No power to several fuses in panel with key on?

Tiny
MCASEYREDMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HUMMER H3
  • 5 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95,000 MILES
The vehicle does not have any gauges coming up with key on and when turned to start position it does nothing and makes no sound, I can however operate electric windows and door locks. I had just replaced terminals at battery and replaced a blend door actuator and was trying to test it when it would not start or even crank. I had left my battery charger on it over night to have the best power. I have plenty of power at battery, the headlights come on bright, all turn signals work, brake light works, power windows work, power door locks work, radio comes on and I can pull CD's in and out of 6 CD changer but have no sound from speakers, HVAC module lights up and I can operate blend door actuators but fan is not coming on now( I had already checked resistor and it looked like new), lights come on at instrument panel but no gauges come up with key in on position, the lights on instrument panel that go out after 5 seconds are the Pass Lock light (so it has not been activated)the cruise control light goes out as it should, but on left side of panel the battery light stays on as long as key is in on position, the ABS also stays on, the traction control light stays on. The DIC is has a message of traction control failure and ABS fault and low fuel message, but it has over half tank of gas, I assume the gauge not coming up is why it has low fuel message. When I turn the key to start the panel goes black until I release key then goes back to same as before. I have tried a reset that I got off YouTube where you pull fuse 15 for 5 minutes, fuse 15 is wiper motor but 14 is BCM so I pulled it also and all lights on dash and interior and headlights shut down at that point, I left the key in on position just to see what it did when fuse is pulled and basically everything that did have power was taken away and when I replaced fuse with key still in on position the HVAC went into the reprograming stage by itself that I could not make it do before, the lights flashing on all three knobs and could hear actuators moving and some buzzing sounds then the first and third knobs stopped flashing and went solid light and middle had no light which is what it is supposed to do. Still it will not crank and have no fan and gauges still do not come up.
Wednesday, May 31st, 2023 AT 2:29 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,867 POSTS
Okay, the first thing we need to check is the fuses with the key on.

here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If all fuses are okay let's do a CAN scan, you can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon.

Here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Here is one for about $99.00 if you need it:

https://amzn.to/3ZixY4v

It sounds like the instrument cluster has gone bad or the ignition switch is not working correctly.

here is a guide to check for power and ground at the cluster and to check for power at the ignition switch:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the images (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.

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Friday, June 2nd, 2023 AT 7:20 AM
Tiny
MCASEYREDMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I got the fuse panel problem figured out, I had left out the 10 amp fuse #4 in panel which is RUN/Start. Now back to what I was trying to fix to begin with, the blower motor that suddenly stopped working after I tried to do the HVAC reset where you turn temp knob to the right and blower knob to the right and vent select knob to the left and press and hold temp and vent knobs until they flash. They did not flash after holding them down for a minute but after that blower would not come on at all. It made no sound at all as I turned the switch through each speed. I pulled the resistor out and it looked like new and no melting on anything. The relay is right next to motor and I was doing resistance test, set my multimeter to 0.0 to test for less that 1.0 ohms but when I touch leads together it starts at.95 and quickly starts dropping down to.35 but when I put it to the #5 on relay and to the ground on relay it goes all over the place starting at 1.3 and bounces back and forth and never settles down to a reading. I'm not sure if I am doing it right and that means the relay is bad or what. The other check is on #1 of relay to ground and #1 is the ground circuit so I put my red lead on #1 and black on metal dash frame but it does nothing, it does not move the meter. I could use some advice on this. As for the control module reset, when I put the fuse in the #4 on fuse panel the control module did the reset automatically without me touching it. I heard it moving blend doors and buzzing sounds and then stopped flashing and first and third knobs lights went solid and center knob light went out. So I assume it reset but still no blower. Two questions I have, one is about the module trim and how to get it off so I can get to the connector to test it. I cannot get any thin bladed tool or knife even in the gap to pry it off and afraid of tearing it up. Second thing is how to get the relay off the side of motor. I don't see a bolt or screw to remove or feel one, it looks like it slides off a plastic arm that is part of motor cover, am I supposed to take motor cover off to get it out or what. Any help I can get I would appreciate. Thanks
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Sunday, June 4th, 2023 AT 7:59 PM

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