1995 Honda Civic 95 Civic won't start

Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 20,500 MILES
Hello,
I have a 1995 Honda civic with 205,000 miles. It died while accelerating from a stoplight after a bog cond. I have maintained the car its entire life. Timing belts done regularly, etc.
I have spent 2 days during diagnostics and here is what I have. I have spark, I ohmed out the Dist which checked ok, but I replaced anyway just in case. I have good blue spark at all 4 plugs. I have fuel and fuel pressure. I removed the fuel rail with the 4 injectors and cranked the engine over, got a pulse of fuel from all 4 injectors. I reset timing and valve clearances. I have 150 PSI compression in all 4 holes. I have no codes stored in the computer and even hung test a known good computer. The Map sensor voltages are good. The main tested good on the bench and I get all 3 clicks when I am supposed. I tested the ignition switch and it tested good. I tried starting fluid and did not even get a try. New plugs, wires and cap just for good measure. I am stumped, any ideas.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 2:55 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Hi there BigAl70 and TY for the donation

Remove the distributor cap and crank engine over engine over is the rotor turn-sounds like the valve and ignition timing is off-You got spark, fuel and good compression all you need now is the proper firing sequence.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
BIGAL70
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Yes, Rotor is turning, I checked cam timing, I replaced the timing belt and tensioner about 20k ago. When I put the new dist in, I did it with 1 at TDC. I even rechecked to make sure that I was not 180 out.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:24 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
I did it with 1 at TDC.

Were both the valves on no.1 fully closed when you put it on compression stroke and line the markings on the damper/scale TDC/0 deg?
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Rotor pointing to no.1 cap tower
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
Yes, #1 piston at TDC, plug out and verifyed, harmonic balacer at timing mark, valve cover off, all valved closed, rotor is pointing to #1 cap tower.
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-1
Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Did you feel for compression on no.1 before the piston is coming up on compression stroke and verify that both valves are close and then set the camshaft on its markings.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
Yes, The car was running great. When I accelerated from a stop light it bogged and died and has not started since. The timing was set prior to it breaking. I ohmed out the sensors in the dist and they were good, I had spark with the old dist but htought that the ICM could be sending a wrong signal so I replaced the Dist, I still have spark. The cam timing has not been disturbed since the car quit.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
You need to re-verify the valve and ignition timing something is not right-Again you got compression, fuel and spark as stated earlier.
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Sunday, November 15th, 2009 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
Timing verified and is on the money. Timing was good when the car quit. Something fried to make car quit.
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Monday, November 16th, 2009 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
I have fuel and fuel pressure. Did you check the actual fuel pressure with a gauge if so what was the reading?
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Monday, November 16th, 2009 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
Yes with a gauge, I have a little nickel gauge mounted on the top of the fuel filter. I noticed today that it was bleeding off after the 2 second fuel pump run on the start sequence. It was holding 40 psi bleeding down to 20 psi. I ordered a fuel pressure regulator today and a main relay for good measure. I crimped the return hose on the bottom of the regulator and pressure shot up to 60 psi. I'll let you know if the regulator fixes it.
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Monday, November 16th, 2009 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
While waiting for the new fuel pressure regulator I went to the junkyard and got one. I put it on and it did the exact same thing as the one I have now. Obiviously the car isn't running to check it properly but this is the idication that I am getting. Turn key on fuel pump runs 2 secs pressure goes up to 40 psi then bleeds off to 15 psi as soon as the pump turns off. The fuel bleeds theu the return line at the bottom of the regulator and not thru an injector. My questions is this: Isn't the regulator supposed to maintain the fuel pressure in the rail at 40 PSI even when the fuel pump is not running? The other check that I did was to crimp the return line and pressure held at 50 PSI. The minute I let the clamp off it bleed to 15 PSI. Do I have another bad regulator?
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Thursday, November 19th, 2009 AT 10:19 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Could be leaky fuel pump check valve or injector/s
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Thursday, November 19th, 2009 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
Would a fuel pump check valve cause the fuel to bleed from the rail via the return line on the regulator? Do I need to replace the pump to replace the check valve?
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Thursday, November 19th, 2009 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
BIGAL70
  • MEMBER
Well thanks for the help, turned out to be a compund problem. The fuel pressure regulator was bad, would not hold pressure in the rail, bleed off to 15 psi over a 1 second. A new dist tributor rotor turned out to be shorting out inside the cap. As long as the plug as on the valve cover without compression against it, there was spark. The minute the plug went in the hole, no spark! I have seen this before but the spark was so strong testing it that I did not look that hard at it.
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Sunday, November 29th, 2009 AT 7:03 AM

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