Power doors will not lock or unlock

Okay. That makes sense. That is a little misleading because I think this module is the backup for the theft system.

When you plugged it in, did the theft light go off or did it stay on or flash?

Basically, it should be done because they are just going to pull out the info from the old module and put it in this one but that does not mean that it will not operate the locks.

So, I am curious to see if these voltages are different when this module is plugged in.

Okay. Then that confirms that the module does require to have it programmed as it is the back up for the theft information. Basically, this is so that when you replace the PCM the theft info is stored somewhere else, and you don't have to replace all the theft components to match the new PCM. You can simply run a procedure with a scan tool that will tell the PCM what info it needs to work with the vehicle as equipped.

So that means we need to treat this the same and check the voltages and find out what is there.

One more thing that we need to do is go to the lock actuator on one of the doors and make sure there is no power there. I am sure there isn't but maybe we missed something.

Unfortunately, you need one that is capable of extracting the info from the module, saving it and then flashing the new module. Those are the high dollar tools that most DIYer don't have. So, if you have a code reader or one that can monitor live data, that is not going to be capable of doing this.

Unfortunately, the scan tool will not work for transferring this info.

As for the voltage, those voltages are off as well. You have 18 volts on the output and a number of switch inputs on door ajar switches.

Plus, you have 37 volts on another one, so we have to have an issue with either the meter or how we are testing this.

Can you get a picture of the meter hooked up to this so that we can see the settings on the meter and how you have it connected to the circuits?

You should have around battery voltage on most of the circuits or close to 0 volts. So, these are very strange but at least some of the things that didn't work started working again so you know that other module was causing issues.

Okay. I think I see the issue. This meter has an auto scale so when you checked these volts and it says 40 volts or 37 volts, I suspect that was millivolts and not volts.

So, let's just focus on pin 1. Can you hook this up and check the voltage on pin 1 and ground? Then get a picture of your meter when you are pressing the lock button and when you are not?

Hopefully seeing what the meter is saying for these will get us where we need to be. Thanks