1997 Mercury Sable car will not start

Does the car start now?

How long had it been setting before it hadn't started? (Possible parasitic draw-did they check for that?)

The engine is not cranking correct? That is you turn the key and it shoudn't make any noise except maybe clicking. It does not crank. Meaning the engine makes sounds like it wants to start.

Your car should be a 6 cylinder, but that may not matter. At some point check the 8th digit of your VIN. While you are out there take a hammer and wrap on the housing of the starter while someone holds the key in the crank position.

IT is not starting now right?

No problem, all is fine. Let's amke the car work, what are the results of my post above?

If this isn't starting and rapping on the starter didn't work, this is the time that a shop CAN diagnose it because the problem is happening. In the meantime, you can get to the starter and make sure the connector at the starter looks good, wiggle it back and forth and verify it looks clean, no corroded.

In particular the spade to post connection as they go bad.

IF you are capable, you can check for power getting to the starter, if not, tow it to the shop for them to check it.

If you choose the latter, wait until the shop is open that your going to have it towed to and try it again before it goes. Hopefully it will still not be starting at that point.

You need to look at it for signs of green corrosion. Wiggle it around and see if it seems weak at the point where it attaches to the connector itself. IF it is bad it needs to be replaced. The reman starter will probably come with it, I know NAPA's premium line does. The connector itself is available at the dealer.

Connect your voltmeter positive lead to positive battery terminial. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to "M" terminal on the starter solenoid. Crank engine and observe voltmeter (2 people of course).
IF voltmeter reading is less than .5 volt, then it is getting power and you need the starter.

IF you have a 3.0 VIN U or Flex Fuel, no it doesn't have one, IF you have a 3.0 DOHC or 3.4 motor then yes it could. That was part of the reason for needing the VIN. I was basing things on the first option.

That U indicates the engine I choose. It's the most common I've seen.

heres the diagram of the system. Another component that can be bad is the PRNDL switch. Somethimes trying to start it in nuetral can flush it out.

There is no relay on that one.

IF the starter is getting power, then it needs the starter, the solenoid comes with it. The only switch is the ignition switch.

The goal is to nail this thing down while the porblem is happening, if it starts, you are right back to not being able to test anymore.

I wouldn't replace anything other than what needs to be with the exception of the wire at the starter should the starter be bad.