Check Engine Light?

Tiny
TMALONE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 10,400 MILES
I had the transmission on my Mazda Protege substantially repaired a few months ago. Shortly after that, the check engine light came on, and the car began to shudder somewhat at idle, and also to shudder regularly when I am between 35 and 40 mph. I brought the car back to the mechanic several times. Each time the engine light would stay off for an hour or two and then return. Recently, the car began shuddering consistently on a longer trip, and the engine block could be seen rocking side-to-side. That was fixed with the replacement of a wire, the name of which escapes me. No explanation has been offered for why the light keeps coming on. A friend suggested that there is a problem with something called the vacuum module, and that would require taking the transmission apart again to get to. Any ideas?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
First thing you need to do is have the codes scanned, autozone does it free, then post the codes here. I don't think your car has a vacuum modle, it uses electronic drivetrain controls(solinoids) in the tranny.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JESSYV74
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 182,000 MILES
Hi :),

Check engine light came on about 4 days ago my daughter called me in a panic! Had her friends dad do visual inspection check oil. Drove home light turned off w/o actually resetting or anything, Then she was driving to work yesterday and it came on again, this morning I checked her fluids, coolant tank a bit low so I filled it and it was off. Today driving home check engine light came on again? Seems so strange to me it is coming on and turning off? I am a single mom and pretty handy with basic mechanics, I changed her thermostat in the summer w no issue, have changed alternators etc in other cars but I do not have a tester and not really money to take to a shop. Any suggestions on where to go next? I read could be MAS air flow, intake hoses? What do you think?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Dont worry yet. Take it to most parts stores and they will check them for u. Then come back.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • EXPERT
There could literaly be hundreds of causes for the light to come on. Have the codes read and post them here and we will help you.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JESSYV74
  • MEMBER
Autozone scanned for my daughter P0106. Said it is Map sensor but to check my hoses before I go buy and replace. I asked if its doing damage to drive it, her said no car will run a bit rougher use more gas. Is this something I can change myself? Is there anything specific I should know if I do myself, special tools etc?
Thanks guys for you r help, I look forward to reading your thoughts, advice on this!

Jessica
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • EXPERT
Hi jessica, you are welcome. I beleive that you do not need a map sensor buy most likely have either a vacum line off or broken between the egr valve and the egr boost sensor or possibly clogged egr passages. If you get a manual for you car it will will show you the location of the valve and the hoses. Please keep us posted.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASTROSTUART
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 57,750 MILES
The day after getting my condenser replaced, my fiancee and I had driven 85 miles when I noticed the check engine light on. It wasn't safe to stop right there so we stopped at the next exit, but when we did, the car had overheated and radiator fluid was steaming out. When we opened the hood, we found the radiator cap was off, sitting upside down placed next to where it should have been. I had not opened the hood at all from the time I picked it up from the shop until it overheated. Unfortunately, the car had blown a gasket and well over $1000 of damage has been done. The auto shop that replaced our condenser claimed they could not have left the cap off for us to have driven 85 miles. Most every other mechanic I talked to said that on that cool morning with calm continuous travel plus one stop the fluid could have come out slowly, and that the cap very well could have been left off. Now their claim is that all the fluid would have come out during our earlier stop if the radiator cap was off. I admit his new point puzzles me, because I can see that the fluid should have come out at the earlier stop, but we saw nothing. I have a hard time conceding that the cap was blown off between that stop and when it overheated, because there is no damage to the cap or radiator. We heard no bang. There was not very much fluid left in the radiator so the fluid must have been slowly expelled such that we didn't notice it.
Any explanation for why it wouldn't have sent out fluid at the first stop? Could it be that they had never put enough fluid in the car in the first place?
The mechanic wants $800 to fix it now (down from $1200) so I need an explanation one way or the other.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

My thoughts are that the cap was left off when the repair was done, I can't imagine a cap blowing off and just landing where you say it did, and I am sure if the cap did blow off you would have heard it, and there would be some damage to the neck of the radiator, with the cap off the temp would rise slowly to the point where it would start to boil, the cap holds pressure in the system and this raises the boiling point of the coolant, as the coolant evaporated away the engine got hotter and hotter until the warning cam on, now keep in mind that a coolant temp sender wont work if there is now water covering the sensor, this may be why your temp gauge did not show high, I feel it is the responsibility of the repairer, but you will have to take this up with him.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASTROSTUART
  • MEMBER
Thank you Mark

But why didn't the radiator fluid come out when we stopped earlier? A state regulator thinks the mechanic may have a good point here. Something isn't adding up because as you say the cap isn't going to lie neatly upside down next to the neck, which is why I wonder if perhaps besides leaving the cap off that perhaps the mechanic had also neglected to refill the radiator.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

Just because the cap has been left off wont mean that the coolant will come gushing out straight away, the level may have well been a little low to start with, if there was no coolant in the radiator you would not have got as far as you did, my best guess is low coolant and cap left off.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TTKT15
  • MEMBER
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
I have a 1999 Mazda Protege and the check engine light doesn't come on when the ignition is in the run position. I believe the dealership disabled the check engine light but don't know how to get it to work again.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKEYBDMAN
  • EXPERT
I have never heard of a disable function. However on some models, if the MIL is not on like you discribe, the bulb is either burned out, or it may indicate a problem with the PCM itself.
I would try a new bulb first, and if that doesnt fix it, you can always remove a sensor plug and try and induce an engine code to see if it comes on. One thing tho, if you get a code, you will need a way to clear the code.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TTKT15
  • MEMBER
It may be a burned out bulb but I do have fault codes that come up when the engine is checked but the check engine light isn't ever on.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LARSMED
  • MEMBER
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
I have a
Mazda Protege, 2001, 62000miles, 1.6L engine.

Check engine light is on with p0171 error coded-system too lean. Car has poor acceleration, engine roars yet it takes a minute or so for the car to accelerate past 20 mph. And when you take foot off the accelerator, car feels like it is braking. Changed 02 sensor.

Had diagnostic done. Mechanic said everything looked ok except for the fuel system was dirty, and spark plugs may need to be changed. So he cleaned it, however I did not get him to change the plugs.
Have not changed spark plugs yet. Could this be the problem?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COSMO
  • EXPERT
More than likely your MAF sensor is faultl.V. Ery common in the 1.6L motor's

Cosmo. Mazda TEch
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+1
Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LARSMED
  • MEMBER
The mechanics said the Air flow meter works correctly. Is the Airflow meter same as the MAF?

What could it be?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MICKEY1
  • MEMBER
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
Hi,

I have Mazda protégé 1999 engine size 1.5 l and everything seem to run properly just, after some time the cheek engine light coming on and after I restart computer on the car, the light goes off but after some time goes again on, and car seems to run ok. So please tell me what to do. Thanks in advance.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BACKYARDMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
Your car's engine management system has a problem and is letting you know by causing the check engine light to come on. Even if the problem is a intermitten one, (as in your cause) the fault code will be stored in the computers memory and can be retreived by using a code scanner as long as the battery hasn't been disconnected. If you don't have one you can go to one of the big chain auto parts store and they will pull the code for you free of charge.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEPIN159
  • MEMBER
Check the connector of oxygen sensors or its circuit.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)

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