2000 Honda Accord Temperature Gauge

Tiny
BIGDWIL
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 93,000 MILES
My 2000 Honda accord has 93,000 miles on it. The other day I looked down and the temperature gauge was in the extreme "HOT" position. I stopped the car and opened the hood. Nothing. The engine was only the normal heated. Coolant was OK and everything. What might be the problem?
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Thursday, January 8th, 2009 AT 12:48 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi bigdwil,

Were the radiator and condenser fans working?
Did you check the coolant level in radiator?

It could be a faulty thermostat or sending gauge.
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Sunday, January 11th, 2009 AT 9:52 AM
Tiny
BIGDWIL
  • MEMBER
Yes, the coolant levels are correct and the thermostat was just replaced a month ago. The fans are both working when the AC is on and cycle when the car gets hotter.
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Sunday, January 11th, 2009 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi bigdwil,

If the fans cycle on and off while the temp is showing hot, the engine is not overheating but rather an inaccurate reading. Hope the following test helps.

Coolant Temperature Gauge Needle Goes Past the Hot Mark

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect ECM/PCM connector C (31P).

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the coolant temperature gauge.
Does the temperature gauge needle move at all ? (you may have to watch it for about 30 seconds.)
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.

3. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it ON (II) again, and watch the coolant temperature gauge.
Does the temperature gauge needle immediately go past the Hot mark?
YES - Replace the fuel and temperature gauge assembly.
NO - The temperature gauge needle went past the Hot mark after about 30 seconds or more. Go to step 4.

4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the gauge assembly connector C.

5. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal C24 and gauge assembly connector terminal C2.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_ECM_PCM_C31_00Accord_1.jpg



Is there continuity ?
YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM connector terminal C24 and gauge connector terminal C2.
NO - Replace the fuel and temperature gauge assembly.

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Monday, January 12th, 2009 AT 7:19 AM
Tiny
CPCHANGSTER
  • MEMBER
Where is ECM/PCM Connector C (31P) and Gauge Connector C (16P)?
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Saturday, May 8th, 2010 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The PCM connector is the wireharness that is plugged into the PCM.

Likewise the gauge connector is behind the meter cluster.
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Sunday, May 9th, 2010 AT 6:04 AM
Tiny
CPCHANGSTER
  • MEMBER
Do I have to take apart the dash and instrument panel to access the gauge connector? Or else how do I access it?
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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 1:19 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Yes, you need to remove the instrument panel and meter cluster to get at the gauge connector.
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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
CPCHANGSTER
  • MEMBER
So for the final step.

Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM connector terminal C24 and gauge connector terminal C2.
NO - Replace the fuel and temperature gauge assembly.

I am not getting continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal C24 and gauge connector terminal C2.

So, doesn't that mean that the wire has a break in it? Not sure I understand why then it's a problem with the fuel and temperature gauge?

Can anyone help explain that for me?

Thanks!
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Tuesday, May 11th, 2010 AT 2:03 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
There is a mistake in the information and I don't how the error came about and would like to apoogise for the mistake.

Here is the updated diagnostic procedures.

Coolant Temperature Gauge Needle Goes Past Hot Mark (4-Cylinder)

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM/PCM 31-pin connector "C". Turn ignition on. Observe coolant temperature gauge for at least 30 seconds. If coolant temperature gauge needle moves at all, go to next step. If coolant temperature gauge needle does not move, replace ECM/PCM with known-good ECM/PCM and retest gauge operation.

2. Turn ignition off, then turn ignition on again. Observe coolant temperature gauge. If coolant temperature gauge takes less than 30 seconds to go past hot mark, replace fuel and temperature gauge assembly. If coolant temperature gauge takes 30 seconds or more to go past hot mark, go to next step.

3. Turn ignition off. Pull out instrument cluster. Disconnect instrument cluster 16-pin connector "C". Check continuity between ground and ECM/PCM connector "C" terminal No. 24 (Yellow/Green wire). See Fig. 14. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Yellow/Green wire between ECM/PCM and instrument cluster. If continuity does not exist, replace fuel and temperature gauge assembly.
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Tuesday, May 11th, 2010 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
CPCHANGSTER
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Your updated diagnostic procedure is the same as the previous one.

So, I'm still confused.

If there is no continuity, why should you replace the fuel/temperature gauge? Doesn't no continuity mean there's a problem with the connecting wire?

Thanks.
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Tuesday, May 11th, 2010 AT 12:16 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
No, it is different.

Check for continuity between ground and PCM Treminal 24 with the meter cluster disconnected. If there is no continuity, it means the wire is not shorted to ground and the gauge is faulty.

If you test the continuity between the PCM (24 )and gauge ( connector (2) there should be continuity.
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Tuesday, May 11th, 2010 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
CPCHANGSTER
  • MEMBER
Ah, got it. Thanks for the reply! Appreciate it. I mis-read that.

Got a question, might be a dumb question, but I'm still a newbie at all of this.

I know how to check a wire for continuity with a multi-meter, but how do you check for continuity between a pin and ground?

Do you have to know where it might be grounded?

Thanks!
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Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Body ground means anything that is bolted onto the body so look for any bare metal, bolts or nuts etc near where you are doing the test.
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Thursday, May 20th, 2010 AT 8:51 AM
Tiny
CPCHANGSTER
  • MEMBER
Okay, there was no continuity between ground and PCM Terminal 24 with the meter cluster disconnected.

And I am getting continuity between the PCM (24) and gauge connector (2).

So, I guess that means the gauge is faulty?

But within the last week there have been 3 days that the gauge has worked correctly. But the other days, it has pegged high. And a few times, within the day, it has varied from working correctly to pegging high.

There has been 2 occasions that after I pulled on the wire (btwn PCM pin 24 and gauge connector pin 2), the gauge started working fine for several days.

So, could it still be a wiring problem?

Also, I checked the voltage with the ignition on and the connectors connected PCM (24), Gauge connector (2) and the voltage rotates quickly between values around 0.4V, 0.6V and 1.5V. Shouldn't the voltage be fairly steady?

Thanks!
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Saturday, May 22nd, 2010 AT 1:54 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
DVOM readings are seldom stable and it could fluctuate when there is a minimal difference in voltage or movement of the probes.

From the symptoms of intermittent working, it is a continuity problem and the more likely cause would be the PCM or gauge intenal circuits rather than any external wires.

Remove the gauge and if you have a soldering gun, resolder the gauge printed circuit board and retest.
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Saturday, May 22nd, 2010 AT 6:36 PM

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