Engine misfiring I think it could be a coil?

It is possible you need a tune up but it could be a fuel injector as well we should run the codes to see what's going on first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down these guides and report back.

About a month ago the engine got hot due to a slow water leak. More recently while driving the engine started missing, the computer code is for a cylinder 2 misfire. Changing the plug, wire, and the injector have not fixed the problem. Is it possible or common that the head gasket went bad and is flooding the cylinder?

It is common for the coil to go out this video will help you fix it

https://youtu.be/iDgXwKA-IIc

Please run down this guide and report back.

It turns out that the problem was with the multi-pack coil. Replacing the coil pack fixed the problem. Thanks for the video :)

I have a 2000 Ford Taurus DOHC. Today it started to chug when I start it or go to slow down to a stop. When driving it at a steady speed and then let off the gas the car does not slow down as if the gas has not left up. I can step on the brake and slow it down and then when it gets to about 1.5 rpm you feel the gas let up and the cars rpms drop dramatically and when going to stop it chugs then. There is also now a low pitched squealing/whistling sound that started with this problem.
HELP!!!

Has the check engine light come on? Also, can you tell aprox where the noise is coming from?

thanks for responding but I got it fixed...it was a hose that had come off I think to some valve they said

Most likely something causing a vacuum leak. Maybe to the EGR or PCV.

Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

Our Car, 99 Ford Taurus 3.0L 6 Cylinder EFI Vulcan Engine, has a real bad miss in the engine. The Check engine light said it might be our fuel injectors misfiring or malfunctioning. A mechanic pinpointed 2 non working injectors and we replaced them. However, although it does in a LITTLE smoother, it still has a real hard miss and tends to shut off when not accelerating, especially during turns. Someone said it might be the Catalytic converter, but I'm not sure.

you need to have someone who will look at it and not guess. start with a compression test. check the plugs, wires, coil and then the injectors. it could also have vacuum leaks that could cause this.
in other words, you need a shop with good techs to point you in the right direction without replacing parts needlessly.

Roy

1999 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Automatic 208000 miles
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My car is missing (usually when lightly accelerating or going slow). I had it scanned and the DTC 's were P0401 and P1401 and said it was the EGR valve, would that valve cause it to miss so badly? If so do I need to replace it or just clean it?

Hi bcardwell,

Yes, the EGR can cause midfiring at below 2,000 rpm with slight acceleration.

When a code is recorded, the item in question usually requires replacement unless source is from electrical.

Thank you very much for your help!

1999 Ford Taurus, 96,500 miles, 24 Valve DOHC 3 Liter V6 engine.
My Taurus occasionally idles rough or misfires when driving or sitting still. The check engine light is not on. I used dry gas and the problem seemed to clear up. After a few more tanks of gas the problem returned. I then used Gum Out total gas system cleaner thinking a fuel injector may be clogged. This also seemed to help, however, the intermittant misfires or idle jumps returned. I have tried other gas stations and higher octane, however, the problem still occurs. The Ford dealership placed the car on their diagostic computer and everything checked out ok with no error codes. The transmission is ok. The spark plugs and wires were replaced at 90,000 miles. The Ford serviceman said to bring the car back when the problem gets worse. He said possibly I may have a wiring problem or short circuit somewhere. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks.

Is the problem only occuring during idleing? Or also while driving? If only at idle, try cleaning the Idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttle body and has a connector on it, two 8mm bolts hold it on,. Be careful removing it unless you buy a new gasket! Use gumout to clean it and just a rag, no Gumout in the throttle! Teflon coating can be damaged if you use the wrong cleaning solvent! You may need to replace the IAC!

merlin2021
The problem occurs "occasionally" during both idleing and while driving. I state "occasionally" since one day it may not occur at all, especially after the time I added drygas. I could try cleaning the idle air control valve however based on your response I am concerned about damaging the gasket. Do you have an internet link that shows a photo of this valve? Is it possible a fuel ejector may be clogged eventhough the Ford diagnostic computer indicated it was fine? Thanks.

