Engine idles but will not accelerate

Tiny
STREATBEETZ23
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 137,000 miles.

The car fluctuates the idle when just sitting at normal operating temperature. But when you hit the throttle the car wants to shut off. Seems as if it is getting choked of air or fuel. What are steps to fix this problem?

When I had the intake manifold off I noticed an extreme amount of carbon but was like oily black stuff all inside it. I attempted to clean it but probably did no good but actually close up one or more pathways through the throttle body and intake manifold. Correct me if I am wrong but is the black oily matter not all on the inside a bad EGR valve?

Also, ran a OBDII on the car and the TPS faulted out. Idle still very erratic and also when I push the throttle to the floor you can hear the intake suck air and then the engine shuts off. Sometimes letting white smoke exit the intake but you can also tell the engine wants to stay running.

I have my thoughts that I need to clean the intake manifold and components really well and give it a good clean but wanted second opinion.

Also, form the reply above is it okay to use the carburetor cleaner on a fuel injected vehicle?
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 4:52 PM

51 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi streatbeetz23,

The idling system seems to be malfunctioning and the throttle position sensor as well.

I would suggest cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve. You can do so by using an aerosol spray carburetor cleaner.
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Monday, October 27th, 2008 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi streatbeetz23,

Carburetor cleaner is the general term used. Some are called throttle cleaners.

No, those oily black deposits are not due to a bad EGR. Even those without EGR system would have the same symptoms. Those are more likely to be caused by the PCV and blowby gases.

The throttle body is the more important area to clean. Manifold would get dirty in no time.

The scan showed a bad TPS so that is what you should be looking at regarding the stalling during acceleration.
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Tuesday, October 28th, 2008 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
STREATBEETZ23
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Okay, so after I kicked myself in the face dealing with the first issue I found that I mistakenly plugged the TPS connector on the MAP and vice-versa.

Man was I glad ran perfect for about a day or so that is.

So I had bad gas originally when I first came back from a deployment with a bad rear motor mount. Pulled off the back of the motor to access the mount and reinstalled. Incorrectly hooked up the TPS and MAP but corrected that problem.

After filling up the gas tank I got about a good ten to fifteen miles and all of a sudden the engine started to misfire.

I has new plugs, new distributor, new rotor, but same racing 10 mm plug wires, probably should change but does not show any signs of leaking. But throwing codes for all four cylinders misfiring and also P1399 which I have no idea what that is and also code P0300.

All four injectors are clicking, fuel pressure seems good, at idle you cannot tell but once the engine starts to pick up or you punch the throttle you can hear the severe hesitation.

Some ideas on how to fix also how I can find a vacuum leak if there is one?

Trying to so not pay for costly dealership repairs but I have came so long so far doing my own repairs just so stumped on this.

Is it possible the timing belt jumped?

Is it possible the TDC crankshaft sensor?

Need help and some step by step with some description how to troubleshoot if possible.
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Sunday, November 2nd, 2008 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi streatbeetz23,

P1399 = P0300. Random misfire. The vehicle is misfiring and it could be caused by
1. Spark plugs.
2. Plug Wires.
3. Distributor cap and rotor.
4. Injectors.
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
HERETOPOSTONEREPLY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Streatbeetz23, you just saved me. Spent a week off and on doing a head gasket swap and top-end cleanup on my 2000 Honda Accord SE 2.3L (f23a1). Mainly because I was losing fluids. It was my first head job ever so I was careful to write every step down, to not damage anything, etc. Cleaned intake and throttle body, injectors, emissions valve, etc. Replaced valve seals myself too. Changed fluids and did timing too. Pretty much tore it all down, cleaned everything (completely gunked up), replaced any gaskets I could, and put it back together (under $100 total including fluids).

