Number two cylinder misfire

As that is a waste spark system that uses both ends of each coil for spark (1 and 4, 3 and 2) a quick test of the coil would be to reverse the #2 and #3 plug wires on that coil. If you now get a P0303 you know it's the coil because it's now not firing the plug on 3 but is firing the one on 2. If it stays the P0302 code then it's in that cylinder, either a valve or similar. Then it's time to do things like a compression test and a leakdown test.
I suspect you will find it's the coil. As for a resistance check, they don't show a test for the secondary side and if it was a primary side fault you would get a code for that and have 2 cylinders not operating.

Those fuel trims are very strange. If they are correct they show that engine running very rich. Ideally they should be running closer to zero. A negative number means they are pulling fuel away from the system. What is the tool you are using?

Swap the wires back and see if it returns. If it doesn't look close in the towers where the wires connect and see if the inserts are corroded or have another issue. It may still be a bad coil and moving the wires made it work but?

Normal. That is the spark looking for a ground. Not a good test though as you can damage the coil doing that.

The 302 code flashing is indicating it is a true misfire and constant. The light flashes to tell you that it could be doing damage to the converter due to the raw fuel going into it.

The compression numbers are a bit high, if it's running rich then that could be carbon build up, however I would also try a different scan tool to see if the trims agree with what you are seeing, most systems top out at -25 and anything above that triggers codes so I suspect the numbers may not be correct, that happens sometimes if a scan tool doesn't read data correctly on a particular vehicle. One of the reasons why most shops have 2 or more scan tools, they all have odd quirks.

Yes, all testing should be done on a warmed up engine, that assures the converters are working and the PCM is in control. The smoke is likely because the intake valve is open. If you are sure the engine is at top dead center on the compression stroke and still see smoke then you have a bad valve. However I doubt that as you don't show a misfire now for cylinder one.

190-200 is a bit high but as I said it could be carbon related. Doubt it's a head gasket as you have no signs of that. Closed loop is what you want the engine in once it warms up. That means the PCM is staying in control. One thing you could check is the PCV system, some have issues where they will get crud built up in them and then they start pulling in some oil and cause rapid carbon build up. The PCM will richen the mixture up in that case because the carbon acts like a sponge and pulls some fuel out of the mix. Then on ignition it burns and the PCM tries to compensate by removing fuel. It sounds like it runs okay, just needs a few tweaks to get it settled in. Is that a replacement engine? I see the lettering on the cover?
When you snap the throttle do you see the upstream sensor voltage change?

Okay, the fact that both drop means the converter is probably gone. It should sort of stay stable with the upstream dropping fast. If you're feeling a misfire but not setting a code I would try a different scan tool first, one that can read the misfire counters and show you which cylinder(s) is causing the problem. Especially as you should also have a converter code. From the plugs it's running rich and using some oil which may be why the converter is acting bad.

Was this a replacement engine for this car or is it the original? Asking because it's easy to get a wrong engine these days. It's also possible you have a timing issue but again the codes are not there which is why I would try a different scan tool.