How do I bleed the brakes?

Tiny
EOYER
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 30,000 MILES
I got my pads replaced and the rear rotors turned. Now the brake pedal is softer than before -- I have to push it down further to stop. Is this normal?
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Sunday, August 16th, 2009 AT 8:45 AM

22 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi eoyer,

If the fluid were replaced, it would be normal for the pedal to feel softer. Here is a video and guide below to help you bleed the brake system correctly.

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

and

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2009 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
ROBINSAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 8,200 MILES
I was told that I need brake fluid and coolant installed by the Service REp as I was making an appt to bring the car in for an oil change. He says that it was a note on my last service which was in 11/08 at that time I had a complete front brake job which cost me approximately 700.00. I bought the Used car in 2007. This service will cost me 98.00 each. I have had my car serviced regular there since it was purchased. No one ever told me that brake pads were worn until they were completely gone and caused another problem. I am upset at these surprised services. I have owned 3 Honda Accords in the past. Bought 2 that were new. Currently the 3rd is the first used car I have ever owned. I feel like I am being taken advantage of as a femalle. My question is. Are these services neccessary? I have never had to add coolant to my past cars. Is there a leak in the radiator?
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

They may be referring to the periodical flushing of the brake fluid and the coolant, this is a standard service item the brake fluid should be flushed and re newed as it is hygroscopic, that is it attracts moisture and this moisture in the fluid can case brake fade and if left it can also start to case rust, the coolant also brakes down over a period of time and should also be flushed and re newed, this is not mandatory but it is advisable to have it done.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BETSYLOA
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 40,331 MILES
Honda says I need to flush the brake system. Other Accord owners, even with older models, say they have never done that. Honda says every seven years, no matter the mileage. With only 41,500 miles do I really need to do this on my 2006 Accord? They also say I need to "Service Automatic Trans, Minor*Autom." This seems like something I should do. Any help will be appreciated.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Every manufacturer specifies flushing the brake fluid, ... And yes, no one does it. That's because the hydraulic systems cause so few problems, we ignore them. Every manufacturer specifies oil change intervals too, but I haven't changed the oil in my '88 Grand Caravan in over 12 years. That proves I'm ignorant, stupid, cheap, or I know something else. It does not prove the manufacturer's recommendations are wrong or frivolous.

Brake fluid boils at well over 400 degrees F, but it also loves water. It will absorb moisture out of the air if you leave the reservoir cap off. That's why all containers of brake fluid tell you to keep them tightly sealed. That moisture will also get in through leakage under the rubber bladder seal under the reservoir cap. Most experts also say moisture is going to sneak in through the rubber flex hoses because rubber is porous.

Regardless of how the moisture gets in there, it is going to lower the boiling point of the fluid to 212 degrees F. It is real common and easy for brake parts to get hotter than that. The water will vaporize, and since a gas can be compressed, you will develop one type of brake fade that results in a low and mushy brake pedal.

The second problem is that moisture promotes corrosion of metal parts in the hydraulic system. That's why we see rusted steel lines that are still coated in rust-proofing material. The lines rusted from the inside. To add validity to this story, all experienced brake system specialists know to never push a brake pedal more than half way to the floor when bleeding or adjusting the brakes. Crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves of the bores in the master cylinder where the pistons don't normally travel. That is not a problem yet on a car that's less than about one year old, but after that, running the brake pedal all the way to the floor runs the lip seals over that corrosion and rips them. That results in a slowly-sinking brake pedal but it might not show up for a few days.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIREDOG6204
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 35,000 MILES
My brakes feel a little soft when I apply them. I know I need to bleed them but do I need a scanning tool to do that?
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MEMBER
Brake System Bleeding

NOTE:Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened container.
Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add fluid as required.
Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A).
Attach a length of clear drain tube to the bleed screw.
Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely.
Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown below until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE:
Fig. 12: Bleeding Brake In Sequence
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_bleed_3.jpg

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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KENDALL43
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA ACCORD
How do I bleed the brakes, and what type fluid
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

To bleed brakes the first thing to do if you can is to syringe out the old brake fluid in the reservoir, and clean the inside of the bowl with brake clean or a bit of metho on a rag, top up the fluid with DOT3 spec brake fluid. Use a jar with a small amount of brake fluid in it and attach a suable length of clear hose to the bleeder and place the other end in the jar, crack open the bleeder and have someone slowly pump the pedal, watch the fluid and when it runs clean hold down the pedal and lock off the bleeder, start at the rear and then do the fronts, also make sure that the reservoir dose not run dry as this will cause air to enter the system, check the fluid level every 3-4 pumps.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_hon_3.jpg

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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERRYLH13
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA ACCORD
  • 16,900 MILES
Tried to bleed but it wont all the others did
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
Make sure there is fluid in the master cylinder, and try blowing the brake line and hose out. See if the bleeder screw is plugged.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERRYLH13
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much for yourquick response. Unfortunatly I looked at master cylinder and the first hole that puts fluid out, well no fluid was going out it. The fluid that had came out previously was what was already in line.I had to buy a new master cylinder. And thank god that it now works and I have brakes.I very much apprieciate your help. Thanks terry
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
My pleasure. Be sure to tell your friends about us.

Closing thread.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGRED08046
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 51,000 MILES
Tried to bleed system and jumped out the ABS motor relay opened bleed valve and motor just spins. Loosened the high presssure side and was looking for fluid none. Pumped motor still none. Sent pump assembly to rebuilder and they said nothing wrong! Reistalled tried with keys on and off car running or not running. Still no fluid comes out with high side loose. Maybe rebuilder is wrong?
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi bigred08046,

If no pressure is present at bleeder hole when motor is running, the valve is not working. The rebuilder ishould have checked for pump pressure. Bleeding can be done off the car as the assy is self contained.

If pump is now in vehicle, try this method.

When valves works and pressure is felt, the motor operating noise would be different. If motor runs free with minimal noise, valves are not working.

Fill up fluid, release bleeder nut, operate motor intermittently. Wait till fluid comes out of bleeder nut and tighten. Top up fluid and operate motor again.

If the above fails, you need to remove the pump assy.
Loosen motor bolts, 2 of them and pull pump out of seats slightly and shake it then operate motor. Bleeder nut should be released, use long rubber hose with container on bleeder nut to prevent fluid from spraying all over.

When pressure is felt at bleeder nut, retighten motor and bleed again. Do not operate motor for too long, it will be hot.
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGRED08046
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 52,000 MILES
How the heck do I bleed the ABS system. Hooked up a hand vacuum pump and northin came out! I sent ABS out to be repaired and it came back nothing wrong! Checked all 4 wheels and the sensors check out good. This car only has 51000 miles. For good luck I replaced the master cylinder too!
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi bigred08046,

Brake system and ABS are separate and yu need to bleed the braske syatem through normal means.

ABS you need to use the motor to bleed. Remove ABS main relay and apply battery current to pump for a few seconds. Release the bleeder nut at pump assy and tighten. Repeat till no air is present, remember to keep topping up. CAUTION : HIGH PRESSURE
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STN888
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 158,000 MILES
Could someone please let me know how to change brake fluid on my 91 honda Accord EX-R? At least several years it has never been changed.
Thanks in advance
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi stn888,

1. Use a syringe to suck out all the fluid in the master cylnder reservoir and clean the reservoir.
2. Top up with new fluid.
3. Start from rear right wheel, front left, rear left wheel and front right wheel, do bleeding till new fluid comes out. Remember to top up while bleeding to avoid fluid getting too low
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Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)

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