All proud of myself, it was time for the moment of truth. Turned the key, pumped the gas. It ran. But way worse than before. Terrible idle, died repeatedly, kept cutting out when accelerating. I let it warm up and bled the fluid and such, then took it a mile down the road. Or should I say limped it. Finally made it back home. Tons of research and videos. Nothing quite fit, but could have been many things. Narrowed it down to most likely tps or map sensors. Then I read what you wrote. I simultaneously felt relief and like an idiot. Went outside, swapped the two plugs, started it up, and runs like a dream! I thought I was done for, as I can't afford to play the part swap game right now. You sir, are an unsung hero.
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Saturday, March 17th, 2018 AT 1:16 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,468 POSTS
Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, March 19th, 2018 AT 12:23 PM
Tiny
BEALLGWV
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 244,000 MILES
I was driving and the car has been acting weird. The first thing I noticed is when I would push the gas pedal hard it bogs down which reminded me of when I had a crack in the rubber air intake hose. Drove some more after getting gas went about 10 miles and it lost all power and stalled luckily its a manual so I got over to the side of the road safely. My mechanic replaced the EGR valve and now it starts but the engine bogs down a little before 2000 RPMS. My mechanic said it may have jumped time but unsure. The timing belt won't need replacing for another 35,000; the cap and rotor spark plugs and wires have been replaced a month ago. Replaced Coolant hose recently. Used seafoam to clean out the carbon because it was having problems for about a month with running. It would run fine just idle kind of low and not perform properly. Any ideas or suggestions? I have looked and seen people suggest fuel pressure and dirty intake manifolds, would that cause the engine to die so suddenly? It performed great and literally overnight the engine started having issues. I have sprayed with carb cleaner all the vacuum hoses and there are no leaks. HELP PLEASE :D
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like you have a plugged fuel filter here is a guide to help you change it out with diagrams below to show you on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-a-fuel-filter

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOOPERIII
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I changed the fuel filter all fixed.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OMEGA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 198,000 MILES
1999 Honda Accord 5 speed experiences a sudden loss of power, gauges drop to zero for a split second and come back. The other day it died on the road then came back to life 15 minutes later. Maybe related issue, the vent switches on dash, select the two on teh right, Defrost and another (can't remember now) and it turns on AC as well. Those switches are also not backlight at night with headlights on.

Mechanic looked for a grounding problem, couldn't find one, my daughter is afraid to drive it now.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Have the ignition switch checked. Symptom indicates a possible interruption of power supply. There was a safety recall on the ignition switch for the year model.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OMEGA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks! I'll have that checked. I was going to go thru all the fuses as well to see if there was a hairline crack in any. Though if it is the ignition I doubt that would be related to the vent controls and AC, maybe more than one problem ;-)
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
The ignition switch can affect the vents controls and A/C as it interrupts the power supply to them causing them to go haywire.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TONY01
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,000 MILES
Hello,
I have noticed a power loss when driving under wet conditions recently. I would happen randomly and then go away. This will last even after the car has been sitting for a while after driving through rain. I suspect the ignition system or the crank angle sensor which is a the bottom of the crank pulley. Perhaps water getting through the connector.
The car drives normally when dry and no check engine light.
Please advise. Thanks!
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,468 POSTS
Hello,

I think you hit it on the money with the ignitions system, I would install new spark plugs, wires cap and rotor.

Here is a guide to help you get the plugs changed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TONY01
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Hello Ken
I have previously replaced the wires and plugs not too long ago. I replaced the cap around two weeks ago. The main ignition coil sits on top of the transmission on this model. Any other suggestion? Have you seen this issue before on a car like mine?
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,468 POSTS
Not quite the same problem in the rain. Does the engine get wet because it rains so much? It could be the main ignition coil shorting out.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TONY01
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
No, just regular rain driving whithout driving through water puddles.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMC2011LM
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 232,341 MILES
I just changed the intake gasket set on a 1999 Honda Accord EX, the motor is a 2.3L4 I also replaced the sparkplug wires & sparkplugs with what it called for which is NGK & gapped them at.044. I changed vavle cover gasket, oil, & also added antifreeze. When I cranked it up it ran at about 900rpm & when you press the gas slowly it idles up to about 2000rpm & then bogs down & shuts off. So I went ahead & replaced the egr valve & it still does the same thing. I took the spark plugs out & checked them & they was a smutty black color on them. This is the second set of spark plugs that look like that. I undone the exaust pipe from the manifold & dropped it down thinking the converter was clogged up because it popped up a code saying the converter was effienency & then a undenified code which was P1259 before I even worked on it & it still does the same thing. Before I dropped the exhaust down, it had no pressure coming out the exhaust & was sucking in air more than blowing it out the exhaust. It has two o2sensors on it, 1 at the exhaust manifold & 1 on the converter. I dont know what is wrong. Is it possible it jumped time, it looks like the stock timing belt on it. Please help.
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure if its witin specs and then comeback with the readings-start here
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Thursday, February 21st, 2019 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)

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