Car will start but will not stay running

Tiny
ROBERT DELMORE
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 FORD MUSTANG
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 56,000 MILES
I have the car listed above with an Edelbrock supercharger. I slipped a rod put a hole in the engine block and had to replace the engine. I did so, and now when I attempt to start the car it will not stay running for longer than two or three seconds. My engine light is on and keeps giving me codes.
My codes are:
P0223
P2104
P2111
P2112
P2135

Can anyone help me to resolve this issue?
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2016 AT 8:58 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
These codes all deal with throttle position sensor and throttle actuator control. One says stuck open and the other says stuck closed. Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. It may be due to you blowing engine up partly or throttle plate is binding or wired wrong somehow. See picture for causes. You might try erasing codes and see if it straightens out.
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2016 AT 9:41 AM
Tiny
DEBWRITE
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD MUSTANG
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 69,000 MILES
Just had the clutch replaced on the stang. Now, car seems to be driving rough and the idle is rugged. Shifting into first after idling at a light is a crapshoot - will the car die? Once it gets going, though, it's all good. I feel like I recently got some bad gas. Is there anything I can do short of putting it back in the shop for a week? Add a gas additive?
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNEST CLARK
  • EXPERT
First, is your check engine light coming on? If so, that's the place to start. Have your computer scanned and get back with me with the codes. I'll help you from there. (AutoZone will do this for free)

If you believe you have gotten some bad gas, you could either let the tank run completely empty or put in a bottle of Heet with a full tank.

And your recent clutch replacement doesn't necessarily mean it's related to your current issue.

And honestly, yours doesn't sound like a fuel related issue. If it were poor gas, weak pump, clogged filter or bad injector, the engine wouldn't smooth out once you get up to speed. It would be even worse and probably refuse to accelerate. (A leaking FPR may make the engine run rough at idle but smooth out at speed)

You could check your plugs to see how each of your cylinders are firing. (Let your engine idle roughly for 5-10 minutes then pull the plugs. This'll tell you if one of the cylinders is misfiring)

The best thing to do is have a drivability test performed with a Ford scanner. This will completely open up all of the computers monitors. And a knowledgeable technician will be able to interpret the data and easily make a fix. But of course that won't be free like AutoZone.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.6L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 73,865 MILES
Hello, I am having trouble with my car without warning it has stopped working. It will Start and then run for 3-5 seconds then stop. My code reader reader does not pick up any codes.
I also changed the fuel filter because it had low pressure, I now have good pressure. Here is a list of things I have tried: using a different set of keys, tried holding the key over (it shut off then tried to restart), and I reset the cars computer. Nothing has worked. Need some help.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello,

Does the security light flash while you are cranking the engine over? Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

This guide will help us get started fixing it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
No the security light does not flash. I have uploaded a video of me starting it.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
If there are no codes it sounds like the PCM is bad. When it shuts off can you turn the key off and then it starts again and does the same thing? Also can you here the fuel pump running when the engine stalls? If so I would try a used PCM here is the location and how to change it out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
I tried a few things. I unplugged the fuel pressure sensor, turned on the ignition and did a scan I got a p0193 code. So I m getting codes, plugged it back in and cleared the codes. So would the PCM still be a problem? I can hear the fuel pump before starting and after it has stalled.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
My fuel pressure reaches 40 psi on start up, after it stalls it slowly reduces to 32 psi after several minutes. It regains the pressure when the ignition is turned on.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Fuel pressure range is 35-55 psi so 40 is marginally good. The three second issue sounds like a PCM triggered shut down, what is the oil pressure with it running? Has anything been changed or added prior to the problem? Like a tune up or radio or anything like that? Still the original dash?
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
I unplugged the airflow sensor now it purrs. I just cleaned the reusable filter last fall. Do you have any ideas as to what else would cause these problems. Now that I have unplugged it I have the engine light on and my code reader is picking it up as well. Codes P0113 and P0109. However I got nothing with it plugged in. Could it be just a bad sensor?
I ll be cleaning the air filter just in case anyways.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
MAF being bad would usually cause it to revert to stored settings like it does when you unplugged it. However it could be shorted and dropping the 12 volt power out so the PCM shuts down to protect itself. You can check that with a voltmeter and a couple of connections. First go to the EVAP purge valve in the engine compartment, it should have light green with black stripe and red with yellow striped wires. Unplug it and probe the red w yellow wire. With the key on it should have battery voltage as it is a power feed for this and other components including the PCM. Plug the MAF in and see if the voltage drops. Next find the TPS on the throttle body, it should have Brown w white, Gray w white and a Gray w Red wires. With the MAF unplugged probe the Gray w Red wire. This is the sensor return AKA ground. It should have very close to zero volts on it with the key on, does it change when the MAF is plugged in?
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
Battery voltage with the key on is 12.07
Voltage at the EVAP with the MAF unplugged 11.95 V.
EVAP with MAF plugged in 11.94 V.
TPS with MAF unplugged 93.96 mv.
TPS with MAF plugged in 97.2 mv.
Also I started the car with the MAF unplugged, then plugged it back in and scanned the car for intake temp and MAF rate. Results Intake temperature 23 degrees Celsius, MAF rate 0 g/s. I m still thinking faulty sensor What is your opinion?
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
MAF rate 0 g/s isn't a good sign. If you shut it off, then restart does that change? How about if you rev it up? If no or very marginal change it is likely a bad MAF.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JW MUSTANG02
  • MEMBER
I replaced the MAF now she starts up and runs just fine. Thank you for your help.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
You are welcome. Please return anytime with your automotive questions.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALSUE123
  • MEMBER
  • FORD MUSTANG
I have a 2005 mustang v6. Manual transmission.
I cannot drive the car because when I start it. It will not REV up. No response from throttle when pushed.

Anyone know what the heck is wrong?
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
  • MEMBER
Any check engine light? All the linkage pieces still in working order? Nothing unhooked? Have you checked operation of the throttle body? Remove the air hose and check operation of the butterfly valve to verify it's actually moving? Any chance warranty is still active? Remember a lot of the emission parts are covered for like 8 yrs 80k miles I think. Not quite 100% on that figure.
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-1
Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
99SALEENSHEEP
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD MUSTANG
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 145,000 MILES
I have a 2001 Bullitt mustang, 4.6L SOHC. The car sputters a little then when I press down the pedal it clears up. When coming to a stop the car dies out. When I start the car back up it dies again unless I give it gas. Usually only happens when the engine has been warmed up. I've replaced IAC, TPS, EGR valve, EGR vacuum regulator, DPFE sensor, Crank position sensor. I've cleaned my air filter, MAF sensor, throttle body, and intake. I've checked for vacuum and exhaust leaks, none. Checked oxygen sensors, readings within spec. Fuel trims are a little high. Replaced spark plugs. Rebuilt injectors. Cleaned fuel system. New fuel filter and fuel pump. Ohm tested coils, all are good. Idle set screw is a base idle. No smoke from exhaust. Intermittent misfire code on cylinder 6. No other codes. Stumped on problem.
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
  • EXPERT
Id do a compression test on the engine as the next step. Pay special attention to cylinder 6 compression. Also check the reading on the crank and cam sensors on the data stream. Check for erratic behavior. Then check the wires and plugs to those sensors as well
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Friday, June 26th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)

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