I'm having trouble with it I guess, this was posted by an old Ford troubleshooter...try it and see what happens...HELLO! Let me take a stab at this. relatively cheap test/possible fix. take it to repair shop and raise it in the air. remove the shield that covers the bottom of the radiator and a/c condenser. with a bright light..look up between the rad. and cond. i'm sure you will see what looks like a thin blanket covering the rad. fins. have the poor tech create a tool using a 24in metal fuel line and his blow gun. on the blow gun..remove the OSHA approved restricting tube. take the fuel line and cut one flare off and remove the flare nut as well.leave the other flare and nut intact. flatten and pinch off the cut end. then use a hacksaw to create a right angle outlet on the cut/crimped end.only cut 1/3 the way through. attatch the tube to the blow gun. yes they are different threads but the metal flare nut will cut new threads. he now has a new money-making tool. connect to air hose and insert between rad. and cond. blow first toward the eng. through the rad. fins and stand back because stuff will fly. then have him blow back through the cond. fins. once again..stand back because sand will fly out. because of the relatively small but concentrated air flow at 100psi this tool will remove your blanket,improve your a/c performance and keep your engine running cooler. what i believe is happening is...now follow me..it's hot outside..so you run the a/c that creates heat..you are at highway speed more heat but also more cooling airflow being forced through the rad. fins because of your speed..you start to slow down..less airflow..the fuel in the fuel rail starts to boil(yes i said boil) your injectors are now getting bubbles instead of fuel..your engine stumbles and maybe dies..your engine cools some..it restarts because of no bubbles..you go back to slower driving speeds..runs good. print this out for the tech. don't let them tell you that the rad. has to come out for proper cleaning..don't let them use water pressure through the cond. this causes a hard mudpack if you don't already have one. if you do..spray water up between the rad. and cond. and wait 10mins before using the air tool.if they charge you more than 1hr labor they are ripping you off. please get back to me with your results

My wife drives the Ford and indicated that it drove terrible yesterday. Yesterday we had rain downpours and 50 to 60 degree temperatures. The idle seemed to "misfire" or jerk more often than usual. She said the engine also stalled once. Now I'm not sure if I have a radiator debris problem. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks.

Still no codes? Cleaning the radiator will not hurt...even if it's not the answer...make sure the plug on the Crank sensor is on tight...MAP, MAF, and vacumm leaks can also cause your symtoms. Unplug the MAF see if it improves. If it does you can try cleaning the heated wire with alcohol and a q-tip, or replacing it. Check for vacuum leaks with a can of spray gumout, spray around the intake, and vac lines, if the idle changes, you found a leak.

My car is running rough...it is underpowered and not running on 6 cylinders. It idles rough.I replaced the plugs and checked the spark and it looks weak...it looks orange. How can I fix this. Some one mentioned it could be the coil pack, so you agree or could it be something else.

It suppose to be a snapping blue spark-sounds like the coil is weak-test the primary and secondary winding resistances

it could be the coils or coil pack .. depending on which system your vehicle has ?

Models Equipped With Coil Pack(s)
The EI system consists of a Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, coil pack(s), related wiring and PCM. The CKP sensor is used by the PCM to indicate crankshaft position and speed by sensing a missing tooth on a pulse wheel mounted on front of crankshaft. The coil pack(s) receives its signal from the PCM to fire at a calculated spark target. Each coil within the pack fires 2 spark plugs at the same time. The plugs are paired so one plug is fired on the compression stroke, and the other plug fires the mating cylinder, which is on the exhaust stroke. On the next cycle, firing strategy is reversed.
The PCM acts as an electronic switch to ground in the coil primary circuit. When the switch is closed, positive battery voltage applied to the coil primary circuit builds a magnetic field around the primary coil. When the switch opens, power is interrupted and the primary field collapses inducing high voltage in the secondary coil winding and the spark plug is fired.

Models Equipped With Coil On Plugs (COPs)
The EI system consists of a Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, individual COPs mounted directly on the spark plugs, related wiring and PCM. The CKP sensor is used by the PCM to indicate crankshaft position and speed by sensing a missing tooth on a pulse wheel mounted on front of crankshaft. The CMP sensor is used by the PCM to identify when piston No. 1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. This signal is used to synchronize firing of individual coils.
The coils receive their signal from the PCM to fire at a calculated spark target. Only one coil is fired at a time and only on the compression stroke. The PCM acts as an electronic switch to ground in the coil primary circuit. When the switch is closed, battery voltage applied to the coil primary circuit builds a magnetic field around the primary coil. When the switch opens, power is interrupted and the primary field collapses, inducing high voltage in the secondary coil winding and the spark plug is fired.