Horn is staying on, horn relay location needed

Hi,

As far as the removable steering wheel, I'm not sure what was done. However, the horn relay is under the hood fuse/relay box.

If you look below, I attached the wiring schematic for the horn circuit. I highlighted the relay. I had to cut the pic in half to make it readable, but I did overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

As far as the relay, here is how it works. The body control module, BCM, controls the horn operation. When the horn switch is pressed, it closes a switch pulling the horn signal circuit low. When the BCM detects the drop in voltage in the horn switch signal circuit, it energizes the printed circuit board, PCB, horn relay which provides B+ voltage to the horn control circuit, sounding the horn.

Now here is the bad news. If the relay is bad, it isn't serviceable. The relay box will need to be replaced. So, we need to be sure that is the issue.

Here is what I recommend: First, scan the can bus system. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, a few wires tie together all the modules/computers. By scanning the CAN, you will be able to identify where the problem is coming from. You should get a code. It will not be the typical "P" code, but rather a "B" code. Here is a quick video showing the CAN being scanned:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Once you get that, go through the diagnostics I provided below starting with the third pic.

Here is a link you may find helpful when testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Take care and let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

The only fuses/relays are the ones in the schematic. The code you indicated is for the horn circuit. It is for a short to either power or ground. Something has to be shorted.

Is your scanner able to scan the entire can-bus system?

If you look at the attachments below, they are the diagnostics for the horn (B2750). Take a look through them and see if anything is helpful.

Let me know.

Take care,
Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

Are the wires you mentioned after the clock spring? I'm not sure what was done to modify the steering wheel. As far as the items mentioned not working, the clock spring could certainly cause it.

If you are checking for power after the clock spring and there is no power, it sounds like the spring is the problem. You would have to go back further and check for power to the clock spring.

I attached two pics below. I need you to check pin 1 in the clock spring connector for power and pin 2 for continuity to ground.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

The.08 indicates less resistance, but I don't see how that would cause the horn to blow. Is the horn before or after the clock spring? Sorry, I'm trying to envision what was done.

Joe

Hi,

Are you getting power both before and after the clock spring? If you have it before and not after, chances are the spring is bad.

As far as the horn, is there power to pin 1? If there isn't, check ignition 1 fuse. If it is good, confirm there is power to it via that fuse. Take a look at the first wiring schematics I sent. They should help.

Joe

You are very welcome, but you did it not me. You're the man. LOL Since there is likely no airbag with the different steering wheel, that should make it easier. However, I added the directions below in the event you need them.

Take care of yourself and if you have a chance, let me know the final results.

Joe

See pics below.

You are very welcome. I'm glad to hear it's back together and working.

Please feel free to come back any time in the future if you need anything. You're always welcome here.

Take care and enjoy the horn. LOL

Joe