Knock Sensor location

Tiny
BOBBIJOSCARBORO
  • 2000 MERCURY VILLAGER

Engine Mechanical problem 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles

I am very discourages and frustrated however I really need answers. Here goes
About 6 months ago I began having problems with my car skipping. I took it in to get the spark plugs and spark plug wires changed. After this, the skipping stopped for about 2 weeks then started again. My mechanic said this would be the spark plugs buy maybe the wires so I paid to have them replaced a second time. This helped for about 2 more weeks. The van starts skipping again, this time the check engine lights comes on and is flashing on and off. It does do it all the time only when the car is skipping/hesitating (btw the van is not skipping/hesitating all the time - only on occasion - maybe once every 2 to 3 days). I take the car in once again after the skipping causes the van to stall out. This time the mechanic calls me back and says the computer is reading bad knock sensor and that spark 5 is misfiring. He tells me that it is going to cost me close to $700.00 to replace the knock sensor HOWEVER this will not guarantee that the skipping/hesitations will stop. He explained that he was not sure how a "sensor" would cause the car's engine to skip.
So I take the van to another mechanic in hopes for a second opinion. He tells me the same thing.I can replace the knock sensor but it just doesn't make sense that a sensor would cause skipping or hesitation.
Frustrated and hopeless, I now take the van to a Ford dealership. They have my van for 2 weeks, they keep calling me telling me they cannot find out what is going on with the van. They hook it up to the computer and they said that spark 5 is misfiring and the knock sensor is bad, however let us keep looking because this just does not make sense. They told me that Nissan is actually the company that made the Mercury Villager so they would need to research some more. They call me back and tell me that one of my spark plug wires has water in it and this is what is causing the misfire and the reason it took so long to find this is because the sparks are numbered backwards on the villager. I immediately asked them where is the water coming from cause I was concerned that I had a cracked head. They said there was no issue with the head, that my seal was bad on my hood and that is where the water was probably coming from (which made no sense to me because I park my van in a garage - it never sits in the rain). I pick the van up and it is running great! No skipping or hesitation and the check engine light is not on. I have the van for one month and then completely out of the blue driving down the road one day the van starts jerking like it has become possessed. It does this for about 2 miles and then completely stops. No lights are coming on or anything. Later that night, I get in the car, drive about 2 miles and the jerking starts again. So bad to the point of make lots of noises because it is shaking everything and everyone in the car. Again, no dash lights are flashing on or anything. I am scared at this point to drive the van so I pay to have it towed to a different mechanic. He calls me today and says the computer says the knock sensor is bad.I am so frustrated I do not know what to do.I tell him my whole story of what the other mechanics have said in the past about this not being a knock sensor problem and he says different. He says that it can cause the van to jerk. Can you please help me?

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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 1:04 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
DAVE H
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Hello. Thanks for the donation. Much appreciated

The symptoms your describing sound exactly like a faulty MAF (mass airflow) sensor would cause. This should set it's own fault code. But not always?

TEST DG: KNOCK SENSOR (KS)
Diagnostic Aids
Perform this test only when directed by QUICK TEST. This test is intended to diagnose the following:
Knock Sensor (KS)
Harness Circuit: KS
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
To prevent replacement of good components, be aware the following non-EEC related areas may be at fault:
Poor Fuel Quality
Ignition Timing
Engine Mechanical Condition
CIRCUIT PIN IDENTIFICATION
CircuitPCM Pin No. Wire Color
KS63White
GND45Black/Red

NOTE:Freeze frame data will not be stored in the ECM for the knock sensor. The MIL will not light for a knock sensor malfunction.

DTC P0325

DTC P0325 indicates that spark knock has occurred and knock sensor failed to detect. Possible causes for this fault are as follows:
PCM not receiving signal.
Open or short in harness.
Faulty knock sensor.
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM. Disconnect knock sensor in-line connector. Measure resistance of KS signal circuit (White wire) between PCM connector terminal No. 63 and KS in-line connector. Measure resistance of GND circuit (Black/Red wire) between PCM harness connector terminal No. 45 and KS in-line connector. If resistances are less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistances are more than 5 ohms, repair open in White or Black/Red wires. See Fig. 11. See CIRCUIT PIN IDENTIFICATION table.
Check KS Circuit For Short To Ground

