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Engine keeps hesitating

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,738 POSTS
Hi Rick. This sounds like a problem with the throttle position sensor. As long as it reads between 0.5 and 4.5 volts, no fault code will be set, but that doesn't mean the reading is correct. The place to start is by connecting a scanner that can display live data so you can read the sensor values. If the battery was recently disconnected or run dead, "minimum throttle" will have to be relearned by the Engine Computer. Until it does that, idle speed will be too low and it can cause a hesitation.

Also look at the MAP sensor to see if it is responding properly. It too must stay between 0.5 and 4.5 volts to prevent setting a code. It should have a lower voltage when manifold vacuum is high. Look at the barometric pressure reading too. The MAP sensor's reading represents that before the engine starts to run.

If the EGR valve isn't closing properly you should have a rough idle.

Although not at all common on Chrysler products, you might want to measure fuel pressure to see if it is low.

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TWO LANE
  • MECHANIC
  • 34 POSTS
Was the original problem the car not starting, are they saying that the coolant leak is causing this or is it something different and did you find out why the car was not starting. The coolant leak could just start thats why someone might of not seen it before. The heat if it is low on coolant the heater will not get hot because the coolant runs through the heater core and then the blower motor blows over that. Find out what they are fixing and get back to me.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MAXIMUS419
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Two Lane, thanks for your reply.

The original problem was hesitation and the car not starting up after the first complete stop. It would and it does always start up on the first crank in the morning even if it is cold.

The car did not start up at all a few days ago and that was due to the SKIM module. Towed it to the dealer and changed the SKIM module (the red security light was blinking and I assume the dealer replaced the module rather than just tweak it to work). The car starts up fine now but the original problem of hesitation and difficult to start after the first complete stop still exists. Still not sure if the car has any problems once it is heated up.

The Dealer now wants to fix the coolant leak. The leak is before it gets into the heating coil but under the hood and not inside the car. As you say, the coolant leak might have just started but the dealer thinks fixing the leak and the gasket will fix the hesitation problem and is willing to guarantee or fix the problem for free afterwards (provided he can figure it out).
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TWO LANE
  • MECHANIC
  • 34 POSTS
They should have pressure tested the system to find the leak do you know if they want to replace your head gasket and if so that can cause an idle problem if the car was low on coolant sometimes car will run rough. It is hard to tell you what is wrong with out seeing the car but if the shop is a good shop and they make sure it is in writing you should be ok. You can also ask them for an estimate on the job and what they are going to do and then call around to other shops and see what they would charge that will let you know if they are charging a good price.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MAXIMUS419
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The tech did not perform coolant pressure check. He definitely showed me visible signs of leak. Not sure how bad the leak is as it was not dripping. The leak was at the coolant temperature sensor before it get diverted to the heating core for the cabin heating. So the leak is not at the head gasket. He is recommending to fix the leak and replace the coolant sensor.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TWO LANE
  • MECHANIC
  • 34 POSTS
I would replace the sensor if it is leaking but they didn't want 600 dollars to do it that is high. The hesitation problem and runs rough could be due to low coolant but is rare to see it would have to be very low. I would say if you still have the hesitation after the repair and the check engine light is not on try cleaning the throttle body and then go from there because it could be allot of other things.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BERGMA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 DODGE STRATUS
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
I am having an issue when I am cruising at a highway speed (60-75) when I have my A/C on. The engine will occasionally hesitate slightly. I notice the problem happening more when driving in the afternoon on a hot sunny day. The problem doesn't happen too much in the morning. The problem also seems to be consistent when the A/C is set to low or high. I have had the fuel injectors cleaned and I replaced the fuel filter. I do not have any issues when I am driving without the a/c on.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
The fuel pressure should be checked when the problem is happening. A hand held diagnostic computer can be hooked up at the same time and the O2 sensors can be monitored for a weak one.

Have seen Cat Converters start off like this. The exhasut can be disconnected and driven for the symptoms to see if they still exist to verify.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MAXIMUS419
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I got the car back from the dealer. He fixed the leak and sensor and the coolant was really low. The car runs very smooth and I also have heat in the car right away. So the coolant was low.

Today is a warm day and the car ran very well. Got to check on a cold day as the problem used to occur on very cold days. Thanks for your help. I will post again after the car has ben running for a few days.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
A bad ECT can cause the symptoms described and if you have topped up the coolant and do not have ant losses issues, I believe the problem is resolved.
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+1
Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MAXIMUS419
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The car is running smooth now but the dealer did fix the leak - a very small one and topped of the coolant. No problems so far.

Thanks for your help.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Good to know the problem is fixed.

Have a nice day.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYMUNDO4202000
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 DODGE STRATUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 138,000 MILES
Car hesitates on take off lots of work pu into it allrady new radiator new fan assembly new distributor new cam and crank seals new tps sensor timing adjustment and new timing belt nd cover new egr and solonoid new catyletic converter oxygen sensors are next but still hesitates rpm`s go up but power doesnt kick in till around 3000
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYMUNDO4202000
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Any possibillity a vaccume leak on cruise control could b causing this only code is 4 the oxygen sensor past the cat have 1 on order only other thing I can think is vaccume cuz this o2 sensor code came up as after I replaced the cat and ive chased it from the egr back replaced egr then it gave me the code 4 the solonoid replaced that it gave me catalyst effciancy below threshold bank 1 replaced cat now o2 sensor is there somthing not monitored by the computer that could b causing this
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEOLIGHT002
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 DODGE STRATUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 18,000 MILES
Just got my car back from a mechanic, after replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs. It is chugging. It wasn't doing this before I gave it to him for repair. It wouldn't start and was determined it was the fuel pump. Can you tell me what to do?
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
First, I would contact the mechanic that did the work and demand he fix his work. If the car wasn't doing this before, he needs to fix it.

WHat was the reason you took it to him? Also, has the check engine light come on? Backfiring, smoking?
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEOLIGHT002
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My ex husband took the car to him, as it wouldn't start. The friend mechanic who said he was licensed, but not working at the time, said it was the fuel pump.

Had more trouble with it last week, finally got ahold of an old friend of mine who used to repair my cars, and had it towed to him. It quit running on the road, and gas was all over. He determined that it was the fuel filter, that was not attached properly at all. It still has a slight chug at a slow speed.

Yes, the check engine light is on, and he is putting on the computer to see why.

Thank you for your help.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
Let me know what codes you get or if you have other questions.

Joe
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ECOUCH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 DODGE STRATUS
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 146,848 MILES
My car hesitates while accelerating at highway speeds, especially going up hill, and my check engine light will flash. What could be causing this?
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
Sounds like an excessively rich condition. Raw fuel is probably getting into the converter and will ruin it. Don't drive like that.

Possible bad fuel pressure regulator?
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 8:38 AM (Merged)

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