2000 Honda Accord No communication in the car

Tiny
DD_110588
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD

Electrical problem
2000 Honda Accord 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 9500 miles

To begin yes my car really has 9500 miles its been sitting for about 7 some years and im trying to get it running again and the problem im having is that I had the car running and the main battery fuse the 100A inside the engine compartment went out and ever since that ive been having problems with the alternator so I when ahead a bought a new one and its not charging and the battery light in the speedometer doesnt shut of but the light looks a little faded compared to the rest of the lights in the speedometer. Then I hooked a scanner to it and it only comes out with a transmission code which was fauty solenoid b which im still trying to fix. Then my other problem is that I unhooked alot of different plugs to see if anything came out in the scanner and nothing, no codes, so I changed the ECU thinking that was it because the main 2 wires that come from the alternator go to the ecu and its still the same. I also bought all 3 of the fuse boxes and its still the same no signal for the engine and ive almost gotten to the point to were im going to buy a new engine harness to see if thats it but I really dont want to because its expensive. So as you can see I need help badly so any help would be appreciated thanks.

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Monday, June 28th, 2010 AT 4:20 PM

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Tiny
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Hi dd_110588,

Thank you for the donation.

There is a possibility some wires are broken causing the condition. I have emailed the diagnostic procedures to you. Let me know if you do not receive them.

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Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Well im having a little trouble on the fig. 7 step10 and it says to check for continuity and the problem that im having is that I have a actron tester like the ones that they sell at your local auto parts store and it says that when checking for continuity the device will beap when the circiute is closed or shorted so when I check the white and green wire for it, it always beaps even when I put it on the other pin so thats where im having problems right now.

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Tuesday, July 20th, 2010 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
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I believe you are referring to Fig 8 and not Fig 7.

Did you unplug the PCM and alternator coupler while performing tests?

I would suggest using the resistance range to test instead of the beeper.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 10:43 AM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Ok ill try it but while I do that do you have any idea of whats going on with the rest of the car? The engine doesnt seem to be comunnicating with the ecm.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
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If the engine is not communicating with the ECM, you would not be able to start the engine.

Why do you say so?

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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I ask because I have a scanner and I unhook a couple of plugs just to make sure its communicating and it doesnt seem to be coming out with any codes so I though something might be wrong

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 12:24 PM
Tiny
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Some sensors requires a two trip malfunction to trigger any codes. Others would only indicate after the engine is started.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Well I just did the resistance check on the white and green wire and if I was looking for a number I got 0.03. So is that good or bad?

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
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Resistance check of 0.03 ohms means the continuity is good.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Ok if thats good and the alternator is good than what can it be?

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 2:08 PM
Tiny
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A faulty PCM can cause no charging.

With alternator pin # 2 ( White/Green wire ) removed and not conneted to system, start engine and test the charging.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Ok whats pcm? And how do I remove the pin without having to cut it off?

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
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PCM is the engine computer.

To remove the wire without cutting it off, at the connector, there is a white plastic inside the connector. Use a long nose plier or sharp object to gently pry it out.

With a sharp object, pry the locking tab inside the connector for the pin to be removed and you can pull the wire out from behiind.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 2:41 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Ok, but I replaced the engine computer for the same reason. I thought the computer was the problem, so I replaced it.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
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When testing the charging, were the battery mast voltage checkd?
Is the Charge indicator light showing?

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Well the light in the speedo is on and it turns of when I unhook the alternator cable, but the light looks faded like if some sort of ground wire not connected or it was missing something. And then all the other lights are all nice and shinny.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
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Are the symptoms exactly as before the alternator change?

The charge indicator light is linked to the Multiplex System and that should be checked as well.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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I first changed the alternator and it keep doing the samething, so thats when I decided to buy a new ecm or pcm and its still doing the same. So how can I check this Multiplex System? Now this all started when the main 120A battery got blown up, and I know it doesn't use a 120A so thats when I also changed the engine fuse box to the right one, and now it has the 100A fuse.

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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
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Let us review the problem to be sure we are on the same frequency.

When engine is running:

Charge indicator in dash is dimly lit?
What is charging voltage between battery post?
What is charging voltage between alternator main terminal and body ground?
All wires were tested to be good?

Alternator is new,

Did the 120 A fuse blow before or after alternator replacement?
Did main fuse blow because of reverse jumping of battery?

Have you check all the ground circuit connections?

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Thursday, July 22nd, 2010 AT 7:02 AM
Tiny
DD_110588
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Yes the light is dimli lit when the engine is on, and ill get back on the other ones. The 120V fuse blew before the alternator was changed. The car was runing and all of a sudden I heard the fuse blow up anf the car shut down and that is where it all started.

Not sure if I checked all the ground circuit connections, but can you send me a diagram of where there at so I can check them(that is if you have one)

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Thursday, July 22nd, 2010 AT 9:37 AM

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