Injector coil fuse blows when crank

Hello,

Check Fuse 14. It supplies power to the power side of the relay. Please get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Okay so let's check the dark green/orange wire from pin 6 of the PCM connector to splice 108 of the engine harness for an open. In the diagrams down below I have included a guide on how to find an open in an automotive electrical circuit for you. Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

I'm sorry. I forgot to put the the guide in the previous reply. Here is the guide for how to find an open in an automotive electrical circuit that I promised earlier. The capacitors collect the Electro Magnetic Frequency [EMF] that results from the collapsing magnetic field of the coils used to fire the spark plugs and then routs it to a ground. This frequency can interfere with crankshaft/camshaft sensor signals, and is famous for causing a hum in the speakers of your car stereo. But first let's check the wire for an open that we talked about earlier, please. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Okay, so I think we are going to be down to a bad Powertrain Control Module[PCM] or "computer". Fuse 24 provides power to all of the coils and fuel injectors, so if your test light is lighting up and you still are a no start then that leaves the other half of the circuit, and the PCM controls both the coils and the fuel injectors by providing and breaking ground, which obviously isn't happening in your vehicle's case. It's not the end of the world, I had to replace the PCM in my personal vehicle just a couple of months ago for the same thing, no start, no spark and no fuel injectors, so it can be done. Please get back to us with what you decide and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Scratch my last reply. I was thinking about this some more and something occurred to me, where did you cut the dark green/light green wire that is going to each of the Ignition capacitors [noise suppressors] at? In the diagrams down below I have included the same set of wiring diagrams as I have previously sent, but this time I went and got the Original Equipment Manufacturer [OEM], or Chrysler's wiring diagrams instead of the non-OEM wiring diagrams. You can clearly see that the noise suppressor is a parallel circuit in the ignition coil circuit, and could be the short to ground that is causing the problem, but I believe it's the old COP that is being used has the short to ground in it, then either way if the wire is cut before anywhere in the circuit before the first dot[directly underneath the from S138's on diagram 5] then it would create an open in each banks COP circuit and cause a no start, but the short to ground would also have no electricity going to it and fuse 24 wouldn't blow. Please go through these guides and get back to us with where the dark green/light green wire was cut at and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Okay, so if you cut the wire there then we might be looking at a bad PCM. As far as getting the timing chain/belt lined up with the timing marks, if you are able to turn your engine over a couple of times through the four stroke process with no resistance when turning it by hand, other than the resistance of turning an engine over by hand, then you are in the clear for being off on the timing, it's right. That wouldn't cause a no start from no spark either. Having said this, I have included in the diagrams down below the instructions for the removal and installation of your vehicle's ECM/PCM, along with the requirements when replacing said ECM/PCM. It will have to be reprogrammed to the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module[SKIM] at the dealership. I have also included the price for parts and labor for your vehicle's ECM/PCM should you decide to go that way. It looks like the cost for your ECM/PCM, removal and installation, and reprogramming will cost less than I paid for my PCM, used. To get the labor rate take the installation and reprogramming time add them together and then multiply that sum by the hourly shop rate in your area to come up with the labor cost. Also, please pay special attention to the highlighted areas of the guides, and whenever replacing anything electrical on your vehicle, disconnect the negative battery cable BEFORE you start. This will negate any power spikes from damaging sensitive electrical components. Please go through these guides and get back to us with how everything is progressing.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Yes it would. In the diagrams down below I have included exactly what happens with your vehicle in "Start Up" mode. Please go through this guide and get back to us when done. We can go from there with CMP wheel replacement instructions.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Yes, I still think that your vehicle's ECM/PCM has bad drivers in it. If you read what I sent last time, it says that when the ignition switch is turned to "start" and the ECM/PCM receives both CKP and CMP signals it will energize the ASD Relay, which your vehicle does, but the fuel injectors or ignition coils are not getting power, which only leaves the drivers from the ECM/PCM. You can have your vehicle's keys programmed to the new ECM/PCM either at the dealership or by a locksmith. There are no other options here.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros