Ignition Problems, no spark?

"A" is the positive side of the ignition coil. When you look at the coil you will see two wires going to it. The 'A' terminal is the lower stepped lead.

I would follow up with an ICM(igniter) test. I know you said you swapped icm's but you may have an open wire somewhere and this diag. procedure will ensure the circuit is functioning.

If the coil and ICM are fine, I will then post up a wiring schematic for the distributor where you can check all the proper signals, powers and grounds. And if that is all there then it's most likely a non-serviceable sensor inside the distributor which means you will have to replace the distributor.

But test the ignitor first. Make sure all connections are tight, check fuses, make sure the cap and rotor are in good shape and the wires are properly connected. Then re-check spark. Make sure when you check spark you GROUND the spark plug or whatever you are using to test spark with.

Have you tried replacing the whole distributor?

Are you getting an injector pulse? Have you checked all your fuses?

Does your alarm have an ignition cut-off?

Please answer all these questions.

Hi tywi219,

At the distributor coupler, are you getting voltage to the Black/Yellow wire with ignition ON?

Does the Check Engine Light goes off after 2 seconds when ignition is turned to ON?

Since engine has just been replaced, is the ground wire at the thermostat housing securely tightened?

Hi there, make sure that you still have fuel pressure, injection pulse, check the leads are correct and the timing is OK, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)

Disconnect the coil wire from the distributor and ground it have helper to crank it over -do you have spark, if so replace the distributor cap and rotor if not do below

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM, Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it