Disconnect PCM. Disconnect KS in-line connector. Measure resistance of KS circuit between PCM connector terminal No. 63 (White wire) and GND terminal No. 45 (Black/Red wire). If resistance is more than 10 k/ohms, go to next step. If resistance is less than 10 k/ohms, repair short circuit in wiring.
Fig. 11: Identifying KS Sensor Connector Terminals
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Check KS Circuits For Short To Power

Disconnect PCM. Disconnect KS in-line connector. Measure resistance of KS circuit between PCM connector terminal No. 63 (White wire) and VPWR terminals No. 66 and 97 (Black/White wires). Measure resistance between PCM connector terminal No. 63 (White wire) and KAPWR terminal No. 80 (Yellow wire). If each resistance measurement is more than 10 k/ohms, go to next step. If each resistance measurement is less than 10 k/ohms, repair short circuit in wiring.
Check Resistance Of KS

Ensure KS in-line connector is disconnected. Measure resistance between KS connector terminal White wire and ground. If resistance is 500-620 k/ohms, replace PCM. If resistance is not 500-620 k/ohms, replace knock sensor.

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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
BOBBIJOSCARBORO
  • MEMBER

Hi Dave H,
Thank you for your quick response, however I am not a mechanic so this is quite confusing to me. Should I have the MAF sensor replaced or should I have them to do all of the stuff below that?

Confused,
Bobbi

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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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I would have them do the knock sensor test's as you keep getting knock sensor fault codes. But I would also have them check the MAF sensor is working correctly this can only be done using a diagnostic scanner reading live data values. Or you could always try replacing the MAF sensor?

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Saturday, March 13th, 2010 AT 3:17 AM
Tiny
GARROWCUSTOMGUITARS
  • MEMBER

Actually, while it makes no sense, the water is the problem. I had the EXACT same symptoms and I fashioned a piece of plastic to shield the no1 plug (where my problem was) and it has never occurred again

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Wednesday, December 29th, 2010 AT 11:14 PM
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER

I have a 99 mercury villager and the knock sensor code has always been there. I am replacing it by using the method of buying the sensor--and on the front of the engine just below the distributor is a perfect tapped hole sitting there. You cut the white wire (4 down in the harness)--which leads to the internal sensor taking it out of the system and attach the wire to the new one. The harness plug in that plugs into the sensor has to be purchased even if ordered. You then attach the ground wire to an appropriate location. Keep in mind to replace the sensor--they are going to want thousands because they have to take apart the engine. This method is perfectly fine and acceptable and done by anyone that is not rich. The thickness of the sensor is.780--more than 3/4. The tapped hole is metric. M8--1.25 X 30 mm. The 30 mm designates how much thread. If shorter the threads will barely engage one or 2 DO NOT USE 5/16--18 which is VERY CLOSE to the metric. Get that exact metric SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW at home depot. Here is the part number for the plug in harness you will need CARQUEST BY BWD PIGTAIL S28423 You will need to cut slots in it

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Saturday, June 3rd, 2017 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
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Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken

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Tuesday, June 6th, 2017 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
  • 2000 MERCURY VILLAGER
  • 199,000 MILES

What is the correct part number for a knock sensor for this vehicle? There are so many on the internet and the prices are all over the map! I want to make sure I get the right part so, I can fix it right the first time.

Frustrated
Thanks

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Tuesday, June 6th, 2017 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
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Your local autostore should be able to fix you up. Different parts suppliers use different part numbers. I looked at a napa parts book, online, for the knock sensor, it gave this part number, ATM8470716

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Tuesday, June 6th, 2017 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNHOLMES
  • 2000 MERCURY VILLAGER
  • 230,000 MILES

How to repair knock sensor and about, how much will it cost?

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Tuesday, June 6th, 2017 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
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You replace it and it should be 30 to 60 dollars. Do you need to know where it is? If so get back to me with which engine you have and I will look it up.

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Tuesday, June 6th, 2017 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER

I want to refine my answer on the knock sensor and will try to attach the photo. The correct wire is FOUR SPACESBUT ITS THE THIRD WIRE DOWN. NOTE PHOTO The knock sensor is $13 + $3 shipping $16.02 delivered to your mailbox. Just returned the one back to the parts store--GOT $107 ! Put back on my card

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Tuesday, June 6th, 2017 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
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Nice! Great info :) please visit anytime Jeff.

