached 2 clips. I opened the cable box and I do not see any adjustment unless the transducer is faulty I would guess a mechanic issue. Thanks
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 1:46 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
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I am attaching the process for what I suspect the issue is. This is a test that we need to run through in order to try and identify the issue. This may be a door adjustment issue or a door position sensor issue but let's run through this testing and see what we turn up.

Also, we need to scan for codes just to see if this is telling us what the possible issue is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know what you find with all this and we can go from there. Thanks
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
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I forgot to report that I also swapped the power module again withe the right one (the box is different but the electronic card is the same) no change. Also I do not have any engine code, all is clean. Could you tell me where is the door position sensor? Thanks
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
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If there are no codes then we either have a door position sensor issue or possibly even an adjustment issue on the door. What was the original issue? Was the door operating properly one day and then just stopped and you replaced the module and now it is doing this? I attached the process for the sensor.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 9:52 AM
Tiny
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Well, long story short; the problem started under warranty 20 years ago. The dealer intervened 3-4 times adjusting the door, then started working but never smoothly. Once in a while would stop working then started again and so on. Few years ago stopped completely, I could hear only the click when I tried to open it. Now I decided to fix it. After exchanging the 2 power module (right to left and left to right) I realized that the board was faulty but that there was also another problem (as usual 2 problems at the same time just to drive you crazy:), as with the left board (good one) the door (right) would open but not close as bounced back. So I ordered a board I replaced and now I have the bouncing back. Beside the mechanical problem, which now I doubt because there is no resistance or funny attrition when I close the door manually, I am suspecting the transducer inside the actuator (where the cable is rolled). Is this what you called the door position sensor? If so would it be worth it to disassemble and try to watch inside? Thanks!
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
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This is not the sensor. I attached the repair process for this sensor but with that info it may be a perceived resistance issue so I agree with what you are suggesting. We need to remove the trim and just monitor to see if there are any binding components and go from there. Thanks
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, but I do not see any attachment.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2020 AT 2:49 AM
Tiny
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I attached it in a prior post but reattached it here.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2020 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
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Okay, Thanks. Let's clarify, and double check if we are talking about the same thing. I removed the assembly and disconnected the sensor (the one I call trasduser) it is a U shape inserted over a wheel with holes attached to the motor, that's why I assumed this is the position sensor as depending of the position of the wheel tells where the door is. Do we agree on this?
If so, removing and reconnecting it did not produce any result. I could try to replace with a new one but I could not find it. I am out of option now, unless you have another suggestion, my next move is to open the motor and check if the wheel is well connected or something wrong. What would you do? Thanks, now this has become my personal challenge I want and need to fix it! Thank you!
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2020 AT 7:17 AM
Tiny
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We agree. Unfortunately this is proving to be a tough one because I have run into this a couple times on different vehicles and have not had this much trouble. The only other thing I can think of is the contact switches are made of gold and they can wear out but normally that only causes the reverse issue and not the clicking and failing to open.

There has to be an obstruction or just something causing the rollers to not move smoothly which is causing binding at the closing point. This is causing the door to reverse when closing and then when it closes it can't open it.
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2020 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
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Hello, I am back, now after a while driving (I could not touch the car as I got a surgery) I am back on square one to the original symptom: when the door is closed and I click the remote I hear a little click in the door (the latch disengage) and noting happens, so I need to re-close the door manually. Instead if the door is completely open I hear a click in the module (relay?) And nothing happens. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you, Carlo
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
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Does this only happen when using the remote or does it happen also when using the overhead button inside the vehicle?
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Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 4:04 PM
Tiny
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Either ways acts the same.
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Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
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Unfortunately then we need a scan tool to monitor the switch inputs. That means when you press the button we should see in the scan tool that this module sees the input, which it appears it does as it clicks and then we need to see it walk through the switch/contact inputs so that we can see which one is not operating.

The common causes of these issues are adjustment issues, motor/module issues, or obstructions. It appears you have covered all of them so it looks like we are at the point of needing a scan tool capable of monitoring this information.
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
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Hi, I do have a scan tool, not sure if it is good for this kind of diagnosis. Here the picture, do you think we can use it?
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Monday, August 31st, 2020 AT 9:54 AM
Tiny
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I am familiar with the Autel tool and unfortunately it is not able to monitor this information. Clearly we either have another faulty module or are just missing something which is why we need this information to see where this may be failing.
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Tuesday, September 1st, 2020 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
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Hello again,

I have news, I was able to go back to the original symptom after replacing the module:
1. Right sliding door closed, I open with the remote and after the latch click the door disengage but does not open (video I sent a few days ago).
2. Right sliding door open, I close with the remote and it closes but after touching the other side it opens again. At this point I started the repair procedure 4 Detent Switch Circuit Diagnosis and the voltage check is fine on both doors, I attached the scheme, so I continued with the latch swith circuit diagnosis and here I have the news! Figure 10 Article 04-2-3 you sent, I attached so you can see the steps I followed until I hit figure 14 where it asks me to check the plunge PINs and I do not know how to remove it. I guess it is from inside? Any instruction? Do you think I am on the right path? Thanks, Carlo
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 1:35 PM
Tiny
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The plunger is most likely the actuator but I can't find anything to cross reference that. Where did you get this information?

Also, the way to find this is you need to disconnect a connector that has at least 7 pins. I went through all the wiring diagrams and could not find one with 7 pins.

Sorry I could not find more detail on this but let me know where you got that testing and I will try and get more detail. Thanks
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
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I found it on one of the Ford chat on the internet, here the first page od 22 (if you want I can send all of them). The plunger is in the picture here.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
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Got it. Thanks. That is the sliding door contact so clearly it has different names that the manual doesn't have. I attached the pin out. Can you access the connector? If so, you don't need to remove it.
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Friday, September 4th, 2020 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
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Thank you, I went on with the diagnose and checked the actuator function disassembling it completely from the frame. I put 12v on it and the actuator pushes out every time gets 12v with no load. Then I measured its resistance and it is 0. It is funny right? Should it have some resistance? I do not see anything else at fault, so I am trying to find the actuator to replace it but I couldn't. Any suggestions?
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Saturday, September 5th, 2020 AT 10:51 AM

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