2000 Honda Accord No communication in the car

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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I only have schematics with description of where the locations are and have emailed them to you.
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Thursday, July 22nd, 2010 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
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Let me ask you this what does a ground wire have to do with what happend when that 120A fuse blew up? I mean the car was running before that happend so it shouldnt be a ground wire, dont you think?
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 10:43 AM
Tiny
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When the battery was installed reversely, the ground wire would heat up and it could melt or break before the 12o A fuse blows. After the 120 A fuse blows, if the power was still not disconnected, power would continue to run through the ground cable through other components and this can cause it to be damaged.

There could be many other components that have been damaged as the original fuse was supposed to be 100 A and that would blow faster than a 120 A. The delay in the 120 A blowing would cause more damage.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
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But remember I told you that the fuse blew up while the car was running, so it couldnt be that the battery was put wrong.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
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Sorry for the error.

Definitely something shorted causing the 120A fuse to blow but before it occurred, the shorting had csused some damage to some wires somewhere and since problem seems like insufficient ground, they should be checked first.

You have replaced a lot of components and none of them seems to have any bearing on the problem.

You mentioned the alternator was new, it is OEM?

Have you tried using another alternator to test?
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
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Ok that makes better sense ill keep checking ground wires.
The alternator is new but its not oem it a rebuilt one, but when I first put the new one on it did the same so I took it to another place to have it checked and it came out as good.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 11:50 AM
Tiny
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I would not rule out the rebuilt alternator as the cause. I don't trust rebuilts as my personal experience is 3 rebuilts that did not work when installed.

Get the rebuilt people to give you another alternator to test.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
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Well I got it at autozone and they tested it twice first when I bought it and the second time after I took it of the car again
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
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The bench test would indicate if it is charging but not if the indicator lights would come on dimly.

Alternators can charge correctly but the indicator circuit could be faulty.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 12:11 PM
Tiny
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Is there anyway for me to check that?
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
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I have sent you the test procedures.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
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What if I just change the engine harness you think that would work?
Plus I dont think the alternator is the case because I put another one and it did the same thing so now I know for a fact that the alternator is not it.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
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It is never a good idea to replace any item without understanding what is wrong.

Go through the test that I sent to you and see if you can find anything.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
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The one for the alternator or the ground wire one?
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
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The black and yellow wire has.44 volts.

Also a week or two ago you sent me the same charging test but with more pages, about six to be exact. So when I do the first test it takes me to "fig.7: Alternator & Regulator Circuit Test" and then at the bottom is says "For alternator control system test, see fig.8 for 2.3L or Fig.9 for 3.0L" and it looks to me (but I might be mistaken) but im missing Fig.9 for my 3.0L, unless fig.8 is the same one but the plug on the 2.3L is square and the 3.0L is square with round edges.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 5:03 PM
Tiny
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Sorry for the error. I have sent the test for 3.0 to you.

You mentioned the Black/Yellow wire has 0.44 volts, it should be battery voltage. Seems the power supply for this wire is insufficient. It could be an open between fuse # 6 ( 15 A) to the alternator. Check the junction box below right side of dash to see if the connection is bad.
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2010 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
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Usually what should be the voltage on the black and yellow wire?
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2010 AT 12:28 PM
Tiny
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It should be battery voltage, ie more than 12 volts.
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2010 AT 12:54 PM
Tiny
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I think I made a mistake when I tested the voltage on that wire. Well this is what I got when I put the red wire from my volt tester on the positive of the battery which I did the opposite the first time I got 11.60V on the blk & Yellow wire. The first time I put the black one on the negative side of the battery. So with that now being right were are we at now?

Also I took the speedometer of the car because I wanted to see which wire was the one that send the signal to turn the battery light one. So I used a test light one a blk & yellow wire and the light for the battery get brighter so im giving in ground right? Also when the light gets brighter the open door and open trunk lights come on as well. I followed it down into the passenger fuse box under the dash and it had power. I also discovered a ground wire that wasnt hooked up but when I hooked it up it still did the same.

I'm a little confused when you told me to check the number 6 15A fuse on passenger side but its a 20A fuse and its says (LAF HEATER), I went to the driver side and there is a 15A fuse but its says ECU Cruise Control. So im a little lost right now.
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Wednesday, August 4th, 2010 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
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Did you perform test on Fig 6 and what were the results?

Fuse # 6 is if the voltage is wrong as initially stated.

The driver side fuse is the correct one. Apart from the alternator, cruise control, ELD, engine mount, EVAP and a few others.
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 8:46 AM

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