I have a "squeal" from the front passenger side tire area

Tiny
LEXIE123
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 FORD EXPLORER
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,500 MILES
I have a "squeal" from the front passenger side tire area. It does not happen all the time (sometimes happens 1 trip a day, sometimes does not happen for days, sometimes starts and goes away during a ride, no consistency). It stops when brakes are pressed, but will start again when brakes are released. Also stops during a right turn, sometimes starts when turning left. More prevalent at lower speeds. Sounds like something rubs at each revolution - going very slow, sound intermittent with tire revolution. Higher speeds it sounds more consistent. When it happens, it is very loud. 2 garages could not find problem. One thought it was the front wheel bearing. The second said the wheel bearing is fine, thought maybe it was the struts, but wasn't sure. Neither found a brake issue.
Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 6:32 AM

29 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If the noise was not happening when they looked at it then I suspect they just missed it. However, due to it going away when pressing the brakes and the type of noise you are hearing, I suspect the brakes are dragging on that side. In other words, I think the pads are pressing slightly too hard on the rotor and it is causing a noise. Due to it going away when they are pressed would be the biggest reason for this.

This could be caused by a couple different things. First is the caliper pins sticking not allowing the caliper to fully relax. Second is the caliper itself is not returning the piston. Lastly the brake line is swelling not allowing the fluid to return when the pedal is released.

Based on what you are seeing, I would think the first maybe the second cause of this as the last would be more consistent.

I would remove the calipers then clean and lubricate the pins so that we are sure that is not the issue.

I attached and circled the pins in each picture. Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Saturday, September 19th, 2020 AT 6:46 AM
Tiny
BILL DRUMM
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  • 1 POST
  • 2008 FORD EXPLORER
  • 123,000 MILES
My fiancee took her car in for brakes in Dec. They told her she needed front pads and rotors. Now, four months later, we discover they never replaced the rotors, even though they said they did, and she paid them for it. They replaced the pads only. After complaining about it, they agrred to make it right. They changed the rotors, but left the same pads on! These are the pads they installed in Dec. Which now have 14000 miles on them! Is it acceptable to put new brake rotors on and not replace the pads?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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If the pad linings are still good with no excessive uneveness, it is aceptable. However it would be good to give it a little breaking-in periode for the pads to even out while driving during this period, avoid hard brakings.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PBRMEE
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  • 2006 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35,000 MILES
I need to replace front pads. I have it down to removing capier but I cant get the pads to come off how do I remove?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Replacing brakes isn't too hard to do. First, here is a link that explains in general how it's done. You can use these as a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_______________________________________________________

2006 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E
Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Procedures Front
FRONT
Brake Pads

Material

pic 1

pic 2

pic 3

Removal

WARNING: Use of any other than approved DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid will cause permanent damage to brake components and will render the brakes inoperative. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

WARNING: Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.

1. Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If required, remove brake fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is 1/2 full.

2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.

3. CAUTION: Do not pry in the brake caliper sight hole to retract the pistons as this can damage the pistons and boots.

CAUTION: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur.

Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and position the brake caliper aside.
Support the caliper using mechanic's wire.

4. CAUTION: Install new brake pads if they are worn past the specified thickness above the metal backing plate or rivets. Install new brake pads in complete axle sets.

Inspect the brake pads for wear and contamination.
5. Inspect the brake disc, machine or install a new front brake disc as necessary.
6. Remove the brake pads and clips.
Discard the clips.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other containments to contact the pad lining material. Do not install contaminated pads.

NOTE: One brake disc pad kit contains the pads and pad clips required for both sides.

Install the new brake pad clips and the brake pads.

pic 4

2. CAUTION: Protect the piston and boots when pushing the caliper piston into the caliper piston bores.

Using a suitable tool and a worn brake pad, compress the disc brake caliper pistons into the caliper.
3. Position the brake caliper and install the 2 bolts.
Tighten to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
5. Test the brakes for normal operation.

______________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MELBOURNE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD EXPLORER
Brakes problem
2003 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Is it usual to replace both pads and rotors at 60,000 miles? I get that the pads need to be replaced but I thought the rotors would last much, much longer. Thanks!
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
The rotors wear with the pads, and since they are made thinner, so they wiegh less, they are changed pretty much when the pads are, few places machine rotors or drums anymore.60,000 is actually higher than this stuff usually lasts.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LOCAL YOCAL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
I recently took my Explorer in to the shop to get all 4 brake pads replaced. The mechanic took me out in the garage to show me what was going on and the uneven wear of the front brake pads. The back were wearing evenly, but the front pads were wearing thinner on one end over the other. I was told 1 of the pistons on the caliper was sticking more then the other and that was the reason. He advised me to fix this he could bleed the brakes and rebuild the calipers. The mechanic said without doing all this, and just replacing the brake pads, they would start squeaking. My brakes were not squeaking before so why would they now? And the calipers looked just find. Is the slight uneven wear on the front pads just due more stopping pressure applied to the front? It sounded like I was being bamboozled.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
What happens over time is the brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture, it will do this even thru the piston seal! So eventually this produces a brown collection of crud, it builds up in the lowest part of the system, and that happens to be the calipers! Now when enough of this stuff builds up behind the piston, it causes a stuck or non retracting piston. This is where the uneven wear comes from. It is NOT unussal to replace calipers on a vehicle with 80,000 miles. Or sooner!
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
R_WIXSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD EXPLORER
I was wondering if you could tell me what would be the best performance brakes and pads to get for my vehicle. Thans r_wixson
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,414 POSTS
Hi:
For my own cars, I always get the cheapest I can find that have a life time warranty. However, ceramic pads will last you the longest and work the best. However, they are hard on brake rotors. You will most likely go through rotors everytime you replace pads.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SJERROLL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 143,000 MILES
Hello I have a 1996 ford explorer xlt. The truck needed front brakes so I brought some front brake pads and let my friend put them on. My friend puts on the pads backwards and messed up my brake caliper on the passenger side. So I replaced the caliper and now the brake pedal is going all the way to the floor and the truck is still not slowing down. Another mechanically inclined person in my neighborhood looked at the brake lines and started bleeding the fronts brakes. That still didn't help. Now no fluid is coming out the lines. Could the master cylinder be bad? Please help me out. Asap. Thanks. Ps, my name is jerroll.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICKMAR
  • MECHANIC
  • 170 POSTS
Hi jerroll;
Sorry to read about your brake problems.