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Wednesday, June 7th, 2017 AT 8:21 AM
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER

I want to further refine my replies to this thread. I finished the knock sensor bypass fix and worked perfect and a video is already on youtube for it. I ESPECIALLY want to note that the bad item was indeed the knock sensor which was toasted totally out--checking out as "open circuit" from it having been that way for years and giving alot of extraneous codes for stuff I kept replacing which turns out WERE FINE. "Throttle position--cam shaft position sensor" etc they all went out instantly when I bolted down and connected the new sensor. Over the years people had kept saying "if its the knock sensor its going to set off various bad codes that "come and go mysteriously"--however at that time I knew it required taking apart the engine so I kept driving with it till I found out about the fix for less than $50. I still had "crankshaft position sensor"--however that was because the sensor was loose and the connector all ruined and not making contact as well. I used the same connector modification to fashion a new plug in--tightened down the sensor by going in from the front with 10mm deep socket and extension--plugged in the fixed connector--ALL codes were gone for the first time in 5 years. Took it in for emissions and it passed perfect! IF SOMEONE KNOWS WHY THEY DO NOT SELL THE PLUGIN FOR KNOCK SENSOR--PLEASE SAY SOMETHING. My feeling is that its such a high profit fix to take apart the engine that they want to make sure the person hits items such as missing connectors that cant be bought BECAUSE THEY DONT WANT THE PUBLIC TO BE ABLE TO FIX IT. The connector turns out fits alot of items on the vehicle so I am uploading a picture how the connector looks after you get it and snap off the plastic shroud. It goes fast--just a few minutes then it helps to use a file to file off the remnants of the plastic collar still sticking out a bit. It only needs to be filed a bit so that it enters the socket. I went to such lengths on this post since this is a nightmare for everyone now that they only hook up to the computer for codes for emissions testing. Im getting another of the plugs today since they plug into most of the devices on the vehicle for ohms testing--also a big problem in the community where they often say "your better off taking it out to test it"

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Sunday, June 11th, 2017 AT 7:39 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
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Nice work again Jeff, This will help many people with this problem.

Cheers! Ken

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Monday, June 12th, 2017 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
  • 2000 MERCURY VILLAGER
  • 11,700 MILES

Trying to locate knock sensor 2000 villager

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Tuesday, June 13th, 2017 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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If it is a v-6, it is under the intake manifold. Very uncommon failure. Why are you replacing it?

Roy

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Tuesday, June 13th, 2017 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER

I can help on this one. Its under the manifold inside the engine and they are going to tell you a thousand or more. Its actually quick and easy to use the bypass method and bolt down the new knock sensor using the tapped hole under the distributor 8mm X 1.25 X 30 mm long socket head capscrew. The knock sensor wire is behind the big connector harness. The total fix including the modification of the plug in is on youtube --I just put it there. Please do not do the fix based only on this post--I uploaded a very good video to youtube. Also--->> I agonized for years with the knock sensor code not believing it was faulty--IT WAS--YES THEY GO BAD AND ARE KNOWN FOR IT. I read one posting specifically saying "yes these are good engines but the knock sensor is the huge issue" Mine was toasted--the testing saying it was "open circuit--no info going to computer" The crankshaft position sensor--THAT is the one that is very unlikely is bad, I also fixed that code which was bad connector-not the sensor. I am replying to various threads on this issue because I myself suffered through searching out info on these codes and sensors FOR YEARS--with little info out there. The Knock sensor being bad also I can 120% confirm made many other codes go off that came and went--the knock sensor made them all go out instantly. I replaced MANY items over the years and turns out THEY WERE FINE

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Tuesday, June 13th, 2017 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
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Sweet! Nice work on this one Jeff :)

Cheers, Ken

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Tuesday, June 13th, 2017 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEVIN56
  • 1997 MERCURY VILLAGER

1997 Mercury Villager

where is the knock sensor and how do I replace it

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Tuesday, June 13th, 2017 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Knock Sensor


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_k_1.gif


The Knock Sensor is located in the block, below the lower Intake manifold

REMOVAL
1.Remove the lower intake manifold.
2.Remove the coolant crossover tube.
3.Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4.Disconnect the Knock Sensor(KS) electrical connector.
5.Remove the KS bolt and the KS from the cylinder block.

INSTALLATION
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
- Tighten the KS bolt to25-34 N.m (18-25 lb-ft).

http://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm

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