Overheating, the engine gets hot and fans do not turn on?

Update: Fuse has power in and out. Terminal 87 on high and low speed relays has power. Both have ground but it seems it's there before it gets hot. When the temp sensor is connected the fan will not come on even at 200, measured with IR gun. When it's disconnected the fan run as long as the car is running. When the temperature sensor is connected, and the AC is on it cycles on and off. Scratching my head on that. I now found out that this engine has been overheated 3 times. The system doesn't seem to pressure up and I can smell coolant and hear a hissing down by the passenger side head. I'm also told that it will lose some coolant in a couple hundred miles. I don't see water on the dipstick, but I think there a tiny bit of oil in the coolant reservoir. Tomorrow I will do a combustion gas test on the coolant. I think the T-stat failed and caused a small head gasket leak.

Tomorrow along with combustion gas test. Why would it cycle with AC on but not with it?

I did the pressure test and found a very small crack on the base of the passenger side upper locating post. I ran the car with 15psi and my scanner reading live data and the fan cycles at 109 C. That's with it idling in the driveway. It would appear everything is working as it should. Just need to put a thermostat in it. Right now it's open. I'm going to try and repair the crack with super glue and baking soda. I've fixed so many plastics with it and even submersed it in gasoline and it doesn't break down.

I repaired the crack high speed fan circuit cycles on at 109C and off at 104C. The temperature drops to 100C. Low speed doesn't cycle or activate when relay is jumped. Is this the resistor? Drove 30mi. Live data showed coolant as low as 82C. Only reaches 109C if sitting at idle for a long time. Of course the ambient temperature is in the 70s now. I think it needs a t-stat to hold temperature closer to optimum. Last two photos are the repair and 1st is at 109C. Completely dry at 15psi and 228F. Checked again after 30mi, perfect. I swear this repair is stronger than the original plastic most of the time.

Pin 87 has power, does the resistor have two separate circuits? On most repairs you use super glue to fasten the parts. Then you rough up the crack with sandpaper or a file, lay the super glue over the crack but a little wider, then put baking soda on and smooth it out. Repeat a couple times removing excess soda between coats. You can sand it, grind it, whatever. I've used it on many types of plastic. For additional strength you can mix pencil graphite in with the baking soda. I've never tried that, I've also heard of using concrete instead of baking soda. I haven't tried that either. Here's a picture of a Volvo timing belt cover that got stepped on.

Only the high-speed relay activates the fan when jumped.

I'll try that, I've swapped with the high speed relay so the relay is good. Thank you

Jumped 85 and 87, low speed did not turn on.

No power at pin 85. Where does it get its voltage supply?