Check engine light?

Tiny
TNDYPWR
  • MEMBER
I have the same problem and it's cost me $1000 in repairs that haven't fixed it yet. Did anyone in this thread get to the bottom of this yet?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOWTHYSELF
  • MEMBER
I have the same problem with my Mazda 2001 protege, I am not sure what else to do. This has been going on for about a few years now since I changed the timing belt, which did not really need changing. The same week the check engine light came up, and I took it back to the mechanic that mentioned I should change the plugs, the O2 sensors coils and all. Later changed the catalytic converter, this is the 5th change. I am really tired of working on the car now and just need some insight into this problem.
The engine still acts as if its trying to stall, and by pushing on the breaks I usually stop the car fro shacking soo much. This usually happens as I a stopping at a light or something.

Please please, if you have any ideas on how to resolve this let me know, and also I tried the higher octane for a few months and did not see any changes.

Best regards.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
MIATA & PROTEGE 1.6L Loosen CKP sensor bolt. Using feeler gauge, adjust air gap between sensor and crankshaft sensor plate projections to .020-0.59" (0.5-1.5 mm). See Fig. 10 . Tighten CKP sensor bolt. If clearance is still not within specification, replace CKP sensor or sensor plate behind crankshaft pulley. Fig. 10: Identifying Crankshaft Position Sensor Air Gap Courtesy of MAZDA MOTORS CORP. IGNITION TIMING B2300, B2500, B3000, B4000 & TRIBUTE Engine is equipped with an electronic distributorless ignition system. Base (initial) timing is preset and is not adjustable. Inspection of timing is done through World Diagnostic System (WDS) scan tool or equivalent. Information is not available for this procedure from manufacturer. MIATA, MILLENIA, MPV & PROTEGE 1. Connect NGS scan tool to DLC-2 located under left side of instrument panel, right of steering column. See Fig. 12 . Connect a jumper wire between terminals TEN and GND at DLC-1 in engine compartment. See Fig. 13 . 2. Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE. On all models except Millenia 2.3L, connect timing light to high-tension lead No. 1. On Millenia 2.3L, connect Inductive Timing Light (49-T018-002) lead to ignition timing checking harness (Black/White wire) located next to engine compartment relay box. See Fig. 11 . Start engine and allow it to idle. Check timing. See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. See Fig. 14 . Fig. 11: Identifying Ignition Timing Checking Harness
NOTE: Before adjusting or inspecting ignition timing, warm engine to normal operating temperature. Turn off all accessories. Place transmission in Neutral (M/T) or Park (A/T). Wait for cooling fan to stop. Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE. NOTE: New Generation Star (NGS) scan tool is used to perform following procedures. NOTE: On Millenia 2.3L, ignition timing is not adjustable. NOTE: Standard inductive timing light may not work on ignition timing checking harness. Recommend using manufacturers Inductive Timing Light (49-T018-002) or equivalent. 3. On all models except Millenia 2.5L, if ignition timing is not within specification, check CMP sensor, CKP sensor, TP sensor, ECT sensor and transmission range switch. See appropriate SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article. If all sensors and switches are okay, replace PCM. 4. On Millenia 2.5L, if ignition timing is not within specification, loosen distributor lock bolt. Rotate distributor until timing marks align. Tighten lock bolt. Recheck timing. 626 1. Connect NGS scan tool to DLC-2 located under left side of instrument panel, left of steering column. See Fig. 12 . Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE . 2. Connect timing light to high-tension lead No. 1 and check timing. See Fig. 14 . See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. If ignition timing is not within specification, check CMP sensor, CKP sensor, TP sensor, ECT sensor, neutral switch, clutch switch and transmission range switch. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING - MIATA, MILLENIA, MPV, PROTEGE & 626 article. If all sensors and switches are okay, replace PCM.


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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_marks_2.jpg

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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUBURBIA
  • MEMBER
Did anyone try Merlin2021 diagnostic tess and fix this problem with their Mazda Proteges?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THE_FIRSTMAN_84
  • MEMBER
I had the exact same problem. No power, rough idle, blinking CEL. I changed the timing belt, tensioner and idler, pluggs, wires, and o2 sensors before I found this site and the info on the crank position sensor. I cleaned mine and started my car and it ran great. I'll replace it now that I know it's been causing my problems. I almost put a used engine in or a new head. Glad I did some research!
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MYODA
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 175,000 MILES
Hi,

I just had my Catayltic Converter replaced, and when I started my car, my check engine light was blinking, but everything seemed to run fine, so I disconnected the battery to reset the light, when I started my car the light was off, the next time I started my car about an hour later, the check engine light was back on, but not blinking this time, and I also noticed when I come to a stop the RPM's go pretty low, and then come back to normal, but it never feels like I am going to stall. Could this be the O2 Sensors, they have never been replaced. Or something else.

