Engine idles but will not accelerate

Tiny
STREATBEETZ23
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 137,000 miles.

The car fluctuates the idle when just sitting at normal operating temperature. But when you hit the throttle the car wants to shut off. Seems as if it is getting choked of air or fuel. What are steps to fix this problem?

When I had the intake manifold off I noticed an extreme amount of carbon but was like oily black stuff all inside it. I attempted to clean it but probably did no good but actually close up one or more pathways through the throttle body and intake manifold. Correct me if I am wrong but is the black oily matter not all on the inside a bad EGR valve?

Also, ran a OBDII on the car and the TPS faulted out. Idle still very erratic and also when I push the throttle to the floor you can hear the intake suck air and then the engine shuts off. Sometimes letting white smoke exit the intake but you can also tell the engine wants to stay running.

I have my thoughts that I need to clean the intake manifold and components really well and give it a good clean but wanted second opinion.

Also, form the reply above is it okay to use the carburetor cleaner on a fuel injected vehicle?
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 4:52 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi streatbeetz23,

The idling system seems to be malfunctioning and the throttle position sensor as well.

I would suggest cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve. You can do so by using an aerosol spray carburetor cleaner.
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Monday, October 27th, 2008 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi streatbeetz23,

Carburetor cleaner is the general term used. Some are called throttle cleaners.

No, those oily black deposits are not due to a bad EGR. Even those without EGR system would have the same symptoms. Those are more likely to be caused by the PCV and blowby gases.

The throttle body is the more important area to clean. Manifold would get dirty in no time.

The scan showed a bad TPS so that is what you should be looking at regarding the stalling during acceleration.
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Tuesday, October 28th, 2008 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
STREATBEETZ23
  • MEMBER
Okay, so after I kicked myself in the face dealing with the first issue I found that I mistakenly plugged the TPS connector on the MAP and vice-versa.

Man was I glad ran perfect for about a day or so that is.

So I had bad gas originally when I first came back from a deployment with a bad rear motor mount. Pulled off the back of the motor to access the mount and reinstalled. Incorrectly hooked up the TPS and MAP but corrected that problem.

After filling up the gas tank I got about a good ten to fifteen miles and all of a sudden the engine started to misfire.

I has new plugs, new distributor, new rotor, but same racing 10 mm plug wires, probably should change but does not show any signs of leaking. But throwing codes for all four cylinders misfiring and also P1399 which I have no idea what that is and also code P0300.

All four injectors are clicking, fuel pressure seems good, at idle you cannot tell but once the engine starts to pick up or you punch the throttle you can hear the severe hesitation.

Some ideas on how to fix also how I can find a vacuum leak if there is one?

Trying to so not pay for costly dealership repairs but I have came so long so far doing my own repairs just so stumped on this.

Is it possible the timing belt jumped?

Is it possible the TDC crankshaft sensor?

Need help and some step by step with some description how to troubleshoot if possible.
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Sunday, November 2nd, 2008 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi streatbeetz23,

P1399 = P0300. Random misfire. The vehicle is misfiring and it could be caused by
1. Spark plugs.
2. Plug Wires.
3. Distributor cap and rotor.
4. Injectors.
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
HERETOPOSTONEREPLY
  • MEMBER
Streatbeetz23, you just saved me. Spent a week off and on doing a head gasket swap and top-end cleanup on my 2000 Honda Accord SE 2.3L (f23a1). Mainly because I was losing fluids. It was my first head job ever so I was careful to write every step down, to not damage anything, etc. Cleaned intake and throttle body, injectors, emissions valve, etc. Replaced valve seals myself too. Changed fluids and did timing too. Pretty much tore it all down, cleaned everything (completely gunked up), replaced any gaskets I could, and put it back together (under $100 total including fluids).

All proud of myself, it was time for the moment of truth. Turned the key, pumped the gas. It ran. But way worse than before. Terrible idle, died repeatedly, kept cutting out when accelerating. I let it warm up and bled the fluid and such, then took it a mile down the road. Or should I say limped it. Finally made it back home. Tons of research and videos. Nothing quite fit, but could have been many things. Narrowed it down to most likely tps or map sensors. Then I read what you wrote. I simultaneously felt relief and like an idiot. Went outside, swapped the two plugs, started it up, and runs like a dream! I thought I was done for, as I can't afford to play the part swap game right now. You sir, are an unsung hero.
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Saturday, March 17th, 2018 AT 1:16 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, March 19th, 2018 AT 12:23 PM

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