Prolong crank time then starts

Tiny
TREXGIRL81
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.5L
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 9,500 MILES
Few days ago went to start van, took longer than 2 to 4 seconds to start. Though maybe it took a little bit cause it was chilly outside. Drive fine after. Van was parked from 8:00 am to 2:00 pm. Got in and took little longer to crank but started. Following morning got in the van to head to work, took 7 to 8 seconds longer to start. It cranks for a long time but does start. No check engine lights or service engine soon light. I talked to do workers and they say it's either the starter going out or ignition wire going bad or fuel filter.
Please help, only working car I have.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 5:30 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
There are several things that it could be, but if it cranks normally we can take the starter out of the equation. If there is a black plume of smoke out of the tailpipe when it does start, then it could be a fuel injector bleeding down fuel into the engine when the engine is off. Another common cause is a fuel pump that does not hold pressure, which can be verified with a fuel pressure test. Sometimes you can cycle the key to the on position several times (usually 2 or 3) before you actually crank the engine, if it fires right up, a fuel pressure loss is verified! Most common cause for this is the fuel pressure regulator on the in tank fuel pump. If you are replacing this you might as well replace the whole pump if it is original to the vehicle. I've attached a picture of the pump with the regulator. here is also a repair guide that explains the fuel pressure:

test:https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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I've tried that and on the third cycle it still takes a while to start. I can also hear the pump when I have the key in the on position. When I got the van the only thing that was changed was the oil. It had been garage kept before it was given to me, the older man only drove it shortly before he got sick, hence only 95,000 miles, it was never started after until it was driven from Mississippi to Indiana. Another one of my co workers said that it could possibly be the plugs, he got in it and drove it for a day and said other than the prolonged crank to start. He noticed that sometimes it hesitates and he notices that it idles rough at times and it'll shutter a few seconds and then be fine.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Hi,

Just to jump in and add what my two cents. This could be a plug issue because if they are fuel soaked then they will deliver a weak spark. It is called having a fouled plug.

If you just recently purchased the vehicle it is not a bad idea to have the plugs and wires replaced along with the cap and rotor. The fact that it has a rough idle and shutter also points towards this possible plug issue.

Not to mention this is supposed to be done anyway at 100,000 so you are not losing anything if this does not fix the issue.

The other major possible cause for a long crank on this engine is a failed crank sensor. This causes a long crank because once it is able to learn the engine position off the cam sensor it will fire the engine. However, this normally causes a check engine light. So if that is not on then I would change the plugs and go from there.

Let us know what happens. Thanks
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Friday, September 13th, 2019 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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  • 9 POSTS
Okay. There is no check engine light and it is not the battery, I had it tested. I noticed today that I'm using a lot more gas too. I am sucking gas some where. And when it starts there is no black smoke from the tail pipe. I am taking it to a mechanic shop tomorrow to have them take a look at it. Everyone that I've talked to has said it is this or it is this or that. I'm hoping it is not the fuel pump because this is the only car I have and can't go with out for longer than a few days. I will update when I find out.
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Friday, September 13th, 2019 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Sounds great. Let us know what happens. Thanks
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Friday, September 13th, 2019 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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  • 9 POSTS
Had the mechanic look at it. Turned the van off yhere and then turned it on and it started right up like nothing was wrong. Mechanic said its the fuel pump, by the way I described it. But isnt too sure
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Saturday, September 14th, 2019 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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That was the first Experts first thought and I don't see any reason to doubt it. I would ask if your mechanic is willing to put a fuel pressure gauge on the vehicle and tape it to the windshield so that you can monitor the pressure when this does act up. This way you can see it while it is starting normally and then when it acts up if the pressure is different then that confirms your issue. Otherwise, you will have to leave it with the mechanic until he can duplicate it.

Please let us know what you find. Thanks
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Saturday, September 14th, 2019 AT 11:51 AM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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The Mechanic told me it could be the gasket to the fuel pump. Said that sometimes they become loose or get old and it causes it to loose vacuum and that to check it after its sat for a day, if there's a wet spot on the ground and it smells like gas it the gasket. He also said to basically drive it til it doesn't start anymore even if it has gas and then to bring it in cause that'll tell him its the pump and not the gasket. Said there was no need for fuel pressure gauge.
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Sunday, September 15th, 2019 AT 7:18 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. That is unfortunately pretty common among some mechanics. In general that is their way of telling you they don't want to bother with it until it has failed completely. However, that doesn't help you very much because once it does fail then you are stranded. I am sure his shop is busy and just doesn't want to take the time to properly diagnose it or maybe he doesn't know how. Either way if it were me, I would be looking for another shop to look at this vehicle.

All I can tell you is what I would do if this vehicle came into my shop and monitoring the fuel pressure would be the first step.
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Sunday, September 15th, 2019 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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  • 9 POSTS
Update: work will start on my van Monday, it was definitely the fuel pump. The mechanic said that the pump on my van should be at 52 lbs of pressure, but it was only at 32lbs. It's going to only cost me $350.00 total, that is labor and parts, said they could have it done as soon as Tuesday morning if there's no rust on bolts. Which they looked under the van and said there was hardly any rust at all.
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Friday, September 27th, 2019 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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Yes! I love it when a plan comes together lol!
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Friday, September 27th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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I just want to say thanks BMDOUBLE and KASEKENNY1 for helping point me in the right direction and helping me figure out what it was and not having to shell out a bunch of money just to find out it was the fuel pump.
Thanks so much.
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Friday, September 27th, 2019 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
TREXGIRL81
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After the first mechanic told me to drive it until it died and was leery of letting him work on it after, was afraid he'd "fix" things that didn't need fixed. Because there are 3 things on my van that I know need fixed but are cosmetics and I'm fine with and they just add extra security to the van and keep people or kids from opening doors while driving and keep people from starting my van if they don't know about the dead man switch as I call it.
Thanks again
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Friday, September 27th, 2019 AT 5:18 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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You are welcome. Thanks for using 2CarPros. Come back when you have more questions.
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Friday, September 27th, 2019 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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You're welcome!
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Friday, September 27th, 2019 AT 9:16 PM

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