New Parking brake cables all around, tightened, but still won't fully stop truck

Tiny
CHEVYSILVERADO93
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 0.5L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 304,000 MILES
I rebuilt the drum brakes with new springs and adjusters, and all new cables, and tightened them up. I did not pit on new pads or drums, as the pads have a lot of material left, and the condition of the pads and drums looks acceptable but not great. I tightened the cables, very tight with parking brake pedal high, and it goes almost to the floor, but doesn't fully stop vehicle from moving under gas. I suspect that I need to replace the pads and drums, which I should have done, but am very low income (doing the work myself). Otherwise the brakes seem to work well, but that might be the front disks doing most of the work as they are under 3 years old. Parking brake is the concern, for passing inspection. Thanks for any info.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 7:17 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Most braking is done by front not rear. However if you don't have the adjuster correct in drum it won't work properly. The brakes have to be adjusted as well to just touch the drum where it will still spin. Recheck your work and try readjusting the brakes
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 7:32 AM
Tiny
CHEVYSILVERADO93
  • MEMBER
I was very careful to make sure everything was correct, but there is no way to adjust the adjuster through the back, it seems it has to be adjusted by backing up slowly while applying the brakes. I just picked up new pads and will put those in and try again. Thanks.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
You have to punch the piece out in backing plate to access the adjuster and it will spin in one direction. There are 3 different types of rear brakes so hopefully I sent the correct one.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 9:20 AM
Tiny
CHEVYSILVERADO93
  • MEMBER
No you didn't send the right one, the chevy c1500, 2 wheel drive, is similar, but simpler. There were two rubber plugs about half way down the backing plate near the outside edge, but they don't come close to lining up with the adjuster. But I will look to see if I can punch out the piece of the backing, that would make a big difference if so, Thanks, that might be the key.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 9:24 AM
Tiny
CHEVYSILVERADO93
  • MEMBER
I pulled it apart and there is no way or piece to punch out to access the adjuster, so I assume you have to set it up right before you put the drum on. But the arm that goes over the adjust wheel teeth does not lock over it, it can flop around, move in to engage the teeth on the adjuster wheel, or out. Is the top spring that connects the two brake shoes supposed to cover that arm and hold it on the teeth? Thanks again.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
CHEVYSILVERADO93
  • MEMBER
On these brakes there is no adjusting screw spring (none in new spring kit either) and the large spring that holds the brake pads at the top is the only one near it, with a small spring that pulls the arm that engages the teeth of the adjusting wheel. I'll check the Chilton's manual again, but it would make sense for the large upper spring to cover that arm to hold it in place.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 11:51 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If this is what you have the adjustment is where arrow is pointed for initial parking and brake adjustment which must be made with drum off. Yo need to measure at center of drum and shoe to get it close so drum would need to be turned.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
CHEVYSILVERADO93
  • MEMBER
Yes, that's the right one. I read the Chiltons manual again and figured out what you said, adjust w drum off. Thanks for the reference point, I think I've got it now.
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Monday, January 11th, 2016 AT 2:32 PM

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