1989 Lincoln Continental windows fogging

Tiny
THOMPSON001
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,000 MILES
I have a 1989 lincoln continental signature series. All of the heating assembly works fine and ac compressor works, but all windows fogg up while driving at night. So bad that I have a peep hole to see out of in the windsheild. Also I don't seem to have the heat that I should have. If I manually open the recirc door, I get more heat than if it takes the air from outside. The operating temp is normal, thermostat is new, and the antifreeze is circulating good even through the heater core. I live in minnesota where it was 20 below the last few days. I need windows to be defrosted. Can you help with this unusual situation?
Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 10:46 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello -

Is it possible for you to attach a pic of your AC/Heat Control Panel?
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 11:21 PM
Tiny
THOMPSON001
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I don't have a way to add a pic of the heater /cooling panel, but I can tell you it is electronic. I accessed the test mode on the control panel and do not show any fault codes.
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Wednesday, December 17th, 2008 AT 11:31 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello -

Okay. . .. . .well, let's do what we can. . .. . ...

By what you are saying. . ..it appears that your recirculation is in the wrong position. Sorry, I can not find a pic of your AC system dash unit so we will have to use another vehicle to discuss it.

Do you see the pic below and the red arrow. . .. . .. . .do you have a selection like that? That shows an arrow with air only moving on the inside of the car? With only one button on this model, if the light is off, then it is pulling outside air in. If the button is selected, the light is on and it is only circulating inside air. Some cars have two buttons. One button has a pic like this and the other button has a pic of outside air coming into the vehicle. 99% of the time, based off of what you have the wrong mode selected. You need to switch to outside air so that you are pulling outside air into the car.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Dash_1.jpg



The only time you really need just inside air re-circulated is in the summer when you go to maximum cold so it super cools the inside air faster.

Let me know if this helps
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Thursday, December 18th, 2008 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
THOMPSON001
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
OK. I borrowed a camera to get a picture of the heat/cool control panel for you. I've owned this car for quite some time and know how to run the controls. this is a sudden thing that happened. when I said that I get more heat by manualy opening the recirc door, I ment that I physically detached the arm from the vaccuum motor to the door and positioned the door by hand. when I move the recirc door to fresh air, the heat cools down. Not enough to keep the car very warm, but when I move the door ( by hand) to recirculate inside air, I get more heat. But no matter what position the door is in, or what setting the control panel is on, the windows still won't defrost. I have plenty of air movement and I know for sure that there is plenty of coolant moving through the heater core. here is the pic, this is the best I could do. Hope this helps. thank you.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/288241_121808_2016_1.jpg

The button on the far left is Max AC and the icon on the far right of the digital read out shows is in the defrost position
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Thursday, December 18th, 2008 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello - thompson001

Sorry for the delay. . .. . ...minor technical difficulties.

First by your response of owning the car for some time and knowing how to work the controls; I feel I may have offended you. So I apologize for that.

Please understand that we deal with literally thousands of questions/people. These people such as you; have hundreds of different circumstances, many different levels of understanding of not only their vehicle but of mechanics etc. So as we review things we don't have all of that information. I was just dealing with someone that got the car from their father. Last week, that person had been driving the car for 6 months and the item never came up until then. Also, there are thousands of different types of cars, trucks, models, etc that we deal with. Though we may have worked on many, we may not have worked on your specific. So, when we, or in this case, when I asked certain questions, it is in no way to offend. . ..it is so you and I are on the same page so that you can be better assisted as quick as possible.

I still believe you have a couple of problems. . .. . .. . .some with the recir door etc. I have attached the information that I think will help you. I don't think you are getting proper vacuum to certain doors and they are opening as they should.

I reviewed all the TSBs for your model and there are not any that deal with this.

Now if you cannot read the diagrams, even if you right/click copy paste etc to your computer, please make sure you tell me so I can try to make them bigger.

Well, I did a quick preview and it is hard to read so I am not sure how it will do if you right/click copy. So. . .. . .what I did was blow it up and past in parts. . ...you may have to copy print and tape together. I did it in order of the pics. . ...So for the first pic. . ...there are 3 different parts. ETC

As you see the chart. . ...when you select a position it tells you what to look for on the vacuum.

Let me know if this helps or not. . .. . .. . .. . ...and we will see if we can do more.

Non-Trouble Code Procedures
Notes

Testing For Vacuum At The Control Assembly
To test the EATC vacuum system, start the engine and depress the function buttons slowly from one position to another. A momentary hiss should be heard as each button is depressed from one position to another, indicating that vacuum is available at the control assembly. A continuous hiss at the control assembly indicates a major leak somewhere in the system. It does not necessarily indicate that the leak is at the control assembly.

Checking Vacuum Supply Lines


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_119.jpg



If a momentary hiss cannot be heard as each function button is depressed from one position to another, check for a kinked, pinched, or disconnected vacuum supply hose (illustration). Also, inspect the check valve between the vacuum intake manifold and the vacuum reservoir to ensure it is working properly.

Testing Vacuum Motors


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_2_78.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_3_56.jpg



If a momentary hiss can be heard as each function button is depressed from one position to another, vacuum is available at the control assembly. Cycle the function buttons through each position with the blower on HIGH and check the location(s) of the discharge air. The airflow schematic and vacuum control chart shows the vacuum motors applied for each function selection along with an airflow diagram of the system (see illustrations). The airflow diagram shows the position of each door when vacuum is applied, along with the no-vacuum positions. With this chart, airflow for each position of the control assembly can be determined. If a vacuum motor fails to operate, the motor can readily be found because the airflow will be incorrect.

If a vacuum motor is inoperative, check the operation of the motor with a Rotunda Vacuum Tester 021-00014 or equivalent. If the vacuum motor operates properly, the vacuum hose is probably pinched, kinked, disconnected or has a leak.

Locating A Leak When Functioning Normally At Idle
If the function system functions normally at idle, but goes to defrost during acceleration, a small leak exists in the system. The leak can be located by shutting off the engine and using a gauge to check for vacuum loss while selectively blocking off vacuum hoses.

To check electrical system operation between the control assembly head connector and the blend door actuator, refer to Self Diagnostics Test.

The First Pic


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P1a_1.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P1b_1.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P1c_1.jpg



The Second Pic


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P2a_1.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P2b_1.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P2c_1.jpg



The Third Pic


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P3a_1.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P3b_1.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_P3c_1.jpg

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Saturday, December 20th, 2008 AT 1:47 PM

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