1991 Jeep Wrangler starting problems

Tiny
MUZAC
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 JEEP WRANGLER
Engine Mechanical problem
1991 Jeep Wrangler 4 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual

For about two weeks my jeep has been a bit slow to start. Makes rrrrrrr noise (for a second or so) but doesn't catch and then it does. I thought it was the battery and had it tested. It was fine. One day I tried starting it all I got was rrrrrr (similar sound to when the battery is dead. I needed gas so I drove to a station near my house to fill up. After filling up same thing. But eventually it started. I got up early the next morning to try to figure things out before work. But the car started normally but with a bit more rrrrr than a few weeks back before the problem began. I connected the +battery to the motor and it seemed to crank fine (didn't seem to have an rrrrr). I am hoping this is enough info to indicate a specific problem. What does all this mean.A problem with the solenoid? What should the next steps be? Thanks.
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 3:40 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSE and clean AND TIGHTEN WELL.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace it. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Fellow Jeep Guy.

Love, Turddog


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
MUZAC
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Thanks. I guess I will start with cleaning the connections to the solenoid. Although they seemed fine.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Check your Batt cable clamps, too. If clamp squeezes the wire (not the post) take it apart, and do as well.

Hope its a quick fix !

Let me know if you're driving soon.

Love, Turddog
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 9:43 PM

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