Engine not running?

Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
**Cranks but no start condition:Do below to determine whether it's fuel or spark issue.

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRADFREELING
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
Electrical problem
1992 Plymouth Acclaim 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

i have a 92 acclaim, the other night it wouldnt start, but it started right up the following morning, I than got fuel and it wouldnt start again, I checked the battery, starter, and the spark plugs, I believe it may be the fuel pump, how would I go about fixing that
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:
First I would be sure it's the pump. If it is, the fuel tank has to be removed. Once it's removed, it's just a matter of removing the wiring and hoses from the old pump, and replacin them on the new pump.

Joe
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HILLBILLY90
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 179,000 MILES
I was driving the car down the road and then it just stalled out and will not start. Have replaced the fuel pump. The battery is good, replaced fuel pump relay, replaced the automatic shut down relay. Now car just still cranks over but won t start.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You have to specify the engine size when you have this type of problem. The 3.0L V-6 was an upgrade optional engine that has extremely little trouble with the ignition system. Almost all crank / no-starts are caused by a loss of spark, injector pulses, and fuel pump. The misleading clue is the fuel pump will still run for one second when you turn on the ignition switch and you may hear the hum at that time. That is to insure fuel pressure is up for starting in case it bled down over days or weeks. Since the injectors don't fire with this common failure, no fuel is used up from the supply system, so fuel pressure doesn't drop. That falsely removes the fuel pump from the list of symptoms or observations.

The same can be said of the 2.5L 4-cylinder engine, but this failure is a lot more common with an easy repair. We normally never approve of throwing random parts at a problem as a means of diagnosis, since that is the most expensive and least effective way to solve a problem. One exception, however, is the pick-up assembly inside the distributor. They have such a high failure rate, a lot of owners carry a spare in the glove box. To add to the confusion, as with their counterparts on all newer engines of all car brands, these often fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour.

When this pick-up assembly fails, it stops sending signal pulses to the Engine Computer. Those pulses are what tells the computer the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), and it's time to turn on the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay. That relay sends current to the ignition coil, injector(s), alternator field, and fuel pump or separate fuel pump relay. The common mistake too many people make is they try to repair the circuit for the first thing they find missing, rather than looking for other things the failure has in common. Most of the time they find the loss of spark and concentrate on that. In fact, loss of spark only accounts for about two percent of these crank / no-starts, and a dead fuel pump accounts for about three percent. A good 95 percent are caused by the distributor pick-up assembly. Chrysler calls this the "Hall Effect Switch" for the type of switching transistor it uses. You may also find it called the "ignition pick-up coil", "distributor reference sensor", or camshaft position sensor".

This photo shows what it looks like. Remove the two screws that hold on the tall black plastic water shield in front of the distributor, then unbolt the distributor cap. Lift off the ignition rotor, then lift up the pick-up assembly. Install the new one in the reverse order.

Also be aware the same problem will occur if the timing belt breaks. Unlike with a pick-up assembly that is often intermittent, a broken or jumped timing belt is never intermittent. Those failures are permanent. The clue to a timing belt problem is the engine will not sound normal during cranking. It will spin faster and smoother than normal. The glaring clue to a broken timing belt is the ignition rotor will not rotate during cranking. The 2.2 / 2.5L engines are not of the interference design, so no valves will be damaged if the timing belt breaks. Belt replacement is not very difficult, but it does require a special weighted tool to set the tension on the new belt.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)

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