Ignition control module

Tiny
WAYNE1994
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 230,000 MILES
Thanks for your advise last year. Truck ran great for 5 months, no problems what so ever. Until now. Would not start one morning, turned over just fine just not starting. Removed air cleaner, sprayer carb cleaner into intake (opened throttle plates) same results no change. Pulled ignition module, had tested at Advance, came back faulty. Replaced with new one one turn of key, same results, removed new module, had tested, faulty. Advance replaced, no charge. Installed replacement, after checking pick-up coil. Pick-up coil was bad also (burned areas). Installed new pick-up with new module, one turn of key. Module gone. I'm assuming there is too much current somewhere. 11.6volts going into external coil
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Thursday, May 23rd, 2013 AT 5:30 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
What engine? 11.6 isn't bad voltage should be around there. I f you go on site here and look under tune up it will cover how to diagnose your system. Pickup coils should be measured by resistance and make sure to put dielectric grease under module when replacing it.
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Friday, May 24th, 2013 AT 7:05 AM
Tiny
WAYNE1994
  • MEMBER
4.3L, TBI Yes I installed module with the dielectic grease. And I checked the pickup using an ohm meter thats how I Knew it was bad (not just by looking at it) I have the Haynes manual that I was referring to do some testing of pickup & external coil. I added the 11.6volts in my question just to let you know the results of in going voltage to coil thats all. Also checked the pigtail wiring going into module, found nothing shorted. Not blowing the ignition fuse at all (10amp)
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Friday, May 24th, 2013 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
I really dont' know what to tell you why the module keeps blowing unless there is abad ground between engine and battery. It really shouldn't do that. There are 4 different groups of modules though 2.2 is one and 4.3 has 3 depending on whether it's a p/u or utility the utility has 2 different ones one for stick and the other for automatic. If these are modules made in china that can be the problem. If they are name brand like standard, delco, or what Napa sells it should be ok. Btu everything form what you are telling me seem sto be ok so can't understand why the module is going out all the time.
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Friday, May 24th, 2013 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
WAYNE1994
  • MEMBER
Yes I agree with you, 2 of the modules were from Napa (Eclin brand) one was a cheaper AutoZone brand. I orignally thought that even though 11.6volts was going into coil, mabe the pigtail to module was getting too much voltage or something along that line. But I checked the coil at home referring to the Haynes manual. Then took it to Advance who also checked & got same results (good). The only thing, my 72 P/U years ago was burning up the electrode that touches the rotor buttom every 2 weeks, so I added another ground strap from engine to frame, solved that problem. Think this may be same, or similar. Searching for a ground?
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Friday, May 24th, 2013 AT 11:05 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
There should be the battery cable going to the engine and then another maybe form engine to firewall and another from body to battery. There should be grounds attached to back of each cylinder head. And battery to lower right of engine.
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Friday, May 24th, 2013 AT 12:13 PM
Tiny
WAYNE1994
  • MEMBER
Well of course the one from battery to engine I saw (bolted to block) one more I saw (smaller) connected to chasis. But I don't recall one from motor to frame or firewall. Simple enough to add a couple more, which I'll do before trying this rebuilt distributor I picked up. Wasn't that much more money than a good module. If that doesn't get it running, guess I'll let it sit for awhile, walk away for a bit, mabe something will come to mind that I missed. Hey thanks for taking the time to respond. Its appreciated.
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Friday, May 24th, 2013 AT 12:32 PM

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