Knock sensor

Tiny
RCA195203
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This is the problem with this situation, this year truck 1998 4.3 GMC Sonoma does not have an adjustable distributor. If it was just a couple of degrees out, I could maybe wobble out the bolt hole and adjust it that way but it is out a lot. Most people that I talked to say that the balancer is on wrong but it only goes on one way with key-way on crankshaft. The timing chain marks were lined up with the dots being where they are suppose to be and having the #1 TDC on compression stroke and lining up the timing marks was also done. It runs like it is in time, minus the #6 miss and the P300 miss, but it starts good and cuts off good. I do notice however that it seem to miss a bit more radical on cold start and calm's down a bit after warm-up but still miss's. I am going to pull the exhaust from the catalytic converter today and see if that helps any.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 6:52 AM
Tiny
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There is a notch on the base of the distributor. That can be removed to allow more movement of the distributor. I have done that many times to get the correct reading.

As far as the balancer, that is why I asked to verify top dead center with the cylinder and then look at where the balancer is pointing.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 7:43 AM
Tiny
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Unless there is a way to take off the bracket from the distributor, which I do not see, then it cannot be adjusted. The Chilton and Haynes manual says it is not adjustable.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 7:54 AM
Tiny
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They are told to say that from the manufacturer. You can get around that.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 7:57 AM
Tiny
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Well I tried to figure out how to do it but with the base of the distributor being longer on two sides then it is on the other and the bracket is a U shaped fork type bracket then it is going to fit only one way with the long part being from 9 to 3 o'clock where the bracket bolts down to the manifold. Even if you somehow get the bracket off and adjust it, it is not going to fit back in the direction of the bolt hole. It does not have a round base.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 8:17 AM
Tiny
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It only has to move about one inch to get to the reading.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 9:20 AM
Tiny
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It cannot move period. The only way is to wobble out the hole for the bold and that might give you about 1/8, and that is a maybe.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 9:41 AM
Tiny
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Did you check the bottom gear of the distributor? They wear out a lot. The gears teeth got razor sharp from wear. That will cause the cam retard reading to be off.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 9:52 AM
Tiny
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It has new distributor, cap, rotor and yes I looked at it a couple of weeks ago and it was good.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
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We are missing something here.

Do you have a drivability issue with the engine?

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
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Only the misfire on P006 and P0300 other then that it starts, runs, and I use it all the time.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
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Roy, here is what I got off of my scanner with live data:

Calc Load % 2.7
ECT F 178
STFT B1 5.52
LTFT B1 25.0
STFT B2 29.9%
LTFT B2 25 %
MAP inhg 10.9
RPM 641
SPARK ADV. 19.5
IAT F 59
MAF .6
02SB1 (V) .705
O2S B1 S3 (V) .48
STFT B1 S3 99.2
O2S B2 S1 (V) .82
STFT S1 28.9 %

See if you can make something out of it!
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
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I assume you mean P306 and 300.

Okay, lets get off the timing as it has no effect on the codes.

You need compression, spark, and fuel for the cylinder.

Check for any vacuum leaks, the injector could be the issue. If I not mistaken, this has the spider under the plenum. Is that correct?

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 2:44 PM
Tiny
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Yes it does, and when I had it in the shop last week they said that it had all three so they would say it is more mechanical. They said for me to look at the lifters and see if #6 was looking alright and so I did and so it is! They lift just as high as the rest on that side as far as I can.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 2:58 PM
Tiny
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Okay, another possibility is a broken valve spring. Look closely at the cylinder while it is running and see if the spring is broken. It will be obvious.

Another way to tell is to remove the plug and insert a compression tester and run the motor. See what the compression is while running.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
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And what should it be? The heads are redone with springs, valves, etc. I bough them from the Headshop who does this for a living.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
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Did you get the live data that I sent?
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
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No, got nothing on data.

Should be at least 125.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
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You must of missed it, it is back about five messages ago. It is the live data from today.
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
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Yep, you are right.

The long term trims pinned tell me it is running lean, very lean.

The first thing that comes to mind is fuel pressure. Beyond that, it could be mass air flow sensor.

Surprised you do not have a 171,174 code with those readings,

Roy
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Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 4:06 PM

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