All you need to do is bleed your brakes. What that means is , you will be getting rid of any "AIR" that is in your brake lines. After any air has been removed you will have brake lines filled with pure (DOT 3) brake fluid. Bleeding is just removing any air that are in the brake lines.- Easy to do.

Get some DOT 3 brake fluid.
Fill the master cylinder pictured below to the "MAX" line indicator on the side with DOT 3 brake fluid'
The master cylinder is located on the drivers side under the hood, right near the fire wall and fender. It looks like this:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/433905_master_cylinder_1.jpg



You will need "someone" to push several times on the brake pedal and hold it to the floor. It is called "Pumping the Brakes".

Now "you" or someone needs to release any air that are in the brake lines. This is done by slightly and slowly loosening "BRAKE LINE BLEEDER" pictured in the image below.

https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/433905_Brake_bleeder_copy_1.jpg[/img]

You want to slightly loosen that "BRAKE BLEEDER" releasing all the air. Tighten the bleeder and have the brake pedal pumped again and held down completely as far as it will go. Loosen the bleeder again and release any air that is in the brake line. Have the brake pedal pumped again and held down as far as it will go loosen and then tighten the bleeder. Do the same as many times as you need until pure brake fluid and brake fluid "only" flows out of the small hole on top- you can see it in the image.
Once fluid and fluid only is flowing out tighten the "BRAKE BLEEDER". Do the same on the other side front. After any air is removed from your brake lines you will have solid brake fluid in the brake lines. The brake pedal should not travel very far for the brakes to start working properly. When you apply the brakes the pedal should be nice and solid.
That's it - you are all set.

Be safe working under your explorer.
Make sure it is being supported very securely.
"Do Not" take any chances, there is no room for any "instant rewind's" ...if something goes wrong under there you or someone else could get seriously injured.
Good Luck;
Any questions just get back to me.
Rick
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIWILSON
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  • 1 POST
  • 1991 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES
I have replaced the front brake pads/rotors/caliper multiple times after less than 5K miles. I even took the vehicle to a mechanic who stated that the problem was being caused by a "gunked" up RABS valve which I had him replaced along with the rear shoes and drums turned, only to have the brakes wear out again. In less than 2K miles and no visable wear on the rear brakes. What else could be causing this? This also seems to be evident on a 1990 Ford Ranger with the same setup.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JNOVACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 723 POSTS
Check the brake line the flexable one going to the front brakes they may be cloged or turned and couseing a clog and not letting the brake fluid go back to resivor to release the brakes all the way
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GEORGIA_BUNNY69
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • FORD EXPLORER
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer XLS 4 door 2 wheel drive with 73,000 miles and a v6 4.0 ohc motor. I had to replace the right rotor with a new one, and I replaced both front brake pads, which work fine. But when I start to take off or when I tested them and got up some speed my truck started to vibrate. Any help with this problem is appreciated. The truck never vibrated before changing the brakes.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
My guess is that the side that you did replace is either warped or not setting on the hub flush. Somtimes you get a new warped rotor. Rare, but possible. Should replace both rotors.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GEORGIA_BUNNY69
  • MEMBER
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Thanks but I found out the problem once I replaced my right rotor because it was so bad I had to also replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. But thanks for the help
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
There is somthing wrong here. That truck doesn't have an inner and outer wheel bearing. It has a wheel bearing that is part of the hub assy.

Whoever did the work should show you the old ones.

This is what you said: "the truck never vibrated before changing the brakes." Therefore the wheel bearings should have nothing to do with your vibration. I think somthing wasn't done right on the brake job the first time and someone's screw up was covered up afterwards.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREGROSS823
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • FORD EXPLORER
Hello everyone. Last night, I changed my front brakes and rotors (probably about the 7th or 8th time in my life that I have changed them, so I'm not a complete rookie).I have a 2000 Ford Explorer sport. Everything seemed fine, except last night, when I took it for a spin around the block, I noticed that whenever I turned, I felt a pretty good vibration/shaking on the front of my truck. I took the wheels off again, made sure everything seemed tight, put them back on, and went for another ride. Same thing happened. This morning, on the way to work, whenever I hit a slight bump in the thruway (and I mean slight), my truck started shaking violently. As soon as I slowed it down to about 25-30 mph, the vibration went away. I was able to get the truck back up to 55 mph and the truck didn't shake again. Until I hit another bump. Whats going on? Please help!
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)

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