Thanks,
Sam
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • EXPERT
It could well be an O2 sensor, but you need to do is have the computer scanned. What ever tripped your check engine light should be logged in memory. Our knowing what code(s) are retrieved will really help us isolate your problem. Auto Zone will do a scan for free as well as most other major parts stores. Let us know what you find out.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • EXPERT
Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust. If you can, insert a temporary section of pipe and test drive the vehicle. If the problem goes away, you have a plugged catalytic converter. If not, perform Merlin's repair and test.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • EXPERT
Thanks for the info the_firstman_84
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHMONDHILLGUY
  • MEMBER
The_firstman_84,
How did you clean your crank position sensor?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIQUEL353
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 131,000 MILES
Check engine light comes on. Had diagnosed by mechanic, changed Map sensor and check for vacuum leaks. Mechanic said no vacuum leaks. Light still comes on, most of the time. What should I look for?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
There's over a thousand potential diagnostic fault codes, and many that pertain to any one sensor circuit. Need to know the exact fault code number to know how to start diagnosing the problem. Be aware that fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're defective. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. When a sensor is referenced in a code, that sensor is actually only bad about half of the time. It is just as likely there is a wiring problem related to that sensor.

Also, there's always a long list of conditions that must be met to set a fault code, and one of them is certain other codes can't already be set. The computers continually run a number of self-tests, and they compare various sensor readings and operating conditions to each other to determine when there's a problem. If there's a code related to a sensor that is used as a reference or for comparison to another sensor, the computer knows it can't rely on those readings so it suspends some of the tests it runs. Once the problem is solved and the fault codes are erased, the tests resume. THAT'S when a totally different problem may be detected for the first time and the Check Engine light may turn on again. You could have a completely different problem. That's why we need to know the code number. We also need to know the symptoms. There's a lot of things to check related to a fault code. Knowing the symptoms can shorten that list of suspects.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ATHOMAS99
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 11,000 MILES
I recently got this car, and I do not really know much about cars. But the check engine light was on so I took it to Autozone and two codes popped up. The codes were p1250 and p1569. I am wondering what these two codes could potentially mean and what the price range to fix it would be?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
P1250 Mazda - Fuel pressure regulator control valve circuit fault.

Possible causes:

Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve harness is open or shorted
Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve circuit poor electrical connection

P1569 MAZDA - VTCS Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Input

Possible causes:

Faulty Variable Tumble Control System (VTCS) Solenoid Valve
VTCS Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted
VTCS Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection

My experience has been wiring and connector terminal problems cause more electrical problems than the sensors and valves. These codes refer to detecting electrical circuit faults, not mechanical problems which are caused by valves. Also, when there are two codes referring to electrical problems, start by suspecting they have a common cause.

We do not get involved with costs here because there are way too many variables. We do not even know what is wrong yet, or how long it will take to find the causes of the problems or repair them.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Mazda- P1250 - Pressure regulator control solenoid circuit : Try a simple disconnect/reconnect to see if it is just corroded contacts. The solenoids do fail as well. Simple part to replace. Video showing the testing of a similar unit, but it is just as easy to just replace the valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucOq-83Hv2Y

Mazda- P1569 - Intake manifold air control - circuit low - this can take a bit more work to test. But again the first thing would be to check the connections because it is an older vehicle.

Cost of repair depends a lot on what is found during testing.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SARAHDELANEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
I have an 01' Mazda Protege and my check engine light just came on yesterday. It's running fine, but when I'm stopped sometimes it feels like something drops. It's hard to explain, but it kind of feels like the whole engine is dropping. A few months ago it was overheating so my dad replaced the thermastat and timing belt so I know it couldn't be those. I'm just worried about driving in winter with this problem so if anybody has had this problem or knows what it could be please help!
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If the check engine light is on, there is a trouble code stored in the computer that will identify where the problem is coming from. What you need to do is have the computer scanned. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free.

Have that done and let me know what you find.
Joe
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMASSON0506
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 183,000 MILES
I have a 2001 Mazda Protege and the check engine came on, I just got it checked out and I got the codes p0445 and p0660. What do these means, is it a HAVE TO FIXED RIGHT NOW OR CAR WILL BREAKDOWN kind of thing or can I drive it for a bit and save money to get it fixed?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMASSON0506
  • MEMBER
Actually its p0455
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Try replacing the gas cap, have the code removed. This may have comeon after you got gas. The cap has to tighten 3 clicks at least inorder to seal properly. Otherwis it's a big leak in the evap system.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM (Merged)

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