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1989 Plymouth Voyager No Spark in 2.5 Turbo Minivan

Tiny
TSICONQUEST88
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 75,000 MILES
89 t1 2.5 minivan:

Here is what happened. I was driving and the van suddenly shut down, I have fuel and heres the real kicker, had spark from the coil but NOT from the distributor to plugs. OK so yea I figure lemme try a new HEP, I go get one and put it in, still no good and then I noticed I LOST spark from the coil too now! So now im like what the heck is going on here? Help me out guys, ever hear of this?

BTW most important thing, I do get spark for a second from the coil when I turn the key on but not during cranking. And a slight jolt when u turn the key off, so yea just spark for a split second when key first goes to start position and then when the key is turned off. So anyaway as recap, I started off with spark at coil and no dostributor to plugs, swapped out to new hep module which didnt help then noticed no more coil spark either except for a split second when you turn the key on and a spark again when you turn the key off but nothing while cranking. Oh tried a new coil too but same thing.

However at a side note I do have 7 or so volts at the coil with key on. Idk what should be there though. And I did get it to spark and start for a sec out of nowhere when I was first looking it over. And that was it and I still had spark at the coil after that. Then all the above took place.
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 6:23 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Hi tsiconquest88 and TY for the donation and Merry Christmas

Okay here we go check and test the ASD relay or replace/swap it with like a one and see what happens then get back with some results.

7volts sounds short on the input side of the coil's primary -The ASD relay powers the coil/distributor.
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
TSICONQUEST88
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I dont have another ASD and cant get a new one from parts stores, how can I test this one? I have a repair manual but it dont tell how to test it. Thanks
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
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Can you swap it with another like one- If not you can test it by using an ohmmeter check the resistances on the coil side -should yield 40-80ohms and the switch is infinity ohms

Remove the coil positve lead and isolated -then Do this get a jumper wire with an inline fuse connect it to the battery positive post and to the coil's positive terminal-let me know
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Friday, December 11th, 2009 AT 10:54 PM
Tiny
TSICONQUEST88
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Hey I will pay for the calll if need be, but can we discuss this over the phone today (sunday) sometime, a lot seems to be going on and it would be easier to discuss in more detail on the phone. Here is my cell number 845-283-4072 name is joe and I would REALLY appreciate it and as I said be more than happy to pay for the time we spend. Let me know ASAP and or just call. Thanks a lot!
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 1:50 PM
Tiny
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Do this get a jumper wire with an inline fuse connect it to the battery positive post and to the coil's positive terminal-let me know

Did you do this?

What else is happening
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
TSICONQUEST88
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I did do that and nothing happened. This is why I wanted to try discussing in detail cus I did some other stuff my haynes manual told me as check and it started again for a second after putting a lead from neg battery term to pin 14 (as stated) and in turn still nothing (also had the pos to pos like you told me cus the haynes said so too, so I had both leads on and then cranked nothing, I took the neg to pin 14 off went to start and id did outta no where and then it shut off- coinicidence I think) cus it didnt start again so I took the pos to pos lead off again as the coil was getting WAY hot. OH by the way, the coil side of the ASD relay is the 2 larger wires right? Up and down rather than the thinner ones side to side? Side to side had 81 ohms to where the 2 coil ones (if im right that the 2 large ones are the coil ones and I think this cus one of the 2 thicker wires leads to the white coil wire pos wire through the harness after splitting into the white and green w/black stripe thick wires). And got 0 ohms. So yea anyway got 0 for the coil side of the asd and over 80 at the thinner ones anyway. So either way I think its wrong anyhow, right? BTW I have no power to the pos wire at the coil which I think I told u but not sure, and when I tirn key on as I did say I get spark for a split second and when I have the pos lead of my meter on the pos coil wire at time of key on I also get a quick reading at same time as spark and then goes to zerothen of course 0 whole tiume of cranking. This is of course with the pos to pos jumper lead off.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
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Tests you need to do with ignition system

1. Check the primary and seconday resistances of he coil.

2. Resistances on the distributor pick-up coil and air gap

3. Test ignition control module

NOTE: You do not have a CPS

And get back with the results
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
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Perform No Start Test 4 before proceeding.

With diagnostic readout box connected, put system in ``Actuate Coil 1, '' select ``Voltage Sensors Battery Voltage, ''then push volt/ohm button to read voltage.
Touch diagnostic readout box volt probe to coil positive terminal.
If voltmeter does not read battery voltage, locate and repair open circuit in gray/black wire of coil to harness splice, then proceed to Test 16.
If voltmeter reads battery voltage, turn ignition switch Off and disconnect black/gray wire from coil negative terminal.
Turn ignition switch On, then put diagnostic readout box into actuate ``Ign Coil'' and voltmeter mode.
Touch voltmeter probe to coil negative terminal.
7 If voltmeter does not read above 10 volts, replace ignition coil, then proceed to Test 16.

If voltmeter reads above 10 volts, select ``Stop All Tests'' on diagnostic readout box and go into voltmeter mode.
Touch voltmeter probe to loose black/gray wire near ignition coil.
If voltage is above 9.8 volts, replace ignition coil proceed to Test 16.
If voltage is below 9.8 volts, turn ignition switch Off, then disconnect 14-way connector from SMEC.
Inspect 14-way connector for damaged terminals, then put diagnostic readout box in ohmmeter mode.
Touch ohmmeter probe to cavity 12 of 14-way connector. If ohmmeter shows continuity, locate and repair short to ground in J5 black/gray wire.
If ohmmeter does not show continuity, connect a jumper wire between black/gray wire near coil and ground.
Touch probe to cavity 12 of 14-way connector, if ohmmeter shows continuity, replace SMEC and proceed to Test 16.
If ohmmeter does not show continuity, locate and repair open circuit in J5 black/gray wire between coil and 14-way connector, then proceed to Test 16.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 6:34 PM
Tiny
TSICONQUEST88
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I dont have a diagnostic readout box. So thats a no go.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2009 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
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Do this:

Tests you need to do with ignition system

1. Check the primary and seconday resistances of he coil.

2. Resistances on the distributor pick-up coil and air gap

3. Test ignition control module
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Monday, December 14th, 2009 AT 12:16 PM

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