1995 Honda Civic not getting fuel to cylinders

Tiny
JABREPA
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 155,000 MILES
Long story short, cranks, but won't start. Tries to fire when starting fluid sprayed in throttle body. Getting spark to plugs. Getting fuel to injector assembly, changed fuel relay but have to jumper to get fuel pump to run, not getting any voltage at injector, all fuses appear good. ECM is good. The only thing left that I can think of is the ignition switch. Could that be it or have any other ideas? Thanks!
Friday, March 14th, 2008 AT 3:29 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
To see if the injector is firing test it with a noid light. If you have spark why are you changing the distributer? This sounds like a fuel pump or fuel filter issue. Test the fuel pressure and make sure it is up to spec.
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Saturday, March 15th, 2008 AT 5:03 AM
Tiny
JABREPA
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  • 9 POSTS
It was the coil in the distributer. Replaced whole distrib with one that worked and fired right up! Man did I learn quickly how to troubleshoot this car!
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Saturday, March 15th, 2008 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
JABREPA
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Why I spoke to soon. I also misunderstood what the guy that was working on the car said. It wasn't the coil it was the ignition control module. And several hours later I went out to start the car and it was doing the exact same thing as before. Rolling over and no fuel pump coming on. Hadn't checked it yet, but if it is the control module again, is there any causes that anyone knows of that would cause the control module to fail with the car sitting there with key off? Don't want to have to keep buying these $80 dollar parts to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance for any help!
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Saturday, March 15th, 2008 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
 If you keep changing parts that you do not test and confirm to be bad you will indeed spend a lot of money fixing this car.  Test the fuel pressure! If you are getting spark it is not the ignition control module, it is a fuel delivery issue. Just because you have fuel to the fuel rail does not mean that the fuel is getting into the cylinder.   Do not shoot in the dark--test the items you suspect to be bad. If you cannot test these items autozone can test most of the ignition parts.
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Sunday, March 16th, 2008 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
JABREPA
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  • 9 POSTS
Today I was thinking it might be in the ignition switch so I turned the key to the on position and was jiggling key around and I heard the fuel pump kick on. I rotated it to start, it started. But I couldn't duplicate this. Ok, then later I turned the key to on and left it and was doing something at my bench and I heard the fuel pump kick on about 90 seconds later! Turned the key to start, started. Tried this a few times while counting. Each time I would turn the key to on and count until the fuel pump kicked on. Turned key back off, back on and count again. Each time the time would decrease until the fuel pump kicked on. I'm thinking that it is taking this much time to heat the coil up in the main relay that closes the contact to fire the fuel pump/ecm & ignitors. So I'm thinking bad contact in ignition switch. Any thoughts?
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Monday, March 17th, 2008 AT 1:38 AM
Tiny
BLUCIVIC01
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Ok. I'm not a whiz or anything but. Wouldn't u only get power to the injectors when it's running? And second if u have to "jumper" anything wouldn't that be considered faulty? Sounds to me like it's your fuel pump. It might require some heavy lifting (if it has any fuel in it) but if it takes that long to "kick in" then it's trying to go out and not pumping "new" fuel to the injectors untill it finally does kick in. Does it start once the f/p kicks in?
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Monday, March 31st, 2008 AT 1:55 PM
Tiny
JABREPA
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Well the power to the injectors I'm talking about is the #3 terminal on the main relay which goes to injectors and ECU has 12 volts. The problem seems to be in the main relay pin 8 is not beng grounded by the ECU which would give a current path to the coil that picks up the power to the fuel pump thru pin #7. The guy at Teggar. Com thinks it's a bad ECU. I'm getting one off EBAY and I'll see if that fixes it. (I did test the voltage at the MAP sensor with the key on and I did get 5 volts) But still I'll try a different ECU. If it's not that I guess I'll put it back on EBAY. LOL
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Monday, March 31st, 2008 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
PEAR69
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Make sure all the grounds on the engine are clean and good ( no corrosion ). Especialy the one that feeds the ECM. A ground can get OVER LOADED just like a hot wire. A corroded ground will over load the circuit.
You are correct, the ECM controls the ground. There is voltage to the injector all the time--even if the engine is not running--as long as the key is on.

Did you test for spark? Did you test the injector with a NOID light? Like I suggested?
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Monday, March 31st, 2008 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
PEAR69
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No! Wait a minute. Why don't you just change the whole engine and wiring harness along with the computer. Yea--that will solve it.
Please listen---start from the beginning with the basics. It'll be much easier and cheaper--or--just keep changing things and a couple thousand dollars later you'll get it and you can say I finally fixed it. OR you can properly trouble shoot--find the problem-- fix it and say I'm a mechanic that fixed a mechanical failure in my 1995 civic. Who's next!
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Monday, March 31st, 2008 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
JABREPA
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  • 9 POSTS
Took the ECU apart and found a burnt resistor or diode. (Not sure what you call it) Put in another ECU that I got on EBAY and now everything is great. Starts normal and runs great. Thanks for everyone's input.
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Sunday, April 6th, 2008 AT 9:28 AM

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