1994 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 200000 miles
I’ve got a 1994 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 with clutch issues. I parked the car one evening and when I got up the next morning the clutch would not disengage. The clutch pedal was about halfway down and didn’t really seem to do anything. I purchased and installed a clutch kit and put everything back together. The problem is almost exactly the same with slightly different symptoms. The clutch still doesn’t disengage but the difference is that the piston on the hydraulic slave cylinder pops out when the clutch pedal is depressed. When I reinstalled the slave cylinder it is in contact with and has pressure on the throw out bearing yoke. I have no idea what’s happening that would allow the piston on the slave cylinder to travel too far but it breaks the plastic clips off the piston when the clutch pedal is depressed. There is a bolt on the opposite side of the bell housing from the slave cylinder that looks like an adjustment bolt where the other end of the yoke should be but it doesn’t seem to do anything
If anyone has a clue what’s going on I’d appreciate the help.
Did you check to see if the clutch fork is bent? When you say it pops the plastic clips on the slave, do you mean that is pushes the guts out of the housing? I dont see how it could travel too far when trapped between the fork and is bolted down. Is there any free play in the pedal?
January, 22, 2008 AT 7:56 PM
That was my thought. How in the world would the fork get bent? The plastic clips I refer too look like a wish bone and attach to the mounting bolts of the slave cylinder to prevent the guts of the cylinder from pushing out too far before installation. Against my better judgment I took it to a local repair shop and just as I figured they convinced me that the master and slave cylinders were bad. Replaced them and I m still in the same situation.
When I stick my fingers in the hole and push on the yoke it moves freely about 1 to 1 and 1 half inch. I m leaning toward the bent yoke theory, or installed an incorrect clutch kit, or either I just plain re-assembled something wrong. If the throw out bearing is the incorrect thickness I d assume it d have the same symptoms.
Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated especially if the suggestions don t involve removing the transmission again.
January, 22, 2008 AT 8:08 PM
Please read my message above before this one.
I just got a real radical idea. I m considering welding a 1 extension on the push rod of the slave cylinder. That would compensate for the excess free travel of the yoke. I know that is not the correct fix but all I need is 4 months out of this car then it can go to the junk yard. What do you think?
January, 23, 2008 AT 7:26 AM
Ifit is the wrong T.O bearing or if the pressure plate is the wrong one, I dont know if it will work, but if you are looking for a band-aid, you might have found it.
January, 23, 2008 AT 7:52 AM
Just one more question before I modify the push rod.
There is a bolt at the yoke pivot point on the exterior of the bell housing. It looks like it should be an adjustment bolt but it doesn t seem to do any thing. Is there any adjustment for the yoke pivot or is that simply where the pivot ball is bolted in and there is no adjustment?
January, 23, 2008 AT 10:31 AM
That isnt so much an adjustment as it threads in to replace it. Sounds like you have the wrong pressure plate more than wrong T.O bearing