Engine not running?

Tiny
JOHNNYT73
  • EXPERT
Could also be a crank position sensor.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DLS5785
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
While driving at 55 mph my car started to decrease in mph and then the care eventually stopped running. I tried to start it up again and then it only ran for about 30 seconds and stalled again. I replaced the fuel filter at the suggestion of a friend. Tried starting the car and again it only ran for about 30 seconds. I replaed the fuel pump in this car about 4-5 years ago and was wondering if it could be the fuel pump again. I don't want to replace it if that is not the problem, as I don't want to spend money on something that is not needed. I know some car can have a diagnostic test and was wondering if my car has the connection so that a diagnostic test can be done on my car. Thank you for your help
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Welcome to the forum. If there are any codes, cycle the ignition switch to on, three times, on--off, on--off, on, then the check engine lite starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. If your talking about using a scanner, there should be a connector under the hood, don't have exact location in front of me, I have seen them near the battery. I'd use a gage and check fuel pressure, before suspecting the pump.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KLEVER22
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
1993 Plymouth Acclaim 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Hello! I am looking for help with my 1993 plymouth acclaim. When the key is turned she cranks but won't start without adding starting fluid. Even then she only runs until the fluid is burned up. The fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injector have all been replaced. The fuel makes it to the injector but is not injected, and the pressure is good up to the injector. I tested the wiring from the computer to the injector and at the injector and it works fine. I have checked the wire going to the auto-shutdown relay from the injector and it is good as well. One of the relay's wires is hot when the car is off even though that particular wire isn't supposed to be, it then gets even more electricity going through it when it cranking. I suspect either the auto-shutdown relay or a ground wire, but I'm not sure. Last august the car had been running fine (aside from needing the transmission oil changed and the knockdown(?) Bolts tightened) I parked her, turned her off, and she didn't start again. A few months ago before I replaced the fuel pump she fired up once, not sure why, then when turned off she wouldn't start again.
Any help or suggestions you can give me would be great.
Thanks!
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Start here, and we'll go from there:
Is your check engine light on? If yes turn the key from off to on three times, on the fourth one leave it in the on position, count the flasshes.22 would flash as 2 blinks, then a short puase, then 2 more blinks. If several codes are stored, the pause is longer between codes, code 55 will be the last code. Do this and post all codes found. Could be a no crank reference problem, but check codes please!
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KLEVER22
  • MEMBER
The only codes I get off of her is the one that says the battery was disconnected within the last 50 cycles, which it has been.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Remove the ASD relay and check if the wire is still hot, if not try replacing/testing the relay.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KLEVER22
  • MEMBER
I have replaced the ASD relay and disconnected the negative battery cable for about 40 minutes, reattached it and tried again. I got the same result as before.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Get an analog voltmeter remove the negative battery cable, attach the Black lead to the battery post, Red lead to cable end, then pull fuses one at a time, make sure there are no accessories or lights in the on position, Key off! Close the door after each fuse and check meter, when you pull the fuse for the bad curcuit, the meter will drop to 1 volt or so. Check all fuses, even under the hood. If meter does not drop, remove the battery connection from the alternator, if it drops now, the diodes are bad in the alternator. Put the fuse back in were it goes as you go so you don't forget which fuse goes were! This will track down which circuit needs to be checked, You may need to remove the relay center the ASD is in and inspect the wires under it.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RECON134
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
My car stalled when I was driving, I tried to restart by putting car in neutral, but no luck I noticed the check engine light was flashing but I was unaware of the codes at that time. I parked the car and turned on my flashers, but by the time I could get back to my car the battery was dead. I towed car home and charged the battery, and turned the key on and off 3-4 times but the computer was clean this time and I got a solied light. I have changed the ASD Relay, but the engine turns over freely as before but will not start. Any ideas?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KLEVER22
  • MEMBER
I checked the fuses, relays (both under the hood and next to the fuse box) and the battery connection to the alternator. All of them look good.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
First check for spark before you randomly replace parts. If spark is missing, check if the ASD relay is turning on. Measure the voltage at the positive terminal on the ignition coil or either small terminal on the back of the alternator. A test light is more accurate here than a voltmeter because most digital meters don't respond fast enough. You'll see 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is if it comes back during engine cranking. If it does not, suspect the Hall Effect pickup assembly under the rotor in the distributor. Before you replace it, be sure the rotor is turning during cranking. If it isn't, the timing belt is broken.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Hello and thanks for donating

Just curious, have you tested and inspected closely the wiring harness for the fuel injectors themselves?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE1014
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
Computer problem
1993 Plymouth Acclaim 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100k miles

no spark feul pump doesn't run changed hall effect sensor and PCM book says I should get 9 volts to hall effect sensor but I only get 2.8 volts if you don't get a signal from the hall effect sensor theres a relay called the automatic shut down relay shuts off fuel pump and 12 volt going to the coil It seem like the PCM is bad or something is draging down the voltage to the hall effect sensor the books I have don't have enough info I checked for shorts and the wiring from the sensor to the Pcm is good
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
At the injector dark green and orange wire check for power-do you have it?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE1014
  • MEMBER
No, there isn't any power to the orange and green wires.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Test the ASD relay and fuse no.11 10amp. If okay have the computer tested. The ASD relay powers the coil/injector/fuel pump
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE1014
  • MEMBER
ASD relay was replaced
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRASSIER
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
Hey Guys,

I have been trouble shooting my Acclaim for the past three days. Here is what I have found:

Engine will crank but not start. Engine has good spark, compression and air.

I thought at first it was the fuel pump because the car would start right away when I spray quick start into throttle body and if you keep spraying it, it will continue to run. But I checked the fuel pump and it has good pressure. Fuel Filter is new and is not the problem because I checked the fuel pressure right up until it goes into the throttle body.

So I was thinking either the Fuel Regulator or the injectors? Or is there some sort of EFI module that could be bad?

I had driven the car the day before and everything was running fine. When I went to start the car in the morning for work (much milder day than usual) it almost started on first key turn and then would not start. Hasnt since.

Another thing I noticed is that when the engine is cranking a tiny bit of fuel is dripping out of the module that is directly over the hole in the throttle body. I am thinking this is some type of secondary injector? Maybe when the throttle is wide open? But it is not enough fuel dripping to start the engine. I have to spray quick start to get it to turn over. Not sure if this means anything or not but thought I would mention it.

Please let me know what I should check next as I really need to get this bad boy back on the road.

Really appreciate your help!

Cheers, RG
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACK42
  • EXPERT
Chryslers use an Auto Shut Down Relay or ASD. This could very well be the problem. First get a test light and check for power to one side of the injector harness. The fuel is dripping from the fuel pressure regulator, it needs to be replaced or it will run rich
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM (Merged)

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