Key will not turn off and pull it out

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

It sounds like you popped a fuse. Under the hood is one if the fuse panels. Check the fuse for the ignition. I have attached a picture of the fuse panel for you. I just had a GMC Envoy do the exact same thing. No crank, cannot turn key fully off, and all the lights came on as normal.

Let me know if you find this is the problem. I hope it helps.

Take care,
Joe

Did she look at you with those "you broke it" eyes?
Do you hear the shift interlock click when you step on the brake? The description sounds like it has bound up and is not returning fully. On the transmission end it latches the shift lever in park until you step on the brake. When it is shifted into park it lets the key rotate fully back to be removed. The first item is to prevent the car from being started in gear, the second is to prevent you from being able to lock the steering wheel if the vehicle is moving.

There should be an interlock bypass to allow you to get things to work.
However it is a bear to use all the time.

The common issue with the floor shifted version is that the wiring connector inside the console that attaches to the switch on the shift lever fails. This is because unlike 99% of GM vehicles where the switch is in a fixed position and the lever moves an actuator. GM placed the switch on the lever so the wiring harness moves every time you move the shift lever. Then they added a clamp so that the wiring just keeps flexing in an S shape. The wires at the connector only take just so much until they break.

To get to it you need to remove the console. The trim ring around the shifter pries out with gentle force. Those cheap plastic trim tools work great or you can wrap some tape on a screwdriver to keep from scratching the plastic. Once it is off you will see two bolts (7mm IIRC). Now go to the rear of the console and under the tray buried at the bottom of the compartment there are four more of the same type bolts. Once the bolts are out you pull up and back to get it out. I have seen a few with extra screws up in the front tray as well.
With the console out of the way look at the shift assembly on the passenger side. That connector and wiring are where you will likely find a broken wire. The repair is to get a replacement pigtail from GM or to get new pins and make your own using the old shell and some flexible wires of the same colors. Then make the wires so they do not flex as far and relocate the clamp so the harness can move easier. No real good image of it but it is the only connector there. Most of the time the wire breaks inside the insulation. Give the wire a light tug and the insulation will form an hourglass over the break.

If it is the column shifted version, the interlock is still likely the issue, it is a bit harder to deal with as it is mounted to the column on the side near the center stack. To get to it you remove the trim under the column and look at the lower column area to the right side.
See if it moves freely. If not it is binding.

Now, if you do not find a broken wire or a binding shift lock it is possible that the BCM (Body Control Module) has an internal fault and will not trigger the interlock. In that event you need a replacement BCM and to have it flashed to match your car.
Hope you find a broken wire.

No re-learn as far as security or that. It will relearn shift points and idle position but that should be all. The power fuses run hot because of the current flow. Once the issue you have is fixed we can see if the lights go out. Because of whet the switch does they can be related.

A drain that large could be a bad diode in the alternator, dead battery + jump could do that on the "stuff" they build these days. Disconnect the battery negative, hook a test light in between. With the draw it should light up bright. Remove the battery cable from the alternator and see if goes off or a lot dimmer. Pull it off and have it tested to be sure.

I would replace the pigtail on the shifter - loose can give you headaches like you already have.
Ask her if the clicking was there before the first time she had to jump it or if it just started after the battery died. The HVAC will cycle the doors to reset the position sensors and low voltage could be making them hunt, or one got fried.