O2 code

Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE RAM
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
My truck started sputtering a couple days ago. I thought it was running out of gas. It idles fine, and I have no trouble when motor is cold. Once warmed up it starts acting up again. It gave the O2 heater code and I replaced the sensor this weekend. It seemed to help some, but not completely fixing the problem. Was told to replace catalytic converter, but wouldn't it throw a different code if the catalytic converter is bad? What is my next step to finding the cause of this?
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Monday, February 1st, 2016 AT 7:32 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
0/2 codes don't mean replace the 0/2. We need the exact code number.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, February 1st, 2016 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
Ok so it coded 134 o2 sensor circuit 1/1 and then 145 o2 sensor heater 1/2. From this I take that I should change the sensor behind the catalytic converter correct?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 9:54 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You have 2 different problems with 2 different sensors. The upstream sensor on bank one is showing no activity. It needs to be tested to determine if the sensor is not sending a signal or the signal is being lost after it leaves there. You also need to determine if it is simply reading lean exhaust for some reason. The sensor is a reporting device. It doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad if you don't like the report.

The P0145 is slow response on sensor 3 of bank 1. That is usually a bad sensor.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
I replaced sensor 1 this past weekend dur to advance auto advice. If sensor 2 is bad would that throw off sensor 1. Also how would I go about testing sensor 1 to see if any of that stuff is wrong? I saw a YouTube video on how to test it with a multimeter, will that help?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Yes, you need to use a multimeter and test right at the sensor to eliminate wiring. The other one is bank 1 sensor 3
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
Ok tested
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 5:49 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
Ok tested the sensors have power and all wiring looks good. Fuse is fine too. It is still running rough though.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
It's apparent that you don't understand how an 0/2 works and how to test it so I suggest you go through youtube and find some videos that explain this.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
I tested it just like the videos show. I have checked the power to it and that is good from the harnes end. I applied heat like the videos to the sensor and all was good there. It was working fine. Now it seems like it is flooded when idling. So whatever the issue it seemed to get worse once I tested them.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 8:02 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Heat? I don't know what you were watching but you weren't testing an 0/2 signal.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 8:08 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides