Alot of the things your mechanic did could have fixed the problem. That is a problem when you are just guessing at what is wrong.
First thing, do you have the sedan or coupe? Which engine? Just 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder will do after you say coupe or sedan.
If I understand your problem, it idles rough, and is slow to aclerate off of idle, but once you get it going, it runs good? If that is your problem, then it really doesnt sound like an ignition problem unless maybe there is some added resistance in some connections that the higher rpm voltage can over come (Probably not). Your car probably does have a distributor cap, and if there are some bad connections where the rotor sends the spark to the cap, it may give the symptoms you descride. I would have thought the mechanic would have checked this as one of the first things to check. Have uit checked, and replaced if it looks bad, and then move on to what else could cause this problem.
What it sounds like is that your fuel supply at idle is not being correctly controlled. Once you get out of the idle mode, it runs good from there.
I would see if your mechanic, or another mechanic can connect a fuel pressure gauge inline in the fuel delivery system and see exactly what the fuel pressure is doing when it is giving you trouble. Maybe you have a fuel injector that is delivering too much fuel, and making the car rich at idle, but as you get some speed, it needs more fuel so it runs better. When your mechanic replaced your spark pulgs, were any showing signs of burning rich? Maybe a little blacker than the others, or possibly fouled some?
A bad PGM-FI main relay is usually a cause of the engine cutting off, but I can theroize a remote crazy senario in which it could cause this problem. I only through that out as a really remote possiblity.
Tuesday, August 1st, 2006 AT 3:58 PM